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 > Engine Series * Update 1 * Update 2 * Update 3 * STARTUP

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Kayteg1

California > Nevada

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Posted: 10/22/19 01:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Get some Formula 303 and spray it on plastics and rubber.
That will not only make them look good, but will actually extend their life.





Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli

Seattle

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Posted: 10/22/19 02:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli wrote:

jimh425 wrote:

Just wondering, why did you decide to stay with the 5.4 instead of a larger engine?


Because you have to change the wire harness, sensors, computer, and other issues whereas this pops right in. The 40 overbore makes it about a 338 cubic inch engine now. It's a lot tighter as a new engine, should produce more power, better mileage... we'll see after some miles.


Interesting, so you bought a crate 40 over long block presuming?
What's it rated at compared to the stock 5.4? Any other performance components in the engine porting, cams etc?


Engine is all stock, re-manufactured by FORD. There might be a tiny increase in compression. It does have an improved oil pump. No other mods. Electronic controlled engines aren't like the good old days when you could jet the carb, adjust timing , etc... Now days you change anything like larger injectors, bigger cam, you'll have to get a chip programmed for the changes you made or connect a computer with the tuning program and make those adjustments yourself. There are people that can do it, I don't have that stuff in my garage. I read in a performance magazine a few years back about flow benching 5.4 liter 2 valve heads. After some trial and error, the consensus was FORD really did their homework on the heads and they didn't develop significant flow improvement over stock.
I can feel the engine is more responsive than the old one was. I also noticed the power brakes seem to grab harder. There could be greater manifold vacuum now too.
The next things to go wrong will all be drive train. 4x4 transfer case axel gears, transmission, front springs are on the short list which will have my suspension setup for the camper better.


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Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli

Seattle

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Posted: 10/22/19 02:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kayteg1 wrote:

Get some Formula 303 and spray it on plastics and rubber.
That will not only make them look good, but will actually extend their life.


I will try that.

wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

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Posted: 10/22/19 02:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When do we find out what happened to the old one? I know, one thing at a time...patience.

Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli

Seattle

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Posted: 10/22/19 03:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wnjj wrote:

When do we find out what happened to the old one? I know, one thing at a time...patience.


It's a certainty the oil system failed in one of two ways. Either catastrophic failure of the pump, or a crack formed in the pickup tube to the oil pan sump. There was little oil in the filter when I removed it. Usually I get covered in oil draining down from it as it's unscrewed. My feeling is a crack formed in the tube causing a loss of vacuum to draw up oil. It could however draw in air and ran air through the system. The core is back in the crate and more effort than I need right now to confirm the ideas.

jimh425

Western MT

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Posted: 10/22/19 04:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Does your truck have an oil pressure sensor?


'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 Dbl Slide, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Air Bags, Hankook DH-01 225/19.5 Fs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.


Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli

Seattle

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Posted: 10/22/19 06:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jimh425 wrote:

Does your truck have an oil pressure sensor?


It has the factory gauge and idiot light. I'm looking at getting a gauge set that goes on the left door column. Good visibility. Also need to find a circulating block heater. New block doesn't have one.

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