water heater anode rod

[Rwake901]

How often should I replace the water heater anode rod and are they pretty much all the same when it comes to purchasing one? Thanks

[Cummins12V98]

As mentioned all depends on the water. Just checked mine today and flushed out the tank. Tank was very clean. This has 3 full years of full time use. Mostly West coast.

Be sure to turn off the water heater switch!!!

I use, Permatex 56521 High Performance Thread Sealant, 50 ml $12.49 AMAZON. Use it on any pipe fittings like fill and drain on my transfer case.

[Goostoff]

I took it out and tossed it. Replaced it with a valve. When the weekend it over I open the valve and drain the water heater. This also makes winterizing easier as well. Been doing this for years and never had an issue. We are regular campers and really dont need to drain it but if you dont camp ofter you want to drain it anyway just so the water doesnt turn nasty and stink up the camper as soon as you run the hot water

[larry_barnhart]

this is what I know. We winter in Az for 6 months. I drain the water heater during the winter and then flush the white crud out from the terrible water here. Once I uses more than enough telfon tape and then noticed later when cleaning again the rod was looking like when I installed it. Plus some rust in the water when draining. I replaced the heater when we were home just because. Also had an older friend that has his neighbor replace the rod with a plug and a valve to drain the tank and the water was a mess with rust. The vinegar cleans the relief and the deposits that were on the valve were gone that could not seal. A lite tap on the end helps if water is leaking. Nice to hear all of the comments above. Never know everything even when my wife tells me"you think you know everything" chevman

[Lynnmor]

wildtoad wrote:
After replacing this small one, we drained the main wh (40 g) for the house and it had some sludge but nothing like what the little one had. It too has had no maintenance until just now, but it’s still going.

So was there anything left of the anode in the 40 gal. water heater?

[wildtoad]

As luck would have it I had to have my small 6 gallon water heater, used to support the kitchen of my log cabin, replaced as the top rusted out. Here are some things I observed. One, is it lasted about 10 years with zero maintenance, never replaced the anode rod, never drained it. Never liked crawling under the house. When my friend the plumber removed the old unit, we drained it in the yard. Lots and lots of broken sludge, bits and pieces of metal, just basically a disgusting mess. After replacing this small one, we drained the main wh (40 g) for the house and it had some sludge but nothing like what the little one had. It too has had no maintenance until just now, but it’s still going.

Upon reading the manual for the new unit, I read that the anode rode is important to prevent the tank from rusting, and should be inspected every three years or so. In the same section the manual states that artificially soften water INCREASES the need for the anode rod due to the softening process.

So I guess I’m adding change the rod in more than just mh.

On another topic, I asked him about the relief valve/closed systems/ drip issue that many of us have with Suburban who’s. His first response was that I should put a small expansion tank on it. So he is going to get one and install it. BTW he mentioned that it is now code for new construction (at least here) that wh’s have an expansion tank.

Informative yet expensive morning

[zigzagrv]

"Ron if too much telfon tape is used the rod won't work because the treads need to touch the tank's treads. The reason I switched to pipe compound. Also the tank needs to have an air chamber. The relief valve can leak because of no place for the water to go when hot."

Larry, I don't use Teflon tape or pipe compound. Just a thin coating of grease on the threads so they don't seize/rust.

[wildtoad]

Thanks for all the input on how to solve my issue with the water heater. Just saying, that I have tried all of the suggestions except perhaps the soak in vinegar but didn’t think it would help when brand new ones do the same thing.

Lynnmor I use your method as I do not want to even look at that valve during the process.

[larry_barnhart]

zigzagrv wrote:
I have owned my mh for over 12 years and have never replaced the anode rod in my Suburban water heater. I remove it every year when winterizing and there are gelatinous blobs accumulated on it and some minor pitting, but it is still about the same thickness and length of a new one. I have used water from all over the country and it stays in there till I drain it to winterize. I do have a spare rod, buthave never seen the need to replace the old one.

Ron if too much telfon tape is used the rod won't work because the treads need to touch the tank's treads. The reason I switched to pipe compound. Also the tank needs to have an air chamber. The relief valve can leak because of no place for the water to go when hot.

chevman

[Lynnmor]

The Suburban manual says this:
To replenish this air pocket: 1.Turn off water heater. 2.Turn off cold water supply line. 3.Open a faucet in the RV. 4.Pull out on the handle of the Pressure Relief (P & T) Valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops. 5.Release handle on P & T Valve - it should snap closed. 6.Close faucet and turn on cold water supply; as the tank fills, the air pocket will develop.

I don't quite agree with this method because the air pocket will be very small. The reason is that only the space above the valve will have the air and it will be compressed when the tank is filled.

To have a larger air pocket, simply drain the water heater and refill.

[larry_barnhart]

the relief valve can have build up and not allow it shut off tight. Remove it and soak it in vinegar and it will look new again. chevman

[wildtoad]

Further when it’s time to drain the system I never mess with the relief valve just open a faucet in the kitchen to help it drain. The way I figure it nothing good happens when you open and close that valve.

[wildtoad]

Dutchman... the word “spew” was the first word that came to mind to describe the flow as “Drip” did not seem adequate. To be clear the relief valve only drips an the end of a heating cycle which seems “normal” and according to the manual expected and describes a temporary remedy. I have done the steps described from the manual and the various threads on the subject on this forum over the years. I have replaced the relief valve thrice times and not much help. Recently I actually got through three days worth of heating cycles with no drip but low and behold it starts. The manual suggests that if the normal procedures don’t work perhaps I should install small pressure tank just before where the cold water enters the heater. Again this indicates to me that Suburban knows it’s a problem (probably not much more than an annoyance) and have chosen not to engineer a permanent remedy. We did this to some degree when working for a software company when a customer would find a problem. We would devise a workaround until we could solve the actual problem. But we usually did go fix it.

On edit: I tested the water temp at my kitchen sink which sits about a foot above the wh and it was dead on factory spec.

[colliehauler]

If you go thru a anode rod in a year it is a sure sign the rod is truly needed to protect the water heater. Penny wise pound foolish to replace the anode rod with a plastic plug.

[ScottG]

Anodes last a long, long time here as well. Our water is super soft so it doesn't have much work to do.