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ScottG

Bothell Wa.

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Posted: 09/08/19 11:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

olfarmer wrote:

Wouldn't a failing master cylinder have leakage and fluid loss? Or, could the fluid pass by the piston and not leak out?
Ed


Exactly, it probably wont leak externally but the fluid has bypassed the piston seal. The problem may seem to correct itself later but don't be fooled.
It's time to replace the MC.


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Rick Jay

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Posted: 09/08/19 01:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, I agree it could be the master cylinder, but if the fluid has never been changed since the rig was new, it is LONG overdue, and most likely has water in it. I would change the fluid first, and then see if the problem recurs.

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Chum lee

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Posted: 09/08/19 02:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

olfarmer wrote:

Thanks for the replies. Wouldn't a failing master cylinder have leakage and fluid loss? Or, could the fluid pass by the piston and not leak out?
Ed


Master cylinders can and do fail with BOTH the above scenarios. If after flushing/changing the brake fluid, you experience the pedal to the floor, . . . . again, your master cylinder may be due for replacement.

By NOT changing the brake fluid in a timely manner, you are encouraging ALL of the other wear item brake parts that are in contact with the brake fluid to wear/corrode more quickly due to water contamination.

Chum lee

* This post was edited 09/09/19 01:29pm by Chum lee *

tropical36

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Posted: 09/08/19 02:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tropical36 wrote:

olfarmer wrote:

Thanks for the replies. Those are the only reasons that I could think of too. The fluid has never been flushed to my knowledge. Wouldn't a failing master cylinder have leakage and fluid loss? Or, could the fluid pass by the piston and not leak out?
Ed

Brake fluid should be changed every 2 - 3 years, with at least DOT 4 and 5.1 would be even better, but may be hard to find.
Boiling point for new fluid is over 400F and with you obviously boiling yours, it was probably lucky to have been 212F.
Also reeducate yourself on mountain descents and if you're using the brakes much at all, going down, you need to be in low gear.

I even had a boiling incident occur in traffic with our old P30 rig.
I decided on putting an aluminum shield between the exhaust manifold and the brake lines. Can't say for what it was worth, but in never happened again and we had that coach in all of the lower 48, over a period of 9yrs.


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DFord

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Posted: 09/08/19 08:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What would have caused the brakes to get that hot? Were you riding the brakes after before getting to the campground? Did you smell "hot brakes" when you got to the campground? One hard stop shouldn't have caused that much heat byd itself. If your brakes didn't release all the way after your panic stop that could cause it. Then the question is, why didn't they release? If only one wheel got hot, that could be a failed brake hose.


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time2roll

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Posted: 09/08/19 08:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would replace the master and flush all fluid. Inspect for leaks. Don't cheap out on brakes.


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olfarmer

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Posted: 09/08/19 09:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have driven in mountains for years, I know not to ride the brakes and to shift down. I was not in heavy mountains for the last 50 miles at least and was on a slow road with a speed limit of from 35 to 55 mph. The brakes worked fine when I got to the campground. I left the engine running while I went and signed in, that took 5 or 10 minutes and then I slowly drove to my camp site, that is when I noticed the pedal sinking to the floor. I think I will go to the Chevy garage in the morning and make an appointment to have the fluid changed and if they think the master cylinder is bad, I will have them change it. Although I agree the fluid should be changed I really don't think the brakes were that hot. I just had the MH in to the Chevy garage back home before the trip and had them pack the wheel bearings and check it over including the brake pads and all fluid levels to the tune of $830 so it is rather disappointing that we are having this problem. Oh well such is life, I am just happy it happened at 5 mph and not 60 mph. Thanks again for your ideas and opinions.


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snooper

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Posted: 09/08/19 10:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

did you check the wheels (not tires) for heat... was the wheel hot (front wheel)... a caliper might have hung up, dragging on the disk and over heating the brake fluid causing a brake failure.... with the brake pedal going to or near the floor when applied... returns to normal when cooled off...serious proplem if not addressed...

olfarmer

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Posted: 09/08/19 10:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did not actually feel the wheels but I was under and looked for fluid leaks and did not smell anything hot. I had that happen to my previous MH but I wouldn't think a caliper should have hung up as I just had the wheel bearings packed and they had the calipers apart and checked the brake pads which still looked like new.

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Posted: 09/08/19 11:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I doubt if they took the brake pads out.... most likely "eye balled" the pads... I had this happen to me several years ago... I pulled into a camp ground with a older MH and had a brake pedal problem... I discovered one of my front wheels was hot,after cooling, the brake pedal worked great. No problems with my return trip home. .... next outing, after traveling about 5 miles in town traffic and using my brakes several times, the pedal went to the floor... the wheel was hot... took MH to brake shop and discovered caliper was not releasing all the way and was dragging the disc pad on the disk..overheated the caliper & brake fluid.... changed out the calipers and no other problems... Just giving you my expereience...

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