Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Welcome to Selecting a Hitch for Newbies!
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Travel Trailers

Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  Modifications and Accessories

 > Welcome to Selecting a Hitch for Newbies!

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Prev
Jebby14

Windsor Ontario

Senior Member

Joined: 05/12/2015

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/06/19 03:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

the simplified version:

you will need a receiver hitch (the part that stays on the vehicle) likely class III or IV. this will be a square tube. with this you will need a 7 pin trailer plug installed (the part you plug the wire from the trailer into)

this will likely be cheapest at a place like u haul

you will need a brake controller (mounts near driver in the van. this controls the trailers brakes. any mechanic can install and they are available everywhere. id recommend not getting a cheap one that works off time delay, get one that is intuitive.

you will need a hitch (likely a weight distributing hitch) this comes off the van when not towing and goes into the rectangular receiver mentioned above. many different makes and models to choose. do some reading and get the best you can afford. if it does not have integrated anti sway (some do some don't, get it if you can) then you will need a friction anti sway bar that works with this hitch. this should come from a trailer dealer or online. easy to set up but any dealer can install for you if you need it.

examples below are for visual reference only and may or may not be the best. option.

receiver hitch


brake controller


weight distribution hitch


if needed friction anti sway bar.

as far as running out of payload. the vehicle is rated to carry so much weight.

the weight of everything in the van and the weight of the hitch should be subtracted from this number, the remaining weight carrying payload needs to carry the tongue weight of the trailer which should be about 15 percent of the trailers weight. don't look at dry weights they mean nothing, take the gvwr listed for the trailer and multiply by 0.15. if that number is larger than whats left of your payload you don't have enough tow vehicle regardless of the listed towing capacity. very few cars and light trucks can tow all the way to their towing capacity with a travel trailer since they run out of payload to carry the tongue weight first.


If it moves and it shouldn't..... duct tape
if it doesn't move and it should.....WD40
if all else fails .....BFH


atexintx

El Paso Texas

New Member

Joined: 08/28/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/06/19 07:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Now THIS is starting to make good sense! Thx a mil.

stevemorris

ontario

Senior Member

Joined: 08/14/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 09/07/19 06:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

as stated above, you will run out of payload long before you run out of towing capacity
simply put payload is what is being carried in or on the tow vehicle. passengers, luggage, the receiver, the actual trailer hitch and the tongue wt of the trailer
the "towing capacity" is what the vehicle will pull its pretty well a bogus number invented by marketting types, the same people who tell you their trailers are 3000 lbs and towable by anything!
wind drag is also a killer to under sized tow vehicles. there is a huge difference between towing a travel trailer and a popup of the same weight. carry a sheet of plywood on a windy day and you'll get it!


2017 Ram 1500 4door, 4x4, 5.7 l hemi, 8 speed
2008 KZ Spree 260

atexintx

El Paso Texas

New Member

Joined: 08/28/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/09/19 05:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jebby14 wrote:

ford OEM controller of me is night and day better than the cheap time delay unit I had in my grand Cherokee. Spend the money on a high end controller and hitch with antisway it will make your marginal tow vehicle much more happy. as for the receiver as long is its in the right rating go with the best price. likely u haul.


Is "hitch with anti sway" the same as a "weight distribution system"?

opnspaces

San Diego Ca

Senior Member

Joined: 12/22/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/09/19 06:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Usually yes, a hitch with integrated sway control will be both weight distribution and sway control. The key word is integrated. You could also have a weight distribution hitch and an add on sway control piece. Those are two separate purchases.

Isn't the Caravan a minivan? Some minivans are not rated for weight distribution. What year is the Caravan? We already know it's the 3.6 liter.

As far as your quotes can you type out the description and price (maybe use the bullet point icon above) of anything that costs more than $75 and we can help decipher it for you? The concern is that one of the cheaper priced quotes might be a time based brake controller which is not the best.


1996 Suburban 4x4. 350, 4.10 3/4 ton
2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH
1986 Coleman Columbia Popup.

opnspaces

San Diego Ca

Senior Member

Joined: 12/22/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/09/19 06:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

delete

* This post was edited 09/09/19 07:41pm by opnspaces *

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Prev

Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  Modifications and Accessories

 > Welcome to Selecting a Hitch for Newbies!
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Travel Trailers


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS