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 > First TT advice

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MitchF150

Puyallup, WA

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Posted: 09/20/19 12:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Takamine wrote:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but... doesn't having a WDH remove some of the weight from the hitch and distribute it to the axles of the truck and trailer? Thus reducing the amount of weight that the tongue is actually putting on the hitch. Again, correct me if I'm wrong.


Not in the sense that you are thinking.. All a WD hitch does is distribute that weight to the front axle, the rear axle and trailer axles. But the tongue weight itself is still the same.

Think of a wheelbarrow and you put a #80 bag of cement in it. That weight is on the front tire and the rear skids. You still have an #80 bag of cement.

Now you lift up on the handles.. Think of that as the WD bars on your arms. Your legs/feet are now the trailers axle.

Nothing has changed with that #80 bag of cement. You have just distributed it's weight between the wheel (front axle) the skids (rear axle) and your legs/feet (trailer axle).

Mitch


2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.

badercubed

Canandaigua, NY

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Posted: 09/21/19 07:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As a starting point, I'd eliminate model numbers with 26 or higher in their name from your vocabulary and stick to the 24 and lower ones. For two people just starting out, you should be able to find plenty of trailer in those lengths.


2019 Apex Nano 208BHS
2018 GMC Canyon Crew Cab SLE

Been camping for 36 of my 37 years!

philh

Belleville MI

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Posted: 09/21/19 08:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Are you a family or just a couple?

We fell in love with the Coachman 192 RBS

JG

Williamsburg, Virginia, USA

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Posted: 09/21/19 08:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Look at the Fiberglass Trailers in the USA and Canada. Look at having a Trailer made for you directly from the factory. The quality is a lot better. Look at Lazy Dazy out of CA. They build Class C's for 50 years. Out of Canada Taylor Coach will build you one. They are 4 season I think. The fiberglass one have very good build quality and fast resale value. Big Foot Fiberglass makes a small 5th wheel for example. It is just my wife & I & one dog. Also Look at Casita, Oliver, & One's in Canada. You will not have to worry about leaks in a fiberglass Trailer. They last forever & they hold their value. They tow very easy & people will come up to you & want to see inside. Happens every trip we go on. There is a wait of several months on these. That's how popular they are. Mine was 2 month wait for the Casita.
This article just came out.
https://www.curbed.com/2019/9/18/20870828/rv-camper-repairs-poor-quality?fbclid=IwAR0b5jdOe8Tgu7Bpyb3trnIBPOqSsGOcXPZg4Vuv3YaDd0JZqxnZC8zIO9Q

* This post was edited 09/21/19 08:30pm by JG *


2019 Casita Liberty
2015 Chevy Truck
Wonderful wife since 1969

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 09/21/19 09:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^Mitch.....and the wheelbarrow legs (the rear axle in your example) now have 0 weight on-them because your wdh (arms) put the weight more on the front axle and trailer.
My only issue with using the SRT Durango is the fancy self leveling and adjustable damping is not made to, imo, manage a heavy trailer with a large duty cycle and that stuff is expensive.
Aside from wear n tear on that, any reasonable sub 1000lb tongue weight with a wdh will work great. And the rest of the vehicle is more capable than a 2500 Hemi (engine, trans and brakes)


"Yes Sir, Oct 10 1888, Those poor school children froze to death in their tracks. They did not even find them until Spring. Especially hard hit were the ones who had to trek uphill to school both ways, with no shoes." -Bert A.

Thetruck454

NH

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Posted: 09/21/19 10:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jebby14 wrote:

1590
- your family (going to guess 500 lbs adjust as you like
-100 lbs for hitch
- whatever you have in the car (going to guess 250 lbs adjust accordingly_
=740 left of your payload
740/1.15 = 4933 lbs gvwr.

I don't know your weight numbers but I suspect you are way out of payload


It's just me and my wife so including stuff in the Durango and the hitch I wouldn't think I'd use enough payload to eat into that 870 tongue weight cap.


Huntindog wrote:

First off, forget all the bravado talk about how much power your Durango has, as in how it laughs at trailers... Power has nothing to do with being able to tow safely and under control. In fact, having a lot of power in an other wise towing challenged platform can just get you in trouble faster.
Some well regarded TVs in the past such as the early Dodge/Cummins and Ford Powerstrokes were far more capable than your Durango, with much less power.

That said, you do seem to realize that your limitation will be payload. In my situation, I have a 1 ton dually CC, So I don't pay a lot of attention to it.... But you NEED to KNOW your numbers everytime, as you will be cutting it close. This is difficult with a TT, as normal usage can drastically alter the TW of the TT in the course of a trip. Propane gets consumed and disappears, FW leaves its tank and ends up in the black/grey tanks. Food/drink gets consumed and leaves the pantry/fridge, and ends up in the black tank. Clothes get used, an leave the closets ending up in the hamper etc. Many other items may ride home in a different location than they started the out on the trip.

