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pigman1

Delaware

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Posted: 11/15/19 10:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have 2 of these (1500W ea.) that I got on sale about 3 years ago. Heaters Less than $20 each. We run these in Alaska unless temps are well below freezing and DO NOT have dedicated circuits, although each heater is on a separate circuit breaker protected circuit. In addition DW has a very small under desk type electric heater for the small half bath. In addition, we run a glove and boot drier when necessary. Boot drier. Have never popped a CB and when temps get very cold the standard rear LP heat takes care of the underdeck and tanks along with a 100W incandescent bulb in the wet bay.


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CFerguson

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Posted: 11/15/19 11:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wow, 5 pages in and only one person has pointed out that not using the furnace just may endanger your water tanks and lines. Sure on some RVs it wont matter, but on many others it certainly does.
Pennywise and pound foolish?

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 11/15/19 12:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cferguson and one person mentioned a solution to running 100% electric heat.


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ksg5000

Oregon

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Posted: 11/15/19 01:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

While watts may create the same amt of heat the big difference between heaters is distribution, sound, and quality of the thermostat. The quietest heater is likely the oil filled radiator type - love them but they often require a fan to distribute the heat and they are kinda bulky. Most of the inexpensive heaters you find at Walmart etc have fans that are either loud and/or so pathetic that the heat builds up near the heater which triggers the thermostat to shut off while the rig is still freezing cold.

I have used a boatload of heaters over the years. I currently use a Vornado which has sufficient air power to distribute heat quickly to the rest of the rig. It's not as quiet as advertised but it's OK. My runner up is to buy two cheapo Walmart specials and set them to "LOW" and place one in the front/back. If you these inexpensive heaters on low the heat will likely not build up enough near the heater to trigger the thermostat to shut off prematurely.


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bazar01

Georgia

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Posted: 11/15/19 03:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cougar28 wrote:

So what’s the difference in running a heat pump that a lot of rv’s have today and people using a 1500 watt electric heater? I guess people with the heat pumps is not abusing the system and people using a space heater is?


My 12,000 btu/hr mini split heat pump I installed only draws about 10 amps on a 120V power. Then the amperage drops as the room temperature gets closer to thermostat set point.
Heat output is about 3x the electrical power input and super quiet too.

Huntindog

Phoenix AZ

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Posted: 11/15/19 04:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cougar28 wrote:

For the most part I don’t think the people doing that with a 30 amp service is stealing. I think what there try to do is keep from tripping there 30 amp breaker at times. I know on my old 5th wheel it was a 30 amp. If the a/c was on and say the coffee pot maybe the water heater then someone used the microwave it would trip the breaker unless one was turned off for the time the microwave was used. I think the majority is just trying to prevent that from happening.
When that happens, they are using more than the 30 amps they are paying for.[emoticon]


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LarryJM

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Posted: 11/15/19 04:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gdetrailer wrote:


Personally to me, folks attempting to use only electric to heat a RV at a campground are abusing the campground owners good will and there are many places that recognize that abuse and charge more or may have meters..

Don't be so blasted cheap and ruin the goodwill for others by abusing the system.
'

I couldn't DISAGREE MORE ... GOOD WILL ... GIVE ME A BREAK. I pay for a site with either 30 or 50A service and generally it's 50A which often costs more than 30A and for that I have every right to use what I have paid for and that is 30 or 50A. During cold days I run up to 2 1500W heaters and supplement that with the gas furnace, mainly to ensure the enclosed underbelly area is heated to prevent things from freezing up.

Larry


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rhagfo

Portland, OR

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Posted: 11/15/19 04:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Cferguson and one person mentioned a solution to running 100% electric heat.


Well I was likely the one using 100% electric, using the RV Comfort Systems Cheap Heat. This an add-on to the gas furnace, so heat is distributed the same way. On a 30 amp service I get 1,800 watts (6,138 btu)of heat, on a 50 amp service I get 5,000 watts of heat (17,050 btu) the 50 amp is running on 220 volts.


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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 11/15/19 04:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nope, I run 100% electric heat at -34 f. My peak load is 7700 watts. I distribute the heat through the duct work by replacing the cold air return with twin window fans. I've added 2 auxiliary shore power cables, so my supply is 30 amp OEM, 20 amp, and 15 amp. I keep the propane furnace on but at a low temperature just in case there is a power outage.

I use electric heated carpets, oil filled heaters, a radiant heater as a back up should something need to be thawed, a fan heater, an electric mattress pad, and some "heat bars" (only 50 watts) next to the water pump.

rhagfo wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

Cferguson and one person mentioned a solution to running 100% electric heat.


Well I was likely the one using 100% electric, using the RV Comfort Systems Cheap Heat. This an add-on to the gas furnace, so heat is distributed the same way. On a 30 amp service I get 1,800 watts (6,138 btu)of heat, on a 50 amp service I get 5,000 watts of heat (17,050 btu) the 50 amp is running on 220 volts.


dieseltruckdriver

Black Hills of SD

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Posted: 11/15/19 05:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Huntindog wrote:

Not at all.
I think that whatever your 30 amp service can provide is justified.
But some seem the think that running another cord from a seperate outlet is OK.... I do not. Some even have gone to the trouble of adding a seperate way to get the power into their 30 amp unit... That in my eyes is theft. Often the park operator will just overlook it, as they do not want a confrontation. It is kind of like shoplifting. Everyone pays for it in the form of higher prices.
50 amp service generally costs more, as the park understands the electricity use will be higher

Well I have a separate outlet just for a space heater that plugs in to the 15 amp outlet. I have never been to a place that charges different fees for 30 or 50 amp service.

So explain how having that outlet that makes me a thief. I do it to ease the load on the rv wiring.

Broad generalizations really shouldn't be made.


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