Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Ideas from those of you who built your own hold downs
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 > Ideas from those of you who built your own hold downs

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jimh425

Western MT

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Joined: 06/11/2006

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Posted: 01/19/20 06:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

GAR2 wrote:

I would also like to put the low profile, molded splash guards on my factory dual wheel fenders, I found some but I don’t want black. You would think they would make them in custom paint colors like they do for auto’s. I have been trying to find grey with no luck.


I like black, but you should be able to paint the black ones if that is what you want.


'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 Dbl Slide, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Air Bags, Hankook DH-01 225/19.5 Fs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.


JimK-NY

NY

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Posted: 01/19/20 07:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

With my first truck and TC, the RV dealer installed the Torklift tie down brackets. I replaced that truck last year and did my own install. The rear brackets for my 2018 Ram are pretty simple and anyone with the proper equipment and fabrication skills should be able to come up with a workable solution.

The front brackets are way more complicated at least for my 2018 Ram model. It took serious engineering design to build a bracket that fit the tight space. Even with a well designed bracket it took me way over an hour to install it. As I remember it the issue was the placement of a fuel line that made it difficult to design and install a bracket. Due to the complexities, I would guess it would be all but essential to copy the Torklift parts and also to reroute the fuel line (or a brake line, if my memory is incorrect).

covered wagon

USA

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Joined: 05/01/2004

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Posted: 01/19/20 10:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JimK-NY wrote:

With my first truck and TC, the RV dealer installed the Torklift tie down brackets. I replaced that truck last year and did my own install. The rear brackets for my 2018 Ram are pretty simple and anyone with the proper equipment and fabrication skills should be able to come up with a workable solution.

The front brackets are way more complicated at least for my 2018 Ram model. It took serious engineering design to build a bracket that fit the tight space. Even with a well designed bracket it took me way over an hour to install it. As I remember it the issue was the placement of a fuel line that made it difficult to design and install a bracket. Due to the complexities, I would guess it would be all but essential to copy the Torklift parts and also to reroute the fuel line (or a brake line, if my memory is incorrect).


For that reason I never liked bolting to the side of the frame. Too many things in the way and then having to slide a nut down a wire and try getting it to spin onto the bolt threads. What a pain it was.

These days I would think about a belly type bar instead for the front, at least, to go under the frame. I think I would figure out a way to clamp or hook that to the 'C' channel frame rather than drilling holes and damage the frame.

GAR2

Illinois

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Posted: 01/19/20 11:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I’ve already got the front frame brackets done, only thing in the way on the 2002 is the parking brake cable. Only one bolt needed fished through the frame and I welded a keeper to the bolt head so it can’t spin—as for getting the nut started a set of long handled forceps works great to keep fingers out of the way while starting the nut. Sounds like the newer trucks have more interference with the brackets. I’m happy with the hold down extension bars- I made them out of 2” square tube...... I can stand on them and rock the whole truck with no obvious deflection—I read on line that my fast guns are made for putting 300 pounds of tension on each one.


In the market to buy a T/C
2002 F350 4wd CC DRW 8’ box
Load Lifter 5000 rear air bags, front Timbrens
Rancho 9000 shocks
Brighton, Illinois

GAR2

Illinois

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Posted: 01/19/20 11:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No need to drill holes, at least on the ‘02.

GAR2

Illinois

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Posted: 01/25/20 09:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ykphil wrote:

My comment won't be very useful to you...but I am wondering if you could tell me the specs for the tubing you plan to use in the hitch. Thanks in advance.



Sorry for the delay to your question, lots going on - Lol. Anyway, I ended up using 2” square tubing with a .125 wall thickness for the removable extensions. At 24” long they have a structural load rating of 5,300 lbs. with acceptable deflection figured in. This gives them a higher load rating from what material I am seeing offered in a factory offer— but I believe the small addition in weight is worth what I gained and satisfaction of DIY. I work closely with our engineering department at my place of employment and know that most engineering firms look at minimum specifications and cutting costs by less material which equals big $ when your mass producing. Not the case for us DIY’s.

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