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Running Lights Trouble

TexasDad
Explorer
Explorer
Suggestions for trouble shooting running lights. Currently the 2 front right and left (amber) running lights work. None of the (red) rear running lights come on. I have pulled the lights and confirmed that they are not blown. Checked for power at the light socket, none.
Shouldn't these lights be connected together, or is there a possible fuse to just the red running lights?

The Brake lights are functioning fine.
15 REPLIES 15

TexasDad
Explorer
Explorer
More details about 5th wheel.
2011 ForestRiver Wildcat 30QBT

Thanks for all the troubleshooting tips.

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Lynnmor wrote:
Still talking about testers when the two working lights tested everything to that point?


Not sure I agree 100%. I have seen trailers where a few lights ground by back-feeding thru the brake light circuit.


enblethen wrote:
What type of skin is on the rig, metal or fiberglass? many metal skinned rigs uses the skin as ground.


Yes, in times past this has been tried. If the trailer is doing it now, the best idea is pull in a ground wire.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
What type of skin is on the rig, metal or fiberglass? many metal skinned rigs uses the skin as ground.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
Still talking about testers when the two working lights tested everything to that point?

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
enblethen wrote:
This style for testing a standard seven way receptacle.7 way tester
Please clarify what is working. Do the taillights work? Does any of the small clearance lights work?


This style of "tester" can lead to a lot of wasted time. Yes, if you plug it in, and get no light out of the LEDs, you have a problem with the TV. But what happens way to often is you plug it in, all LEDs light as they should. So you "know" something is wrong with the trailer. Spend hours chasing ghosts around, take apart things, open no telling how many places to cause problems later. Finally you give up, call somebody that knows what they are doing. One stand of wire making contact will carry enough power to light that little LED right at the end of that short wire. Put the load of the longer wire, and many larger lights (even LED) and it will not carry. "Testers" like that are made to sell not to use.
I have worked on many light systems, mostly for guys that had to move, and had to have working lights to move. 1 light out? Start at light. More than 1? Start with ground.

DFord
Explorer
Explorer
TexasDad, just what are we dealing with here - a trailer/5th wheel or a motorhome? Running lights/marker lights to be more understandable to most folks.

I like the idea of checking the grounds at each bulb. The marker lights should share the same circuit with the tail lights.
Don Ford
2004 Safari Trek 31SBD (F53/V10 20,500GVW)
'09 HHR 2LT or '97 Aerostar MiniVan (Remco driveshaft disconnect) for Towed vehicles
BlueOx Aventa II Towbar - ReadyBrake Inertia Brake System

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
This style for testing a standard seven way receptacle.7 way tester
Please clarify what is working. Do the taillights work? Does any of the small clearance lights work?

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
gbopp wrote:
agesilaus wrote:
Get one of these and see if your truck is the problem.

Which item are you suggesting? Your link goes to a page of items on Amazon.


Does not matter which. Once you give the card number they all have done what they are designed to do; Take money out of your pocket.

Old_timer_Dave
Explorer
Explorer
A stupid idea but from the description the trailer sounds to have a central line and branches off to one or both sides. as to where the central line is located who knows but the manufacturer. It maybe a faulty bullet connector in line on the main positive.
dfhslm@telus.net
Dodge user

Mike_S_620
Explorer
Explorer
It sounds like you have a loose wire. A fuse would cause all the lights to turn off. I assume that you are talking about a trailer. If so, then having the front lights on shows that the TV plug is working. It is not likely to be the ground that is loose because the brake lights usually use the same ground as the running lights, if it was a ground then the brake lights would not work. It has to be the + wire that is bad. Most trailer lights are daisy chained, have wires that go from one light to the next to the next etc. When a wire gets lose everything after the loose spot turns off. In my trailer the chain starts at the front right, across the front to the left, down the left side, then across the back to the right side. If you follow that pattern I would remove the first light that is out from the trailer to get at the wires behind it. Look to see if there is a bad connection, and check the voltage at the wires. If everything looks good I would check the last light in the chain that is still on. If connections are tight at both lights, then probably a mouse has chewed the wires between.
1984 Shasta 2100 Travel Trailer
Lost the tow vehicle in the divorce, saving for a replacement.:M

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Amber AND red "running" or marker lights are all on the same circuit and IF there is a fuse on the trailer (most do not have a fuse) it would have to be good in order for the front makers to light up..

Rules out the vehicle AND a fuse on the trailer if the front ambers are working.

You have either a broken ground or broken marker light wire going back to the rear of your trailer.

Since the Stop/Turn lights are working that pretty much rules out a broken ground since the Stop/Turn lights share the ground wire used for the rear markers.

Pull the drivers side rear taillight and verify if you have power on the taillight marker.

No power there most likely a break from the front to back.

You can follow the TV to trailer cord on the tongue, back to the junction box on the trailer. In that junction box if you are lucky the manufacturer may have run the rear marker light wire to that box. Verify that all wires are connected properly.

You could run a temporary marker light wire from the front junction box of the trailer to the drivers rear tail marker and see if you get results (this effectively bypasses the wiring in between front and rear).

If the temporary bypass works then just find a permanent route to run the replacement wire along the underside of the RV.

Marker light wiring tends to be point to point (from marker to marker) making finding bad wiring a real joy sometimes..

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
If any of the running lights have power, you already tested the truck, no need for a tester. You need to find where the disconnect is, perhaps there is a common ground for the remaining lights.

Run a temporary ground wire from the frame to one of the failed lamps and see if it lights with the ones that work.

MitchF150
Explorer III
Explorer III
Check the ground wire(s) for the red running lights.. If you have power to the fronts, then you are getting power to that at the plug.
2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
agesilaus wrote:
Get one of these and see if your truck is the problem.

Which item are you suggesting? Your link goes to a page of items on Amazon.