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PNW_Steve

Pacific Northwet & cold

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Posted: 10/08/19 06:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Curious, why don't you run the fridge on propane while underway?

I also wonder why your fridge misbehaves when 120v power is interrupted. I have owned a handful of RV absorption refrigerators and don't care for them. Their one redeeming quality is the ability to run on propane. I never had any issues with bad behavior when switching between 12vdc, propane and 120vac.

I suspect that your control board in the fridge may be failing.

If you are not using the propane capabilities you may want to consider replacing your fridge with a conventional fridge. They are MUCH more efficient on 120v than the RV absorption fridges. The 10.8 cu.ft. fridge I installed in my current 5er uses less than half the power that the 6.8cu.ft. unit that it replaced. I did have to make a minor modification to the cabinet. Not a big deal.

FWIW: I put 300 watts of solar on the roof. It is almost enough to keep the fridge happy. I had intended to put 600 watts up but the roof had too many obstructions.


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AnEv942

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Posted: 10/08/19 09:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Simply a matter of choice not using gas on the road. Many do-we don't.

Fridge behaves as designed.. To use AC fridge must be set to 'Auto'. What it actually does, being set to auto to use AC, is if AC unavailable (engine/inverter shut off) control tries to connect to gas. If propane off it cant and after a few attempts goes to 'check'. Once in check mode has to be reset. If AC restored before it searches for gas then goes to check it reconnects to AC. But that happens faster than reason for turning off engine IE fueling, eating lunch etc. Turning off 12v to control board when AC turned off keeps fridge from seeking alternate source.

As Kayteg1 asked about- if AC could be manually selected like gas or DC would be no issue.


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Kayteg1

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Posted: 10/08/19 09:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The "why drive with flame under the fridge to gas stations?" disputes seem to never end.
Lately I found new pictures so use it to trigger your imagination.
Here is 1 year old motorhome, who was driven with open propane tank.

[image]
[image]Click For Full-Size Image.

[image]
[image]Click For Full-Size Image.





Bedlam

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Posted: 10/09/19 08:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My last fridge was three way and would switch back forth between AC and LPG on the automatic setting without a problem. If AC and LPG were not available, it would switch to DC but would then stay there until you manually switched it out of that mode. I could run the fridge in manual mode choosing my source so it would not switch over but had to be careful with the automatic setting. Once while driving in high winds, the LPG flame blew out and it switched to DC and another time I ran out of LPG and it switched to DC. My previous camper did not have solar and only had the small charge line on the 7-blade connector, so I was drawing more than I was replenishing from the truck.

Running AC or or heavier DC from the truck would have solved my previous problem but by the time I experienced it the the first time, I already had upgrade plans for the truck and camper...

DC source was convenient for restricted LPG use areas like tunnels and ferries, but I passed on the option this time. I like some of the compressor fridges offered but still have a hard time justifying the price. Perhaps if my absorption fridge fails, I will revisit that option. Although I have seen some of the pictures of LPG fires caused by appliances, I am still confident in my systems to use them while driving.


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Grit dog

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Posted: 10/09/19 09:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^This
Or in short, the whole inverter setup etc is the long way around a short trip.
Besides, propane tanks don’t just spew gas wildly if the hose gets cut.
Check valve stops the flow if the flow rate exceeds a certain rate.
Ever open a tank valve too fast into an empty line and hear the click and no gas?

Now if the valve fails or the tank physically damaged, sure a propane tank can go up.
But having the valve open is not the cause of a propane explosion.


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Kayteg1

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Posted: 10/09/19 09:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:


But having the valve open is not the cause of a propane explosion.


Right, typical situation on motorhomes is the flat tire ripping inner fender, where propane lane rest, breaks copper tubing and spark from the rim hitting the pavement starts the fire.
Once the fire gets really hot, that's the time when tank explode.
We all accept different levels of hazard and danger.
For me running 120V cables between the cabin and camper is another hazard and that is what is stopping me from running the cable.
Would I do the project, I would pull a rubber hose or something over the cable where it runs between cabin and bed.

* This post was edited 10/09/19 09:58am by Kayteg1 *

AnEv942

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Posted: 10/09/19 11:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Interesting-different operation modes than ours. Can not select AC without going into auto. DC can only be manually selected (wont connect to DC in auto mode if AC or gas unavailable).

[image]
Operational pages 9 and 10
[image] [image]

As this isn't (wasn't) about the morbid fears of electricity or gas, why I/you should do this or that- just options and what I did don't feel a need to justify my decisions..so am not. If info can be gleaned from my original post by someone attempting similar project great, if it convinces them, thats dumb and not do or do differently- great. What I didn't intend was start another 'propane wars' thread.
Just find it curious sometimes folks seem to need to defend thier position /conclusions when it wasn't challenged?

* This post was edited 10/09/19 11:21am by AnEv942 *

AnEv942

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Posted: 10/09/19 11:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kayteg1 wrote:


What's wrong with running factory inverter at full load?

Though a little confused by Fords 400 watt rating and 300 if running (usuallly peak is X2 of constant load so not sure what they are referring to?. my understanding is rating of inverter should be intended load plus 10-20% above that. If the constant rating is truly 300watts and fridge heater is 325 that would be over its rating-if 400 very close. Whether harmful or affect longevity I dont know, I would assume factory inverters not inexpensive to replace.

ticki2

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Posted: 10/09/19 11:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kayteg1 wrote:

The "why drive with flame under the fridge to gas stations?" disputes seem to never end.
Lately I found new pictures so use it to trigger your imagination.
Here is 1 year old motorhome, who was driven with open propane tank.

[image]
[image]Click For Full-Size Image.

.
Unless one knows the back story there is no way to know what caused the fire . A dead shorted battery or loose electrical connection could have the same result . Certainly not all RV fires are caused by propane .


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Kayteg1

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Posted: 10/09/19 01:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I always look at the pictures of burn RVs and you can get pretty good guess what happen.
Modern RV are build with materials who will smolder, but will not make hot flames.
Lot of pictures ( I posted few just weeks ago) of refrigerator fires, who will consume side and ceiling above refrigerators, but seems either they die on their own, or are easy to extinguish.
It takes propane piping rupture to start big flames, who will generate hot fire blowing tanks and results that you can see on the picture.
Few youtube pictures show that Fire engines are not even coming close to hot RV fires in fear of tank and tires blows. They just let it burn.
Bottom line, I always had fridge operating on 12V in motorhomes and propane off at the tank.
Now with TC supplying 12V power via original wiring is not adequate and that is why we have topic's modifications.

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