Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Power steering pump questions, 1993 Chevrolet P30
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 > Power steering pump questions, 1993 Chevrolet P30

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Racer-X-

North Georgia, USA

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Posted: 09/05/19 09:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm replacing the power steering pump and all the belts on this 1993 Chevrolet P30 chassis (1994 Flair by Fleetwood motorhome). It's got the 7.4L gas V8 (Throttle body injection).

I've got a service manual for a 1989 P30 chassis, but I can't find a CD of the 1993 version at the moment. I'm wondering if anyone has any of the specifications for some of the things when I put this thing back together.

Information that would be nice to know:
  • Belt tension specification for the V belt on the power steering pump (only)
  • Belt tension specification for the V belt that goes to the power steering pump and the AC compressor for the chassis (driver/passenger area) AC
  • Belt tension specification for the multi-rib ("serpentine") belt for the alternator
  • Is there an additional belt that goes from the front of the power steering pulley stack to the AC compressor. There seem to be pulleys there for an additional belt, but I didn't find a belt on those pulleys. What size belt or what part number fits there?

If anyone has done this replacement before, any tips (I won't ask how you know these things) and traps for this particular job.

So far it doesn't seem too bad. I've had the usual clearance issues that you get working on any RV or van (How do I get to that thing? type stuff). I've got the old pump mostly off already. It looks like I need to juggle it around some to take it out the top, because it doesn't seem to want to come out the bottom. I know I'll have to pull the pulley stack off it and transfer it to the new one, and the adjustable bracketry that is bolted to the thing to allow it to pivot for adjustment.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 09/05/19 10:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had my shop do the pump.
They removed the inner fender well to gain better access. Pump came out over frame rail.
The tightening of the pump was difficult as you need to insert a 1/2 breaker bar into hole in bracket. Hard to see.
The safety v-belt for the powersteering/brake pump is tightened same as old belts, with 1/2-3/4 deflection.
Mine only had the two belts. Serpentine for all pullies plus the safety power steering/brake pump. No automatic belt tensioner, all tightened to old school deflection method.
Very diffcult to get small v-belt tightened with serpentine in place.


Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow

2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker


Chum lee

Albuquerque, NM

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Posted: 09/05/19 12:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've always tensioned the belts by feel unless there is a factory tensioner. If the belt squeals when you turn the steering wheel, (engine running) it's too loose. If it crackles, it's too tight.

A slight deflection of the belt with moderate thumb pressure is the right tension. Test a belt that is working properly with your thumb. Now you know the feel. That's all there is to it. If the belt won't shut up, then you have the wrong belt, something is out of alignment, worn out, or, you need to try again.

Chum lee

Racer-X-

North Georgia, USA

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Posted: 09/05/19 03:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I hear everyone with the "tension by feel" thing.

I own the "kriket" belt tension testers, and I'm probably one of the few guys who prefers to use them.

On another forum, someone came up with this page on the Gates web site: https://www.gates.com/us/en/resources/calculators/belt-tension-calculator

That page shows the actual tension specs for Gates belts, and the new belts i have are Gates belts, so that hits what I need.

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