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 > Dometic RM2551 fridge won't operate on propane

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kjmaggart

Hendersonville, TN

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Posted: 09/15/19 07:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I took a gun cleaning brush and cleaned out the tube. I went all the way past the holes. There was no debris. My next task is to check the pressure. Both stove units burn bright blue with plenty of flame. So, I believe the problem would have to be after the split to the stove.

Also,as a footnote, the water heater works very well. Only 20-30 minutes after turning on that we have nice, hot water.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 09/16/19 06:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kjmaggart wrote:

I took a gun cleaning brush and cleaned out the tube. I went all the way past the holes. There was no debris. My next task is to check the pressure. Both stove units burn bright blue with plenty of flame. So, I believe the problem would have to be after the split to the stove.

Also,as a footnote, the water heater works very well. Only 20-30 minutes after turning on that we have nice, hot water.


You need to pull the refer and remove the spiral baffle and then clean the flue tube. 11.5 inches WC is the LP pressure. Your stove operates at 10 inches WC. It has its own regulator that drops the LP pressure. The water heater also will operate with lower than spec LP pressure. Just a drop from 11.5 to 10 inches will affect the LP flame on the refer. Doug

ktmrfs

Portland, Oregon

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Posted: 09/16/19 10:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kjmaggart wrote:

Ok; my flame doesn't look like that. It looks like the small, bright flames in the picture but doesn't create a plume of blue flame. Next thing is to check the pressure and make sure we are getting the propane necessary.

Thanks for an informative pic!


the orfice for the propane is very very small. easy for any spec if dust, spider web etc. to partially plug it. It happens, has been an issue for me on occasion. Solution is to remove the gas jet, clean it out with a welding tip cleaner of appropriate size and blow the tube out to get any dust, debris, rust etc out as well. and do the same around the flue. Then try again.


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Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 09/16/19 03:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ktmrfs wrote:

kjmaggart wrote:

Ok; my flame doesn't look like that. It looks like the small, bright flames in the picture but doesn't create a plume of blue flame. Next thing is to check the pressure and make sure we are getting the propane necessary.

Thanks for an informative pic!


the orfice for the propane is very very small. easy for any spec if dust, spider web etc. to partially plug it. It happens, has been an issue for me on occasion. Solution is to remove the gas jet, clean it out with a welding tip cleaner of appropriate size and blow the tube out to get any dust, debris, rust etc out as well. and do the same around the flue. Then try again.


Dirty orifice would NOT allow that good of a flame.
Dirty orifice would disrupt gas flow which would NOT provide enough air mixture and flame would be very yellow

That flame is from LOW LP SYSTEM Pressure


Is it time for your medication or mine?


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ktmrfs

Portland, Oregon

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Posted: 09/16/19 08:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

ktmrfs wrote:

kjmaggart wrote:

Ok; my flame doesn't look like that. It looks like the small, bright flames in the picture but doesn't create a plume of blue flame. Next thing is to check the pressure and make sure we are getting the propane necessary.

Thanks for an informative pic!


the orfice for the propane is very very small. easy for any spec if dust, spider web etc. to partially plug it. It happens, has been an issue for me on occasion. Solution is to remove the gas jet, clean it out with a welding tip cleaner of appropriate size and blow the tube out to get any dust, debris, rust etc out as well. and do the same around the flue. Then try again.


Dirty orifice would NOT allow that good of a flame.
Dirty orifice would disrupt gas flow which would NOT provide enough air mixture and flame would be very yellow

That flame is from LOW LP SYSTEM Pressure


I beg to differ since I have and a few others I know, flame very similar to the one the OP posted and inspecting and cleaning the orfice and the flame was back to normal. the "bad" flame was still blue, just very short. Now depending on how bad the orfice is plugged, yes it could very well be yellow. but a piece of spider web is all it takes to have an effect.

kjmaggart

Hendersonville, TN

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Posted: 09/18/19 09:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I looked at the pinhole orifice and could not see through. So, took a very small pin and widened a bit. Made all the difference in the world! I now have a flame that looks like the one Old Biscuit posted.

May have done a little too good a job because I had to reduce the amount of gas going through as it was a bit too good.

Now, the bottom of the flue is hot and the top is not!! Just like it's supposed to be.

Fingers crossed, we may have the issue resolved!

kjmaggart

Hendersonville, TN

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Posted: 09/18/19 09:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Also, I want to thank everyone who has given advice. You guys are awesome! Many times the people in forums are not kind to someone new to the whatever.

Not the case here. Everyone had great suggestions and it felt like you really wanted to help. Thanks again! We're looking forward to our next trip next week!

DFord

Near St Louis, MO

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Posted: 09/18/19 10:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it was me, I'd buy another orifice (I've been repairing furnaces since 1970). The hole size of that piece is critical. There must have been something partially blocking it. Wallowing out with a pin as you did could cause problems later. May as well benefit from an undamaged one while you own it. You wouldn't want to pass it on to a future owner in that condition (liability).


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