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 > 28 Foot / Chevy Chassis, Looking to upgrade suspension...

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LostInOz

Pittsburg, KS

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Posted: 10/29/19 04:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey everyone, new to the forum. Proud owner of a "new to me" 2006 Chateau Sport By Four Winds 28 Ft which is running on a Chevy chassis.

Just wondering if anyone else with a Chevy Express 3500 van chassis has taken it upon themselves to improve the ride of their rig, and what the best "bang for the buck" is in regards to improving the ride of my RV.

My wife tries to help drive it, but between the sway when a truck comes by, I can't help but think we can do some things to improve the ride. Also get a fair amount of 'porpoising' when going over bumps.

It does have some kind of anti-sway bar on it already, but maybe it needs a beefier one?

The rig has 50,000 miles on it, so I would imagine upgrading the shocks would be the first place to start?

What about sumo springs? Too many options... not sure where to start. Thanks in advance.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 10/29/19 05:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I found air tabs improved wind gust control caused by large trucks going the opposite direction.

I'm currently getting new springs that will have more carrying capacity. RV's are often over loaded in that area. The old springs are from 2004. One leaf had broken and the air bag brackets had broke free from the frame. I'm hoping for a large improvement in the ride.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

IAMICHABOD

Sunny So Cal 90713

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Posted: 10/29/19 06:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2006 Tioga 26Q on a Chevy Chassis

I had the porpoising problem on mine,the shocks were the original when I bought it at about 90000 miles. I replaced them with Bilsteins front and rear.This got rid of the porpoising and all the side lean.

Shock Warehouse usually has the best prices. On Edit I see that Amazon is even cheaper

The already great ride was improved with this simple addition.

It already has the largest sway bars as original equipment,I might check and see if all the mounting bushings are in good shape other than that you should be good to go.

* This post was edited 10/29/19 06:36pm by IAMICHABOD *


2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental

Buying A Rental Class C

Chevrolet Based Class C


Lwiddis

Los Angeles area :(

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Posted: 10/29/19 06:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

New shocks are a relatively inexpensive first step IMO.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watts solar-parallel & MPPT, Trojan T-125s. TALL pole for flags. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, USF&WS, state & county camps. Bicyclist! 14 year Army vet - 11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560)


LostInOz

Pittsburg, KS

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Posted: 10/29/19 08:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you for he suggestions. I'll get the shocks ordered.

Any opinion on the sumo springs? I keep coming across references to them online and some people swear by them...

ron.dittmer

North-East Illinois

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Posted: 10/29/19 08:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi LostInOz,

I love your name considering you live in Kansas. [emoticon]

We have a 2007 Ford E350, but my comments will apply to your Chevy.

If buying new shocks, I highly recommend the Heavy Duty (HD) Bilstein shocks. CLICKING HERE will take you to my write-up with many pictures showing why the HD bilstein is the best choice for a motor home application. Not just the shock itself, but the mounting hardware is heavy duty. Then consider that wimpy hardware failed on my old shocks. If you wonder, I CANNOT say the "HD" rating makes a rougher ride. They simply offer great handling.

You have a front and rear stabilizer bar on your Chevy. Before replacing them, make sure their end links are tight. Any play in them will reduce the bar's effectiveness. With 50,000 miles driven, it's likely the end links need tightening. The 4 rubber bushings that make up the soft part of each end link might also be worn to the point of needing replacement. Sometimes they can wear to the point of being missing.

Over-inflated tires, exceeding the requirement of your actual load, will also cause the rig to wander excessively along with offering a rougher ride. But your fuel economy would improve slightly.

* This post was last edited 10/30/19 06:24am by ron.dittmer *   View edit history


2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow


ItsyRV

Desert SW

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Posted: 10/29/19 09:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Also, don't overlook the sway bar bushings. They don't last forever and they do wear out. I know people who spent good money on a new sway bar when all that was needed was a set of inexpensive new bushings.


1994 Itasca SunDancer 21RB - Chevy G-30 chassis.


pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 10/29/19 10:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ron.dittmer,

Thanks for taking the time to document your experience with shocks.

IAMICHABOD

Sunny So Cal 90713

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Posted: 10/29/19 10:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LostInOz wrote:


Any opinion on the sumo springs? I keep coming across references to them online and some people swear by them...


Most of the good reviews that I have seen are for the Ford Chassis and these are the larger heavier ones to help with the harsh ride that they have.

I see no reason for them on a smaller Chevy Chassis that ride smoother than the Fords I would try the shocks first.

jjrbus

FT Myers FL

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Posted: 10/30/19 05:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I bought a 94 Toyota and on the drive home it felt like it was going to tip over in turns, trucks pushed it all over the road and it wandered, taking constant steering adjustments.

Replaced all bushings with a bushing kit from energy suspension, new KYB shocks, new air springs and replaced all steering components. Tie rod ends, ball joints etc. Handles at least 5000 times better now. Sounds like a lot, but I knew it would need to be done when I bought it.

Tires were shot so I replaced them and the tire place inflated them to the max rating on the side wall 65 psi. I though I was going to lose my teeth or hurt my back on the way home. Like riding on bowling balls! Am I the only person that has heard of load and inflation tables?

Start with the basics and see what happens, they will never handle like a car.

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