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 > 2000 Bigfoot 10.6 Electrical Upgrade/Solar Advice

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VehicleTrader94

Texas

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Posted: 10/02/19 03:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll: The thought process on the adjustable is that it if fine tuning is needed I have the capability to do so. Better to have it if needed rather than the other way around.

Other than time to charge is there any benefit to the 75amp? It's only $10 more. Are there any drawbacks to the 75amp? My understanding is it can charge up to that amount but that does not mean it will.


1988 Bigfoot C-11.5 on a 2002 F-350 DRW 4x4

toddb

az

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Posted: 10/03/19 07:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check the battery charge rate, most are 1/2C so for instance battle born would recommend charging at less than 50A. Also you can charge them at 14.4 all the way up, very helpful when running the gen as it cuts down on run time.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 10/03/19 09:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

Check the input amperage when the 75 amp is running flat out. If it is 15 amps or less, go for it. (or watts 1500 or lower). I think the power factor is only 0.7.

VehicleTrader94 wrote:

Other than time to charge is there any benefit to the 75amp? It's only $10 more. Are there any drawbacks to the 75amp? My understanding is it can charge up to that amount but that does not mean it will.



Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

VehicleTrader94

Texas

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Posted: 10/03/19 11:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

toddb: I was not aware of the 1/2C rate. My future plan was to add a 2nd LiFePo4 in 1 to 2 years but that seems problematic unless I want to do one charger now and change it later. I guess there is no way to limit a higher amp charger to a lower rate?

toddb

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Posted: 10/03/19 11:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the same battery plan, if I need to I guess. I have a PD 40amp charger and it's not programmable. Maybe others are but I didn't find that when I was shopping, seems most are just 14V power supply with a remote shut off. I have my victron wired to control it and the shunt shows the battery taking 40a from it. I figured it's really not an issue running the gen an extra few minutes than hurting the battery. Just verify that on which ever battery you choose.
I did run this battery to 0 once to test it, the bms disconnected. I was able to charge it fully in just over 2 hours....

TxGearhead

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Posted: 10/15/19 09:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I bought a Parallex from Best last Spring. I went to install it and didn't have enough of positive battery cable to make the connection. I put the project on the back burner hoping to do it when the weather cools. So, be thinking and prepared with what you will do if faced with a similar issue.I bought crimp butt connectors and a crimping tool. Also got a butt connector that uses allen head connections.
Hope to get back to it soon.


2018 Ram 3500 CC LB DRW 4X4 Cummins Aisin Laramie Pearl White
2018 Landmark Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4
2014 NauticStar 21 ShallowBay 150HP Yamaha
2016 GoDevil 18X44 35HP Surface Drive

TxGearhead

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Posted: 12/04/19 06:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The Bigfoot Parallex install is moving up my "to do" list. So if I need about 2 inches of cable I'm thinking I'll buy 2 feet. Hopefully be able to coil up the extra rather than jam the extra wherever it will go.
What kind of cable do I need? I've seen battery cable, welding cable, etc. What description do I need to be looking for?? What size?

Siletzspey

Shedd, OR

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Posted: 12/05/19 05:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

VehicleTrader94 wrote:

My future plan was to add a 2nd LiFePo4 ...


When adding a 2nd battery, and then naturally wanting to push twice the charging amps, what concerns are there that one battery's BMS might take that battery offline (e.g. it's own temp drops below 32), and the remaining current-greedy battery decides to absorb twice what it should?

It does seem like the "recommended" LiFePo4 charging rate is 0.5C, and the max-max charging rate is 1.0C, so if the dual charge rate is 0.5C, then worst case when a battery temporarily drops out, the remaining battery will be hit with 1.0C, which while more than recommended, is still supposed to be non-fatal.

--tg

Siletzspey

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Posted: 12/06/19 03:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi VT94.

We seem to be pondering similar things, modulo I'm in a Northern Lite (a fiberglass cousin to your Big Foot), and have decided to jump to Lithium.

I posted my MS-Excel power calculator and tentative upgrade plans in this thread.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30007912.cfm

--tg

VehicleTrader94

Texas

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Posted: 09/17/20 11:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After 6+ months of study, research and tossing various ideas around before I started ordering items in May 2020 I am in the final stages of finishing up the project. I want to give a big thanks to everyone who replied.

I plan to do a more thorough writeup when I'm not pressing to get finished and on the road to Yellowstone next week.

I went with 3 Renogy panels suggested by Adamis. I could have done four but it would make waling on the roof for maintenance to be too crowded for my liking. I opted for the thin flat ones. Some suggested the life may be lower. I took that information into consideration when building my mounting system to allow for easy swap out of panels. I also considered if they fail in 3-5 years technology will likely have advanced enough that buying upgraded ones will make sense. I also considered the comments on lack of cooling for panels stuck directly on the roof. I have corrugated plastic under them to allow for cooling.

I used the VHB 3M tape that Parralax123 and others have suggested.

For the converter I went with a Boondocker 1260CL. Several sources including Battle Born highly recommended this. It charges at 60amps max.

I went with two Battle Born 100a Lithiums. Based on ToddB and other comments on charge rates I decided to do both of them now. I also kept the charge rate more reasonable. I'm not 100% I got this right. If it blows up I'll let you know!

Trimetric 2030RV and solar controller are being used.

We pulled a lot of old wires out and a lot of heavier gauge new ones in.

In the process we corrected some WTF wiring appearing to be from the factory. Someone decided a circuit breaker needed to be hidden under the sink when there was a open breaker available in the original converter box. On the 2000 Bigfoot 10.6B the dinette is at the front left, converter in the step up to bunk and sink on the right. The stereo is above the dinette seat in the wall to the bunk. Less that 3' away was the converter where the stereo could have been wired to and fused. They ran it past that, under the fridge to under the sink where an extra 3 blade fuse block was. Why? To make life difficult for the guy who blew a fuse some day? That was all integrated together.

The solar wires went down the refrigerator shaft as it seems most do.

Thanks again for everyone's advice and comments. More to come.

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