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Grease gun/ grease recommendations

Peter2516
Explorer
Explorer
For EZ lube axle, what brand do you use for the wheel bearing grease.
Thank you -Peter
44 REPLIES 44

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
Huntindog wrote:
Do not use a grease gun on your axles.
In order to use this zerk feature, and completely purge the old grease out (maybe) it would take almost 4 tubes of grease at each greasing.... And it would most likely get past the inner seals and onto the brakes.
That creates quite a mess... Just don't do it.


DITTO!!!!

Watch this video about EZ Lube axles.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

rbpru
Explorer
Explorer
EZ lubes are here, they have been here for a long time and will remain here.

If you do not like them, do it the old way, if you worry or fret about it, do it the old way.

If you are like the majority you will use the EZ lubes as directed or take your trailer to a service center or dealer, who will use them as directed.

Just like winterizing or doing the brakes, there are as many opinions about how to do it, as people doing it.

Good luck
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

Crabbypatty
Explorer
Explorer
I repack my bearings annually. Its not hard. While you have systems with zerk fittings to put in a few squirts, you could also have a leaking seal that your not aware of. You could also be greasing your brake pads. You can pay about $50 a wheel or do it yourself. I carry extra bearings and brake assembly's one right one left. Experience is when you stuck hundreds of miles from home with a brake issue and have to fix it in the campground, driving many miles to get to a parts store. Not fun.

I use Kendell 427 Blu High Temp grease. Carry a couple tubes as well as the grease tub, plus extra bearings and seals. This year I broke down for $10 and bought a bearing packer to speed it up. You can Youtube and see videos to teach. When I turn the key I dont want to think about it and enjoy the ride. An ounce of prevention in the beginning of the season goes a long way to an enjoyable trip.

Happy Trails
John, Lisa & Tara:B:C:)
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campigloo
Explorer
Explorer
Huntindog wrote:
I just looked at the maintenence schedule on Dexters site.

It states that annual inspection of the bearings is REQUIRED.
Since an inspection means you gotta disasemble it..... You might as well hand pack them at that time....Which means that the EZ lube feature is worthless. All downsides and no upsides.


Yeah youโ€™re right! And while you have them out wash them before the fresh high heat grease goes in.

Huntindog
Explorer
Explorer
I just looked at the maintenence schedule on Dexters site.

It states that annual inspection of the bearings is REQUIRED.
Since an inspection means you gotta disasemble it..... You might as well hand pack them at that time....Which means that the EZ lube feature is worthless. All downsides and no upsides.
Huntindog
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wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
campigloo wrote:
The void in the hub is meant to dissipate heat. Donโ€™t fill it with grease. Best to grease and inspect them by hand.
You seem like the really smart silent type. Thanks for posting i will remember your advice.

mosseater
Explorer
Explorer
It didn't take me long to realize packing the hub is not only expensive, but pointless. I use the zerk once a year for a pump or three, then carefully use a grease needle to shoot in between the rollers on the outer bearing. Otherwise, repack by hand or grease packer. Only takes about 2 or 3 pumps to properly pack a bearing that size. You want to fill the hub, be my guest. I repack by hand every 5 years or so. Why would anyone want to force contaminated grease from the inner bearing through the outer bearing???
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campigloo
Explorer
Explorer
The void in the hub is meant to dissipate heat. Donโ€™t fill it with grease. Best to grease and inspect them by hand.

Vintage465
Explorer III
Explorer III
bpounds wrote:
Problem with that ^ theory is that there is a rubber boot built into the hub cover cap that expands to relieve any pressure. On hot runs I see those boots bulged outward and cold they are pulled inward.


Well, we all seem to have different thoughts on this subject. It works for some and not for others. One thing for certain, when the pressure builds in the hub the grease is going to take the path of least resistance. In my case it was the seals into the drums, possibly because my coach had between 25 and 30 thousand miles on the seals.
V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!

azdryheat
Explorer
Explorer
I've used Lucas Red N Tacky #2 and Mystik Red #2.
2013 Chevy 3500HD CC dually
2014 Voltage 3600 toy hauler
2019 RZR 1000XP TRE

Wishin
Explorer
Explorer
I think another factor in using the grease zerk (EZ Lube) feature is the temperature of the grease and bearings. If you are doing this on a cold spring day in cold weather to get ready to go on the first trip of the year, the grease is much thicker and harder to work thru the bearings and possibly more likely to push out the axle seal and get into your brakes. Might be better to do it in the middle of the summer on a 90 degree day. Also, make sure the trailer wheel is off the ground and rotating while you do it.

Me, I just do it manually by hand every 2 years or 10k miles. I have had one failure, not sure what caused it but the axle was likely over loaded as well. That is why my 8k lb trailer now has 5200 lb axles instead of 3500 lb axles. The bearings on the bigger axles are HUGE compared to the original bearings. I also monitor my bearings with an infrared heat gun to make sure they are staying cool. No issue the last few years with the bigger axles. Before I just check by hand so it is hard to say. It was also super hot the few days before I had my issue and I was in Arizona near the NM line when I saw smoke from the trailer. Fire extinguisher came in handy!

There are a lot of variables to consider to keep your bearings and brakes happy. Good luck.
2014 Wildwood 26TBSS - Upgraded with 5200lb axles and larger Goodyear ST tires
2003 Chevrolet 2500 4x4 Suburban 8.1L 4.10's

falconbrother
Explorer II
Explorer II
I use the EZ Lube feature every year. Never had a problem. I jack up the axle under the "U" bolt. Then I check/adjust the brakes, then I add a few squirts of grease till I see it pushing out of the front, while spinning the tire. Then on to the next axle. All four axles can be done in a half hour easy. I use the grease gun that I inherited from my grandfather. It's probably as old as I am.

Dexter video

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Old thread that got bumped but i recently did my truck front tire bearings. Read a lot about greases and settled on the fully synthetic valvoline. Its in the gun i dont have the model number but pretty sure its #4 on the list that was posted above.

I didnt expect to choose that grease. I kinda view Valvoline as midrange, while i view lucas and timkin as high quality. Not sure why maybe the advertisers got me. Have used Lucas products for years.

I forget what the heck i learned, but you need to look into the type of grease. There is lithium, moly, extra virgin olive oil. They all have benefits and negatives. They also dont play nice with each other.

Installed new ball joints and tie rods and also wanted the grease to be compatible with that. I wrote the company (detroit axle...fingers crossed...ive read mixed reviews...sure was cheap in price) and asked what they pumped in there. Again i dont remember what they said. But after all the nonsense i did end up learning the Valvoline fully synthetic would work great for my high speed wheel bearing as well as the low speed ball joints.

Biggest negative was i wanted red grease. Looks clean to me. Not even joking i was bummed that the grease i will never see wasnt red!!!

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
Grease guns?
Depends how much you use them or what level of convienence you want.
Manual , air powered or cordless electric. From cheap to expensive
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