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Oasisbob

Portland Oregon 97266

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Posted: 08/31/19 11:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Overpasses are what? 14? That should be ample. Hope your rig is nowhere near that tall.


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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 08/31/19 11:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Unmarked overpasses, tunnels and bridges are 19 feet. Anything under has to be marked. There are many that are under 14 feet


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midnightsadie

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Posted: 08/31/19 01:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

and get more than one bid for this job.

Chum lee

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Posted: 08/31/19 01:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"He suggested going 14 foot side wall and using a scissor truss, for more room in the center.

My building can only be 14 feet wide due to space limits."

IMO, the scissor truss is a good idea. Light frame (2" x 4") trusses should be fine.

As long as you have no height limits, you could go as steep as a 12:12 roof pitch (custom truss) which would put your top of roof (exterior) at about 14 + 7 = 21 feet. With a 14 foot span, the scissor depth would only need to be about 18 inches which would give you about 18'-6" inside clearance at the center of the span. Less at the sides. (tapering down to about 14' at the plate line)

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JRscooby

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Posted: 08/31/19 02:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Johno02 wrote:

Consider digging out a lowered ramp and pit inside the building, instead of raising the building. You could lower it enough that the floor would be a walkin from ground level.


The floor should always be higher than the ground around it. Otherwise you will have something that resembles a medieval security system for the RV.

memtb

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Posted: 08/31/19 02:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hondapro, We built a pole barn for our 5er and other equipment and went 16 foot sidewalls, with 14x14 roll-up doors and don’t regret it a minute. In fact, our 5er just clears the roll-up door when fully raised.

I highly recommend considering the advice that I failed to follow. “Figure out what you need and then double it”! We built our “first one”, 32’x48’ with 16’ walls. We just built our second pole barn 2 summers ago, 30’x40’ with 12’ sidewall.....already wish we’d gone bigger and taller! memtb


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sayoung

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Posted: 08/31/19 07:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

memtb wrote:

hondapro, We built a pole barn for our 5er and other equipment and went 16 foot sidewalls, with 14x14 roll-up doors and don’t regret it a minute. In fact, our 5er just clears the roll-up door when fully raised.

I highly recommend considering the advice that I failed to follow. “Figure out what you need and then double it”! We built our “first one”, 32’x48’ with 16’ walls. We just built our second pole barn 2 summers ago, 30’x40’ with 12’ sidewall.....already wish we’d gone bigger and taller! memtb

Allways build for the next rv or the next owner if you have the room. I built ours using steel, 20x45x15 . I wanted longer but would have had to cut down some old pecan trees. Skirted it 3ft down on 3 sides and open on the end I back into. Maybe one day enclose it and add door.
Also why spend the money for a truss on a 14 ft wide building ? Cut a steep pitch rafter and use a collar tie . Even a 12/12 pitch the rafter would only be 9ft 10 3/4 in .

* This post was edited 08/31/19 07:14pm by sayoung *

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 08/31/19 07:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't know what kind of snow load or winds you get. Make sure whoever builds or designs it takes this into consideration.

valhalla360

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Posted: 09/01/19 12:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

Johno02 wrote:

Consider digging out a lowered ramp and pit inside the building, instead of raising the building. You could lower it enough that the floor would be a walkin from ground level.


The floor should always be higher than the ground around it. Otherwise you will have something that resembles a medieval security system for the RV.


If done right, flooding won't be an issue but that presumes the whole structure (including lower floor is well above the surrounding land).

The real issue is now you can't access anything underneath...
- Want to grease the wheel bearings...so much for doing it inside out of the weather.
- Need to fix an electrical glitch...so much for doing it inside out of the weather.
- How wide would this slot be? If it's real tight, do you scrape the RV along the side if you get the slightest bit out of line? Or if you make it wide, do you fall into the gap or when something falls into the gap...

Assuming no major issues, go with a taller building.
- Make sure the height is referenced to the door opening (roll up garage doors often eat up a foot or so of space).
- Make sure the approach is relatively flat. If there is a substantial hill with a breakover angle, you might have enough height based on a level condition but the front or back might hit when the RV is out of level.

I would also go at least 20ft wide. You know you will want to store other things and this also allows room to open the slides.

I don't know if I would go 4' above 14' (ie 18' tall). That's getting really tall (pretty much 2 story house tall). It will likely come with a significant cost increase. How many times a year do you go up on the roof? For a couple times a year, I can step over the trusses.


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hondapro

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Posted: 09/01/19 04:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the advice,I will talk with my contractor again.


Steve
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