Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Refrigerator Outside Vents
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 > Refrigerator Outside Vents

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powellmj

Benton, AR

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Posted: 09/16/19 04:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a Wolfpack 325 pack 13. The cabinets over fridge held a lot of heat and the freezer was just ok. Noticed a wasp flying around the external vents and thought I better check for nest. Pulled the top vent cover and was surprised to see that the wall covering came up over the fridge heat dissipater and there was a board across the top blocking airflow (pictures explain better) anyway there was only about a 3 inch gap for the heat to exhaust. I made some modifications and Wow, the difference was immediate. The aux fan had even shut off before I had things cleaned up and back together. It's worth a look to pop off that top vent cover and check.

[image] https://ibb.co/k5fgd1c
[image] https://ibb.co/qyCLYhK

jkwilson

Indiana

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Posted: 09/16/19 05:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Can’t see your pictures, but most refrigerators require that extended wall to keep the air from short cutting and not flowing through all of the piping.


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wildtoad

Blythewood, SC

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Posted: 09/16/19 05:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good catch. Just goes to show not everyone takes pride in their work.


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Lwiddis

Lone Pine, CA

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Posted: 09/16/19 05:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Problem. You diagnosed. You fixed!


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Lynnmor

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Posted: 09/16/19 05:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What kind of slob did that work?

My trailer had insulation blocking most of the air flow and there was no baffle at the top. It at least had the lower board installed correctly. This kind of work is par for the course.

You still do not have the lower baffle installed correctly and there is no top baffle guiding warm air from the top edge of the frige cabinet to the top of the outside vent. See the installation manual and do it right. While it works better now, it may not keep after under extreme conditions. Fridges installed in slides and utilizing side vents need all the help they can get.





Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 09/16/19 05:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK.......center section was never removed....intent was but got forgotten/missed etc

Other issue is that WIDE OPEN SPACE on top of fridge.
That is a DEAD AIR SPACE and will HOLD HEAT

That area should be completely closed off and sealed ----right at the back edge of fridge (LIKE IT WAS in 1st pic)


[image]


[image]


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ScottG

Bothell Wa.

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Posted: 09/16/19 08:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Why did you remove the top baffle?
You're only making things worse.


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jkwilson

Indiana

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Posted: 09/16/19 10:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Piece you cut out is supposed to be there on many refrigerators. Keeps the air flowing through the fins instead of straight out the vent.

opnspaces

San Diego Ca

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Posted: 09/16/19 11:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey jkwilson, which piece, top (finished piece of dark wood exposing gap at top of refrigerator) or bottom (splintered piece exposing fins)? OP cut out two different pieces. Are you saying he should have left both pieces alone?


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LarryJM

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Posted: 09/17/19 03:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

opnspaces wrote:

Hey jkwilson, which piece, top (finished piece of dark wood exposing gap at top of refrigerator) or bottom (splintered piece exposing fins)? OP cut out two different pieces. Are you saying he should have left both pieces alone?


The section closing off the dead space on top of the actual refrigerator box should have been left there. It is required so an air pocket doesn't form which will acually block off/disrupt the flow of the air thru the coils on the back of the refrigerator. This problem is much like AFAIK the tailgate up/down when towing where leaving the tailgate up creates an air pocket in the bed of the pickup where the air flow then flows smoothly over this air pocket instead of forming a turbulance in the bed of the pickup causing more drag. The air pocket that can form over this dead space on top of the refer can force the flow of air up closest to the refer out from the back of the refer and result in less actual air flow over the fins which are located near the back of the actual refer. That is to say now the actual air flow is concentrated more near the wall of the trailer and less close to the actual back of the refer.

Also, removing the other section along the outer wall of the trailer just inside the access door might also make air flow worse since now you are allowing air to escape to the outside thru the access door before it has a chance to flow over those top fins. I'm sure there are some specs on the sizing and positioning of that opening to maximize the air flow thru the fins is somewhere in the installation manual. It appears this installation doesn't have a top vent, but is vented thru that top access door if I'm understanding these pics correctly.

IMO the OP definitely made matters worse when he removed both those sections and is why folks need to think a little before blindly modding their trailer. Things like applicance, A/C, heating, systems installed in trailers are designed sometimes with very unique and specific requirements which if not followed results in them not functioning to their specs or even causing a hazardous condition (i.e. fire, ventillation, etc.)

Larry


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