Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Ideas from those of you who built your own hold downs
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 > Ideas from those of you who built your own hold downs

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GAR2

Illinois

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Posted: 09/26/19 06:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Greetings. Sorry for the long post.....I have started getting material together for building my own camper tie downs. I have been looking at the products on the market to get ideas. I have all the equipment and am an experienced Boilermaker Welder so no issues there. I haven’t bought the camper yet but am looking at models around 2500# dry weight. My plan is to buy spring loaded turn buckles (fast guns) so all I’ll be doing is building the frame mounted, bolt on, no drilling hardware and rear extension tubes for the rear hitch already in place. I’m not going to pay someone over 1000$ for what I do everyday! So a couple questions:

The extensions with the bullet plate where the turn bucket hooks in, why do some of the manufactures have a “cut” from the outer edge into the holes? I found the same question and an answer on etrailer and it makes no sense whatsoever....... (artifacts left over from the plasm”. Sounds like poor CNC programming to me if that’s true.

Those of you that have built your own, any ideas, or thoughts of what you wish you had done, or changes you made to improve. Once built I will be having all the parts powder coated.

I have a 2002 F350 8’ bed dually and from pictures I’ve seen I thought something like the fast guns would be better than chains—don’t want anything hitting or rubbing on the truck. Am I correct on this or being overly cautious? Camper won’t be on a lot.....vacations, fishing/hunting trips.

Best Regards! Glenn


In the market to buy a T/C
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Lwiddis

Quartzsite AZ

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Posted: 09/26/19 06:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

“Am I correct on this or being overly cautious? Camper won’t be on a lot..”

Being an experienced boiler/welder maker doesn’t necessarily qualify you to make TC tie downs.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watts solar-parallel & MPPT, Trojan T-125s. TALL pole for flags. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, USF&WS, state & county camps. Bicyclist! 14 year Army vet - 11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560)


ykphil

Yellowknife

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Posted: 09/26/19 06:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My comment won't be very useful to you...but I am wondering if you could tell me the specs for the tubing you plan to use in the hitch. Thanks in advance.

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 09/26/19 07:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Think that “cut” might be to hook a chain into?

We don’t use the camper often either and I just had chains with simple turnbuckles and the spring loaded eyes that bolt to the brackets. No issues with hitting the truck. Don’t use enough that I saw value in the fastguns.


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AnEv942

CA

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Posted: 09/26/19 07:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Far as the lead in cut to slot, I noticed that on the newer units. I assumed just continous cutting, I certainly wouldnt add if your making.
[image]
The quick release are nice but the chains work (with some type of spring load). They shouldnt hit or rub if angles set up right, buuttt they are more prone when installing/taking off to swing into body.

* This post was edited 09/26/19 07:15pm by AnEv942 *


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GAR2

Illinois

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Posted: 09/26/19 07:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ykphil wrote:

My comment won't be very useful to you...but I am wondering if you could tell me the specs for the tubing you plan to use in the hitch. Thanks in advance.


My receiver hitch has the tubes exposed on the ends and 2” square tubing slides perfectly inside of it. I will use heavy wall (.250) tube and a hydraulic bender for the appropriate angle.

I am planning on a fairly short T/C like the Palomino HS 8801 so only a very short hitch extension would be needed if any for my boat/trailer (3500# max)

If I thought I would ever put a bigger camper on the truck I would swap my hitch out for a super hitch and the truss extension— but don’t think I’ll ever need it.

Kayteg1

California > Nevada

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Posted: 09/26/19 07:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Took me slightly over 1 hr to build my own rear tie-downs.
- starting with 3" receiver cross tube (on new Ford), I used a piece of old 2" receiver, who's 2.5 outside matched 2.5 inside the tube
-the 1.25 square tubing needed some shimming to weld it inside 2" tube
- 3" house foundation washers, easy available at HD, with couple of drilled holes in the corner made for outside plates
- my cross tube was sticking about 1/2" past the bracket, so I used that space to drill 1/4" holes, who matched with holes in butt of new tie-down allow a pin to be pushed in and secured from coming off.
Had pictures of it somewhere on this forum, but search engine here sucks.





mellow

Salisbury, MD

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Posted: 09/27/19 12:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Build a belly bar for the front and put screw eyes in the rear bumper (happijac), beef up the bumper first.


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GAR2

Illinois

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Posted: 09/27/19 03:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you all for your replies, after I have the parts powder coated and installed I try to post some pictures here. I have been unable to post pics using my iphone- hopefully I can post using my laptop and photobucket.

Kayteg1

California > Nevada

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Posted: 09/27/19 04:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Photobucket still sucks.
Use imgur http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=3

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