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 > Almost lost a mud flap...

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JRscooby

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Posted: 10/16/19 01:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

willald wrote:

Executive wrote:

FYI. Mud flaps are not to keep your toad clean. Mud flaps are there for the protection of other vehicles following you. Your rear tires, like those on trucks, pick up rocks and debris from the road and hurl them skyward looking for the windshield of some poor unsuspecting fool using the highway with you. The mud flap normally will direct that downward back toward the pavement.....Dennis


...With several feet of overhang behind the rear axles, and a towed vehicle behind that....I'm having a hard time understanding how debris/rocks thrown upward by the rear tires could hit anything but the underside of the Motorhome or your own towed vehicle. Sooo, not quite following you on how mud flaps would be for protection of vehicles other than your own.

If we were talking about a dually pickup or other vehicle with very little rear overhang and not towing anything, I'd agree. That's not really the case, though.

Be that as it may, I definitely will be fixing the mud flap before the Motorhome rolls again. We don't have any trips planned for a while, anyway.

Will


For years, the reason I did so much work to make it easy to put flaps back on is backing up on soft ground it is easy to back over them, tear them off. Then if a LEO saw me on the way home, I would pay a fine, and my truck impounded until the flap was in place. Of course, no RVer is subject to the safety laws CMVs are.

soren

Lancaster County PA

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Posted: 10/20/19 07:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

willald wrote:

Executive wrote:

FYI. Mud flaps are not to keep your toad clean. Mud flaps are there for the protection of other vehicles following you. Your rear tires, like those on trucks, pick up rocks and debris from the road and hurl them skyward looking for the windshield of some poor unsuspecting fool using the highway with you. The mud flap normally will direct that downward back toward the pavement.....Dennis


...With several feet of overhang behind the rear axles, and a towed vehicle behind that....I'm having a hard time understanding how debris/rocks thrown upward by the rear tires could hit anything but the underside of the Motorhome or your own towed vehicle. Sooo, not quite following you on how mud flaps would be for protection of vehicles other than your own.

If we were talking about a dually pickup or other vehicle with very little rear overhang and not towing anything, I'd agree. That's not really the case, though.

Be that as it may, I definitely will be fixing the mud flap before the Motorhome rolls again. We don't have any trips planned for a while, anyway.

Will


I've seen something that is pretty obvious to me, but have been vigorously debated here in the past. When you have a flap that hangs low below the rear bumper of a class A, you can do significant damage to a toad. The problem is that the coach bobs up and down, and occasionally the rear flap with touch the road and sweep the surface. This can pick up gravel and pelt the toad. On one of my many trips from the east coast to AK I was filling up on the Kenai, and noticed a guy pulling a car with an absolutely trashed windshield. He had an older gas coach that sat pretty low, and had a serious rear overhang. He also had a flap across the rear that was about 4" off the road, when everything was level. I asked about the windshield and he didn't have a clue as to why it was slowing being reduced to a pile of shards. It literally had at least five side to side cracks, and I was surprised that it wasn't bowed inward at that point. I mentioned that it was probably his mud flap doing the damage, and he looked at me like I was an idiot. Flaps that are high and tight to the duals are no issues. a giant rubber squeegee riding just above the road, and 12' or more behind the duals? maybe not the greatest idea, IMHO.

Horsedoc

Dixie --- N. Georgia

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Posted: 10/21/19 08:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

Warning! Drilling is not hard, but it will heat a bit to the point it can not be sharpened. I ground a dull point on a piece of half inch all-thread about a foot long, put a piece of PCV pipe between nuts on the other end. Lay the flap on 2Xs with a gap where you want the hole. Heat the point, and shove it thru the flap, nice round hole for the 3/8 bolt.


What? Synthetic rubber hard enough to heat and ruin a drill bit? Really?


horsedoc
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JRscooby

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Posted: 10/21/19 08:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Horsedoc wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

Warning! Drilling is not hard, but it will heat a bit to the point it can not be sharpened. I ground a dull point on a piece of half inch all-thread about a foot long, put a piece of PCV pipe between nuts on the other end. Lay the flap on 2Xs with a gap where you want the hole. Heat the point, and shove it thru the flap, nice round hole for the 3/8 bolt.


