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 > Hard wired surge protector

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dodge guy

Bartlett IL

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Posted: 09/13/19 05:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello. So I'm considering a surge protector for next year. I'm leaning towards a hard wired version, Progressive Industries HW50C. However I have read that when they fail. You lose all power in the coach. Not sure as I'm new to surge protectors. Which brings up a question. Where would be the best place to wire it in? Sounds like at the panel is where it should be wired in. But if it fails I have no power. I was thinking if I wired it in before the ATS then if it did fail I would still be able to get power from the generator. I haven't ruled out an inline protector, but have read that when they do end up protecting the RV they cannot be repaired and need to be replaced.

This is all new to me, so please enlighten me!


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accsys

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Posted: 09/13/19 06:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We wired ours before the ATS back in 2010 and it has protected us a few times from bad power. I wired the input cord to the Progressive and then bought a short length of cord from Home Depot to go from the Progressive to the ATS - very simple. I have also purchased a Terminal strip that can be used to bypass the Progressive or ATS if one of them should fail.


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jplante4

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Posted: 09/13/19 06:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have that same surge protector in the Sahara. It is wired to protect from bad power from the generator as well, which has saved my butt a coupe of times when I was having generator problems.


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scbwr

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Posted: 09/13/19 06:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I wired the Progressive EMS portable version into the power bay by wiring a new cord with female plug into the ATS. The EMS is plugged into that cord, and the main power cord is plugged into the EMS. If the EMS fails, I can plug the main cord into the cord from the ATS....or simply plug in a replacement. The system works for me. I always plug in the power first and check the EMS before doing any other set up i.e. water, sewer, slides, levelers, etc.


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Dick_B

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Posted: 09/13/19 06:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

X2 accsys.


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oldave

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Posted: 09/13/19 07:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Actually I think the Progressive HW50C may be the only one that can be repaired
and I have heard of them sending free replacement parts .
I installed mine myself just after the elect power reel .
With the same fear of being with out power if something went wrong I wired it
with receptacles and plugs so I can unplug it and bypass it all together .
Its been several yrs now and I have never needed to do that .
It has a remote panel that reads the volts and amps on each leg that is
very handy . I mounted it in the bay with my power cord so I can see if
the power is ok before closing the door.
Progressive HW50C is my recommendation .

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 09/13/19 08:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use a patch panel approach to all my power devices. That way in 20 seconds I can wire around them.


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dodge guy

Bartlett IL

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Posted: 09/13/19 08:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

oldave wrote:

Actually I think the Progressive HW50C may be the only one that can be repaired
and I have heard of them sending free replacement parts .
I installed mine myself just after the elect power reel .
With the same fear of being with out power if something went wrong I wired it
with receptacles and plugs so I can unplug it and bypass it all together .
Its been several yrs now and I have never needed to do that .
It has a remote panel that reads the volts and amps on each leg that is
very handy . I mounted it in the bay with my power cord so I can see if
the power is ok before closing the door.
Progressive HW50C is my recommendation .


Yes that is one of the reasons I’m leaning toward the hardwired version. I read that it is repairable and it has the remote mount to monitor voltage. I’ll have to look into making it so I can unplug from it and bypass it off ever needed.

camperdave

northern, California

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Posted: 09/13/19 08:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm not sure that 'repairable' is really much of a selling point. I would think it still needs to be removed and shipped for repair.

I would definitely wire it in a way that it can be quickly and easily bypassed.


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Bumpyroad

Virginia

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Posted: 09/13/19 10:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would get something with a bypass feature.
bumpy





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