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rgatijnet1

Florida

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Posted: 09/09/19 04:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Since the fluid may not have ever been flushed, there is every possibility that there was a lot of moisture mixed with the brake fluid. In this case it could have boiled WITHOUT actually getting hot enough to smell "hot brakes". Moisture lowers the boiling point and enough water means that it could have boiled under conditions that were not much hotter than they would have gotten with normal braking. You can spend as much money as you want, and change out everything, but I'll bet that just changing the brake fluid will fix your problem. It is a fairly common issue on the P chassis Workhorse.

John&Joey

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Posted: 09/09/19 04:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

snooper wrote:

I doubt if they took the brake pads out.... most likely "eye balled" the pads... I had this happen to me several years ago... I pulled into a camp ground with a older MH and had a brake pedal problem... I discovered one of my front wheels was hot,after cooling, the brake pedal worked great. No problems with my return trip home. .... next outing, after traveling about 5 miles in town traffic and using my brakes several times, the pedal went to the floor... the wheel was hot... took MH to brake shop and discovered caliper was not releasing all the way and was dragging the disc pad on the disk..overheated the caliper & brake fluid.... changed out the calipers and no other problems... Just giving you my expereience...


X2

Same thing for me. This occurred after I slammed on the brakes to avoid two guys on bikes.

Slide pins needed cleaning and grease, otherwise brake shoes dragged, built up heat, little to no brakes.

tropical36

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Posted: 09/09/19 04:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

olfarmer wrote:

I have driven in mountains for years, I know not to ride the brakes and to shift down. I was not in heavy mountains for the last 50 miles at least and was on a slow road with a speed limit of from 35 to 55 mph. The brakes worked fine when I got to the campground. I left the engine running while I went and signed in, that took 5 or 10 minutes and then I slowly drove to my camp site, that is when I noticed the pedal sinking to the floor. I think I will go to the Chevy garage in the morning and make an appointment to have the fluid changed and if they think the master cylinder is bad, I will have them change it. Although I agree the fluid should be changed I really don't think the brakes were that hot. I just had the MH in to the Chevy garage back home before the trip and had them pack the wheel bearings and check it over including the brake pads and all fluid levels to the tune of $830 so it is rather disappointing that we are having this problem. Oh well such is life, I am just happy it happened at 5 mph and not 60 mph. Thanks again for your ideas and opinions.

Typical scenario for boiling fluid and they usually don't go to the floor like that, until you've stopped and sat for a spell. Probably cuz they get even hotter then and without the amount of air flowing, while in motion.
Some years ago an an elderly man was killed, when he and his wife went through a building in downtown Buffalo, WY after not being able to stop their descent, coming down from near 10K ft., Powder River pass. It was thought that he had pulled over at a turn about, somewhere on the way down and that his brakes failed soon after starting down again.
For proving a point, we came down that same mountain into Buffalo, 7 days prior in our old gasser and only noticed my pedal being hard. Didn't have a problem until we pulled over in town for about 20 mins. Decided on heading on to Indian campground and that's when I realized that I had no brakes to speak of. Inched our way there in low gear and got setup. The next morning I had brakes, but back tracked to a brake shop at the foot of the mountain for having the fluid changed, anyway. They do one hell of a business there and can tell you many stories about people coming down that mountain.


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tropical36

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Posted: 09/09/19 05:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tropical36 wrote:

olfarmer wrote:

I have driven in mountains for years, I know not to ride the brakes and to shift down. I was not in heavy mountains for the last 50 miles at least and was on a slow road with a speed limit of from 35 to 55 mph. The brakes worked fine when I got to the campground. I left the engine running while I went and signed in, that took 5 or 10 minutes and then I slowly drove to my camp site, that is when I noticed the pedal sinking to the floor. I think I will go to the Chevy garage in the morning and make an appointment to have the fluid changed and if they think the master cylinder is bad, I will have them change it. Although I agree the fluid should be changed I really don't think the brakes were that hot. I just had the MH in to the Chevy garage back home before the trip and had them pack the wheel bearings and check it over including the brake pads and all fluid levels to the tune of $830 so it is rather disappointing that we are having this problem. Oh well such is life, I am just happy it happened at 5 mph and not 60 mph. Thanks again for your ideas and opinions.