What? Synthetic rubber hard enough to heat and ruin a drill bit? Really?


Yes, the good flaps are about half inch thick. After the cut, the rubber has more friction on the bit than steel. A half inch bit will leave a hole that fits tight on a 3/8 bolt.
You can use or ignore what I say, cost me the same. But I have mounted a lot of mudflaps in about 35 years of working trucks.

Horsedoc

Dixie --- N. Georgia

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Posted: 10/21/19 09:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cool your jets scooby. No one was trying to insult you. Never heard of such however.

willald

GA

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Posted: 10/21/19 02:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

Horsedoc wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

Warning! Drilling is not hard, but it will heat a bit to the point it can not be sharpened. I ground a dull point on a piece of half inch all-thread about a foot long, put a piece of PCV pipe between nuts on the other end. Lay the flap on 2Xs with a gap where you want the hole. Heat the point, and shove it thru the flap, nice round hole for the 3/8 bolt.


What? Synthetic rubber hard enough to heat and ruin a drill bit? Really?


Yes, the good flaps are about half inch thick. After the cut, the rubber has more friction on the bit than steel. A half inch bit will leave a hole that fits tight on a 3/8 bolt.
You can use or ignore what I say, cost me the same. But I have mounted a lot of mudflaps in about 35 years of working trucks.


Wow, never would've thought that rubber from mud flaps could heat a drill bit up like this!

Thanks for the heads up, JRScooby. Your solution there seems a bit extreme, seems like you'd have to get that piece of all-thread awfully hot to be able to shove it through and cut the hole in the rubber! Not sure I'm going to try that. I think instead, I'll just find an old drill bit I'm not too worried about losing, and use that. I have tons of old drill bits laying around.

Will

JRscooby

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Posted: 10/21/19 04:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Horsedoc wrote:

cool your jets scooby. No one was trying to insult you. Never heard of such however.


I'm not mad. But reading;
"What? Synthetic rubber hard enough to heat and ruin a drill bit? Really?"
I assumed I was not believed. That is fine, I don't believe a lot of what I read on the 'net. I have no education but try to explain what I have seen. I ruined a few bits before I branded myself with one.


willald wrote:


Wow, never would've thought that rubber from mud flaps could heat a drill bit up like this!

Thanks for the heads up, JRScooby. Your solution there seems a bit extreme, seems like you'd have to get that piece of all-thread awfully hot to be able to shove it through and cut the hole in the rubber! Not sure I'm going to try that. I think instead, I'll just find an old drill bit I'm not too worried about losing, and use that. I have tons of old drill bits laying around.

Will


Cherry red, do 2 holes, and heat it again. LOL
Yes, most OTR trucks never need new flaps unless driver backs up on a curb. But say your hauling rock for a new sewer line, they combine the beans, and we are packing a jag across the field. That is why I put 2 rows of holes across the bottom, and one row below the originals when mounting new flaps. (Also cut air hose to slide over bolts, keep threads clean. With a air ratchet, driver could but flap back on in minutes. One old Pete I mounted the flaps on a shaft, used air cylinder to rotate shaft to get the flaps up and back when in reverse.
Bits less than 1/4 inch where "throw away" but I always wanted to sharpen above 3/8. But a bit that has drilled rubber, you can sharpen easy, but it is dull before you can drill a hole.
No point in drilling a small hole to start, rubber drills easy, and you just get 2 bits hot.

willald

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Posted: 10/22/19 08:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:


Cherry red, do 2 holes, and heat it again.....


...You get the threaded rod 'cherry red' hot?! Yikes! How you get it that hot?

Sounds like a good way to burn yourself really, really bad! I'll sacrifice 3 or 4 drill bits before I risk getting burnt that bad.

I'm going to guess with the kind of work you did for years with heavy trucks, you were used to working with stuff that hot all the time and know how to do it without burning yourself. I'd almost certainly get burnt/branded if I tried something like that.

Still, thanks for all your insight. Definitely learned a few things from this (like to avoid backing up over a curb!)


Will and Cheryl
2012 FR Georgetown 351DS on F53 (V10) Chassis
See it here

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