Hot water tank not working on 110 VAC

[Cajun_Bill]

Haven't used my camper in about 6 months, but just bought a campsite where I can place it and have access to fishing, crabbing, etc. Anyway, went to use the hot water tank so I flipped on the breaker that I normally keep off to save on electricity use. Nothing, nada, so I put it on propane and it worked find. The question is, how to I troubleshoot the electrical side? Thinking the element maybe bad, but how to test? Also, there are two "reset" buttons that I pressed, but still nada. Any assistance would be appreciated.

[drsteve]

.

[wnjj]

drsteve wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
One Recommendation from RV101ByFred dot com

If the element is toast. Consider replacing with a 1500 watt 240 Volt element (That's 375 watts at 120 volts)

WHY: Well sometimes I park on a 30 amp site and let me tell you at 375 Watts for the water heater (about the same as the 325 watt fridge or the 400 watt HOTT ROD water heater conversion device) It may take 2 hours to Recover.. But I'm a whole lot less likely to have to go out in the rain and reset the park 30 amp breaker.

No. Watts are watts.

E = I x R The resistance of the element is a constant. So when the voltage doubles, the current is reduced by half.

Watts = Volts x current. Voltage doubled, current halved, watts stay constant.

Nope. Voltage doubled equals current doubled. Doubling both means 4x the power.

P = V^2 / R

[drsteve]

wa8yxm wrote:
One Recommendation from RV101ByFred dot com

If the element is toast. Consider replacing with a 1500 watt 240 Volt element (That's 375 watts at 120 volts)

WHY: Well sometimes I park on a 30 amp site and let me tell you at 375 Watts for the water heater (about the same as the 325 watt fridge or the 400 watt HOTT ROD water heater conversion device) It may take 2 hours to Recover.. But I'm a whole lot less likely to have to go out in the rain and reset the park 30 amp breaker.

No. Watts are watts.

E = I x R The resistance of the element is a constant. So when the voltage doubles, the current is reduced by half.

Watts = Volts x current. Voltage doubled, current halved, watts stay constant.

[Ranger_Smith]

Lynnmor wrote:

Ranger Smith wrote:

The element is a big resistor that heats up. Resistors dont short they always burn open

The resistance wire can short to ground.

It will generally short to ground for a second then open up. he current will blow the wire open

[Lynnmor]

Ranger Smith wrote:

The element is a big resistor that heats up. Resistors dont short they always burn open

The resistance wire can short to ground.

[wa8yxm]

One Recommendation from RV101ByFred dot com

If the element is toast. Consider replacing with a 1500 watt 240 Volt element (That's 375 watts at 120 volts)

WHY: Well sometimes I park on a 30 amp site and let me tell you at 375 Watts for the water heater (about the same as the 325 watt fridge or the 400 watt HOTT ROD water heater conversion device) It may take 2 hours to Recover.. But I'm a whole lot less likely to have to go out in the rain and reset the park 30 amp breaker.

[Old-Biscuit]

Ranger Smith wrote:

Cajun Bill wrote:
Oke Biscuit comes through again. While I don't have the camper here to look, I distinctly remember feeling resistance on the left reset button when I pressed it, but the WH still didn't work on AC. Will do voltmeter/ohmeter test once I get back to the camper, but I'm sure Ole is right, the element is either shorted or open. thanks for all the advice, especially the pix.

The element is a big resistor that heats up. Resistors dont short they always burn open

And yet tests for burnet out element (NO continuity thru element) and testing for shorted element (Continuity between element and flange) are the 2 tests recommended for any water heater using an electric element.

RV or Residential.
Burnt out deals with the element
Shorted deals with the 'insulator' between element and flange

[Ranger_Smith]

Cajun Bill wrote:
Oke Biscuit comes through again. While I don't have the camper here to look, I distinctly remember feeling resistance on the left reset button when I pressed it, but the WH still didn't work on AC. Will do voltmeter/ohmeter test once I get back to the camper, but I'm sure Ole is right, the element is either shorted or open. thanks for all the advice, especially the pix.

The element is a big resistor that heats up. Resistors dont short they always burn open

[wrgrs50s]

I had this problem before and I traced it to the outside off on switch that Old Biscuit referenced on the suburban units. It was stuck in the on position however it had melted the connections and no longer sent the voltage thru to the thermostat and on to the element. Just another area of common failure to check.

[Cajun_Bill]

Oke Biscuit comes through again. While I don't have the camper here to look, I distinctly remember feeling resistance on the left reset button when I pressed it, but the WH still didn't work on AC. Will do voltmeter/ohmeter test once I get back to the camper, but I'm sure Ole is right, the element is either shorted or open. thanks for all the advice, especially the pix.

[Old-Biscuit]

OP stated...." there are two "reset" buttons that I pressed, but still nada."

THAT is a Suburban (Atwood doesn't have RESET buttons)

Those reset buttons are for the High Temp T-stats....trip at 180*F but have to be Manually reset.
If Tripped you will feel resistance when push in on button
Left side is 120VAC for the Element
Right side s 12VDC for the propane


Suburban uses a simple 120VAC circuit
120VAC from Circuit Breaker to On/Off Switch (outside compartment lower left corner---RV Mfg might add an addtional in inside in series)
From On/Off Switch to High Temp T-stat then Normal Temp T-stat via connector wire then to element (Oval Cover Under Gas valve/burner tube)

Sometimes the High to Normal connector wire will burn into
Remove Push To Reset Cover and inspect
THis one shows burnt thru connector wire




Element....
Disconnect one wire
Voltmeter....check for continuity between the 2 terminals on eleemnt
NO continuity...element bad
Voltmeter....check for continuity between White wire termonal and element flange
YES continuity....element shorted

120VAC 1440W element
9 1/2" with a 1 1/4" thread (1 1/2" thin wall socket to R/R elemnt)

1440W element draws 12A
1500W element draws 12.5A and is readily available at most any hardware store
**1440W Suburban on line

[Dick_B]

I had some power wiring burn out near the switch at the heater so it's not always the element that does not work.

[Cajun_Bill]

Don't know. Camper is 90 miles away.

[rk911]

Cajun Bill wrote:
Haven't used my camper in about 6 months, but just bought a campsite where I can place it and have access to fishing, crabbing, etc. Anyway, went to use the hot water tank so I flipped on the breaker that I normally keep off to save on electricity use. Nothing, nada, so I put it on propane and it worked find. The question is, how to I troubleshoot the electrical side? Thinking the element maybe bad, but how to test? Also, there are two "reset" buttons that I pressed, but still nada. Any assistance would be appreciated.

atwood or suburban?