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ccchuck

The Shoals, AL

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Posted: 11/01/19 10:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2oldman wrote:

Just an RV water pump...but you should use the one already there.


I do use the onboard one, but lately its doesn't (sorry about this) suck as well as it used to.


RVing since '74..


DFord

Near St Louis, MO

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Posted: 11/01/19 11:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not sucking is a whole another issue. Inside the "head" of the pump there are usually 3 diaphragms with lots of small holes in them. Without a filter on the inlet of the pump, all sorts of stuff gets stuck inside the pump and it's efficiency goes down. It's an easy fix you can do yourself by taking the pump out and removing the screws that hold the head together so you can get at the diaphragms. Wash them up to get all the little foreign pieces off them and put it all back together. The pump will work as good as new.

Don't waste your money on replacing the diaphragms (they wan't 1/2 as much as a new pump costs) but here's picture of what they look like:
[image]

* This post was edited 11/01/19 11:59am by DFord *


Don Ford
2004 Safari Trek 31SBD (F53/V10 20,500GVW)
'09 HHR 2LT or '97 Aerostar MiniVan (Remco driveshaft disconnect) for Towed vehicles
BlueOx Aventa II Towbar - ReadyBrake Inertia Brake System


hedgehopper

Denver

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Posted: 11/01/19 12:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ccchuck wrote:

I use a manual pump to winterize my class c, works ok, but thought I would see if a battery powered transfer pump that would connect my RV was available.
So far I haven't found one - anyone tried such?
After blowing out the lines with compressed air, I disconnect a pump fitting to let any remaining water drain. Then we open all the faucets and pour antifreeze in the toilet and all the drains. No pump needed.

* This post was edited 11/01/19 12:39pm by hedgehopper *

DutchmenSport

Indiana

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Posted: 11/01/19 01:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Before buying a new pump, I'd get the old on-board pump fixed or replaced with a new one. They aren't THAT expensive, and the pipes just screw attach to the pump, unless yours is a bayonet type connect.

But if you really want another pump, we purchased a 120 volt AC water transfer pump from Lowe's and use it to transfer water from a 35 gallon water tank when we are not on full hook-up sites. The pump is AC electric, but we also have a 400 watt inverter we keep in the truck all the time. In the event we need to transfer water and we are off grid, I can always plug in the inverter and still have AC power for the pump (which I've actually done a couple times over the years).

If it were me, I'd probably just replace the on-board pump with a new one before buying a secondary one.

hedgehopper

Denver

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Posted: 11/02/19 11:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hedgehopper wrote:

ccchuck wrote:

I use a manual pump to winterize my class c, works ok, but thought I would see if a battery powered transfer pump that would connect my RV was available.
So far I haven't found one - anyone tried such?
After blowing out the lines with compressed air, I disconnect a pump fitting to let any remaining water drain. Then we open all the faucets and pour antifreeze in the toilet and all the drains. No pump needed.
Would someone please explain why a pump is needed for winterizing? What's wrong with my method?

DutchmenSport

Indiana

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Posted: 11/03/19 05:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hedgehopper wrote:

...Would someone please explain why a pump is needed for winterizing? What's wrong with my method?


Nothing wrong with your method. Lots of folks winterize their water lines using the compressed air method. The only drawback with this method is, sometimes water lines may have dips in them, or low spots and all the water may not successfully extract, subject to freezing. However, with all pressure off and space for ice to expand, nothing ever gets damaged.

Any water droplets left in the system will freeze. Depending upon where those droplets remain could potentially freeze and of course, any water that freezes will expand. If those droplets are in water valves, or joints, it's possible they could expand enough to cause leaks.

Using RV antifreeze guarantees that all water in the system is replaced with something that will not freeze (or should I say ... "expand" because RV antifreeze still freezes), including the water pump itself. All water, droplets, everything is displaced with RV antifreeze.

As stated, blowing air works, and is successful for lots of folks. And quite frankly, I've not heard of anyone having any problems after using the blow method.

Two travel trailers ago, I used the blow method. To my sad disappointment though, the outside shower head on the end of the hose still split over the winter. Replacing it was easy, but after that I returned back to the Antifreeze method and been doing so ever since.

ccchuck

The Shoals, AL

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Posted: 11/03/19 09:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I appreciate all the help-
as usual I learned some things, all of you who answered, my thanks.

hedgehopper

Denver

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Posted: 11/03/19 09:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DutchmanSport wrote:

Two travel trailers ago, I used the blow method. To my sad disappointment though, the outside shower head on the end of the hose still split over the winter. Replacing it was easy, but after that I returned back to the Antifreeze method and been doing so ever since.
Had you blown compressed air through that shower head? If you did, why would it freeze?

* This post was edited 11/03/19 11:06am by hedgehopper *

JaxDad

Greater Toronto Area

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Posted: 11/04/19 05:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DutchmenSport wrote:


Nothing wrong with your method. Lots of folks winterize their water lines using the compressed air method. The only drawback with this method is, sometimes water lines may have dips in them, or low spots and all the water may not successfully extract, subject to freezing. However, with all pressure off and space for ice to expand, nothing ever gets damaged.

Any water droplets left in the system will freeze. Depending upon where those droplets remain could potentially freeze and of course, any water that freezes will expand. If those droplets are in water valves, or joints, it's possible they could expand enough to cause leaks.


As stated, blowing air works, and is successful for lots of folks. And quite frankly, I've not heard of anyone having any problems after using the blow method.

Two travel trailers ago, I used the blow method. To my sad disappointment though, the outside shower head on the end of the hose still split over the winter. Replacing it was easy, but after that I returned back to the Antifreeze method and been doing so ever since.


I see this over & over, do it wrong and blame the method.

I rarely see a big enough compressor being used and / or blowing out the system long enough.

I’ve even seen people using 12 volt portable compressors to ‘blow out’ the lines.

If done properly there will be no where near enough water left in the system to cause any damage whatsoever.

Because of my north - south travel numerous times over every winter I winterize my units more than once per month every year and have for many years, never had a problem.

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