So you need to know your weights..No guessing or estimating. Get it weighed (Durango and TT) ready to camp, at the heaviest you will ever be. Figure out where your TW needs to be. Then get and USE a Sherline TW scale Everytime you hitch up. Doing this will allow you to make any needed adjustments BEFORE getting on the highway and finding out the hard way that your TW is too low.

Be safe out there.
Happy camping


I actually have one of those Sherline TW scales in my amazon cart as we speak. I'm thinking of getting one of othe OBDII Haul gauges to use after I cross reference it to actual weighting the trailer and Durango to make sure that Haul gauge is accurate.

You are right power only gets you going, stopping and maneuvering the trailer is really where a vehicle has to work to handle a trailer. I know it may have sounded as if all I was talking about was the power of the Durango SRT, but I was also referring to how well the suspension and rest of the vehicle took it. I've towed a much larger trailer with a half ton truck that was comparable when looking at trailer weight vs max trailer weight and it yanked that half ton around a lot more than the Durango. I was truly surprised just how planted the vehicle was. I've talked to similar people that towed closer to the 8700# cap with the SRT and they had similar observation on how well it handled the load. As long as the tongue weight or payload isn't exceeded I bet it would surprise any "truck guy" with how confidently it tows. I know because I used to be one that only ever owned trucks and I was impressed.

philh wrote:

Are you a family or just a couple?

We fell in love with the Coachman 192 RBS


Just a couple... with two fur-kids aka two cats haha


Grit dog wrote:

^Mitch.....and the wheelbarrow legs (the rear axle in your example) now have 0 weight on-them because your wdh (arms) put the weight more on the front axle and trailer.
My only issue with using the SRT Durango is the fancy self leveling and adjustable damping is not made to, imo, manage a heavy trailer with a large duty cycle and that stuff is expensive.
Aside from wear n tear on that, any reasonable sub 1000lb tongue weight with a wdh will work great. And the rest of the vehicle is more capable than a 2500 Hemi (engine, trans and brakes)


Thank you, I don't think many people realize how well set up the Durango SRT is. It's definitely going to cost a lot more in wear and tear to tow than a 2500, but it sure won't fuss about it in the process.



Also to challenge the general consensus, The "technical" articles I've read in regards to towing all say to count the weight of the WDH for payload and GAWR, but DO NOT count it towards tongue weight. To be safe you can count the weight of the spring bars and the brackets that attach to the trailer tongue, but that's it. Unless the manufacturers are rating the actual weight applied to the reciever, they are referencing the weight applied vertically to the hitch at the center point of the ball. I'm referencing the thread on this forum https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/14265335.cfm

Based on this thread, if I tow a trailer with a WDH with a tongue weight less than 870# (as measured at the hitch with a Sherline TW scale or similar not including the weight of the WDH) and total weight less is than 8700# AND both the front ant rear GAWR GVW and GCWR of the tow vehicle are not exceeded I'm technically in the green. I'm curious where everyone is getting to add the weight of the WDH to the tongue weight?

MitchF150

Puyallup, WA

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Posted: 09/29/19 09:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I didn't post my answer in regards of what kind of vehicle he had.. I was posting an answer to his question about if the WDH reduced the tongue weight on the hitch..

Tongue weight is tongue weight. All a WDH does is distribute that weight, end of story. In the wheelbarrow example, the bag of cement still weighs #80..

Mitch

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 09/29/19 10:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^Fair enough and true statement. The chassis and receiver do see all of the reaction from the tongue weight and lateral and longitudinal forces. However the wdh eases the load on the rear axle, suspension and wheels, which are typically the limiting factors for towing compared to the "frame" and hitch.
With the SRat Durango having a solid rear axle and quite literally a drivetrain and brakes that are either on par or better than a 3/4ton truck, combined with low CoG, stiff handling and about the best technology available for stability control it is actually overkill for towing "only" 8700lbs.
If in sport or track mode, that's like tow haul or super tow haul mode and stopping is aided by a transmission that will rip off high rpm, locked tq converter downshifts as fast as the 6 piston brembos can clamp down on drilled and slotted rotors that are bigger than the rotors on my diesel cummins, with brake pads designed for track use. Again better "equipment" than most HD trucks.

IIMO the only "weak" points if you can call them that is the active suspension damping that will get a hard workout in the rear and coils that are guaranteed softer than a 1/2 ton truck (a little).

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 09/29/19 10:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd bet a weeks pay that a SRT Durango could out handle, brake quicker and accelerate quicker with a 4 ton trailer than a newer 3/4 ton gasser. Plus it weighs about the same as an average 1/2 ton pickup with only slightly less gvw.
Remember, the Europeans, Ruskies and our favorite Aussie Robert Ryan and his whole country tow the same size trailers with millions of much smaller, lighter, less powerful "trucks".

MitchF150

Puyallup, WA

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Posted: 09/30/19 12:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

...

* This post was edited 09/30/19 12:33am by MitchF150 *

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