Typical scenario for boiling fluid and they usually don't go to the floor like that, until you've stopped and sat for a spell. Probably cuz they get even hotter then and without the amount of air flowing, while in motion.
Some years ago an an elderly man was killed, when he and his wife went through a building in downtown Buffalo, WY after not being able to stop their descent, coming down from near 10K ft., Powder River pass. It was thought that he had pulled over at a turn about, somewhere on the way down and that his brakes failed soon after starting down again.
For proving a point, we came down that same mountain into Buffalo, 7 days prior in our old gasser and only noticed my pedal being hard. Didn't have a problem until we pulled over in town for about 20 mins. Decided on heading on to Indian campground and that's when I realized that I had no brakes to speak of. Inched our way there in low gear and got setup. The next morning I had brakes, but back tracked to a brake shop at the foot of the mountain for having the fluid changed, anyway. They do one hell of a business there and can tell you many stories about people coming down that mountain.

Again, I once had it happen in downtown traffic, as well, prompting me to install a makeshift heat shield near the exhaust manifold.

John&Joey

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Posted: 09/09/19 06:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FWIW, lots of talk about water in the brake fluid. Good stuff, but all brake fluids have a boiling point. Look at the can, the higher the boiling point, the more expensive. Ford had such bad dragging brakes they came out with their own brake fluid trying to defeat the problem.

Your shoes are dragging is the most responsible guess. You need to fix that issue an perform all the other brake maintenance items in the owners manual for extreme use.

I personally would not go any distance till I had the calipers cleaned/greased. More then likely the shop will just want to replace them since that’s what they know, unless you’re in a truck shop with old school mechanics.

olfarmer

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Posted: 09/10/19 11:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK, I took the MH in to the large local dealer here. They tested the brake fluid for moisture and there was 4% water in it so they flushed the brake fluid, checked the calipers, tested the pressure, and test drove it. They said one rotor showed signs if being hot at some time but that the caliper was free and moved easily. They checked all calipers for being free to move as they should. They said the master cylinder was OK. I am very happy with their service, it was not cheap but very thorough and were very good at keeping me informed on their progress. Thanks for all of the comments!


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rgatijnet1

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Posted: 09/11/19 05:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

olfarmer wrote:

OK, I took the MH in to the large local dealer here. They tested the brake fluid for moisture and there was 4% water in it so they flushed the brake fluid, checked the calipers, tested the pressure, and test drove it. They said one rotor showed signs if being hot at some time but that the caliper was free and moved easily. They checked all calipers for being free to move as they should. They said the master cylinder was OK. I am very happy with their service, it was not cheap but very thorough and were very good at keeping me informed on their progress. Thanks for all of the comments!


If you still have your invoice, check to see how many quarts of brake fluid they used. I have seen others charged for brake flush when really all they got was a brake bleed. They should have used 3 quarts of brake fluid for a flush and only 1 quart for a brake bleed. Glad things worked out with a minimum of expense.
A fluid flush should be done every 2 years. Your fluid showed 4% moisture content but that moisture tends to accumulate at the lowest point in the system, which is the calipers, which also get the hottest and causes the fluid to boil.

John&Joey

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Posted: 09/11/19 06:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like you found yourself an excellent shop while on the road. Nothing is worst then going cross country and not knowing if your brakes will stop you.

A thermal gun at Harbor Freight is very cheap and is a handy tool. When you pull over for fuel shoot your rotors and start to get a feel for them. You just may find out that one which ran hot still does. Clearance changes when things start warming up.

Safe travels back.

olfarmer

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Posted: 09/14/19 11:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

John&Joey wrote:

Sounds like you found yourself an excellent shop while on the road. Nothing is worst then going cross country and not knowing if your brakes will stop you.

A thermal gun at Harbor Freight is very cheap and is a handy tool. When you pull over for fuel shoot your rotors and start to get a feel for them. You just may find out that one which ran hot still does. Clearance changes when things start warming up.

Safe travels back.


Thank you

atsrmf

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Posted: 09/19/19 05:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check the brake booster rod adjustment in the master cylinder. If the rod is too long, even my a millimeter or two, it can cause the brakes to drag. If it is too short, you can get a spongy pedal. Something in the booster or pedal linkage may have cause this clearance to change over time. Verification is easy, and takes a special tool that cost $25. It may be the best money you ever spent!

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