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 > Please help me decide on a truck camper

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Eugarps

Hagerstown, MD

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Posted: 11/20/19 07:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ortfun,

I was just about to edit that. I requested a Cirrus brochure this evening and THERE ARE IN FACT TWO BATTERIES ON THE CIRRUS 820. I’m sorry for any confusion I’ve caused.

Bill

mountainkowboy

Socal > NE Oregon

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Posted: 11/23/19 01:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ajriding wrote:

Northern Lite, hands down.

So what if there is wood? Where is the water going to get past the fiberglass shell? Wood is great as long as you keep it dry.

Your only potential leaks are at the vents and windows really, and it is unlikely the water is able to run inside the fiberglass construction, it will have to leak into the camper which will be obvious.


and EVERY hole that's ever been put in it....lol. If you do proper maint, it isn't a problem, if you don't they will ALL leak and rot.


Chuck & Ruth with 4-legged Molly
1990 F350 S/C Lariat Dually (Red)
1990 S&S 11SC Cabover
2011 Ford Ranger
1987 HD FLHTP


ajriding

st clair

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Posted: 01/16/20 07:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mountainkowboy wrote:

ajriding wrote:


Your only potential leaks are at the vents and windows really, and it is unlikely the water is able to run inside the fiberglass construction, it will have to leak into the camper which will be obvious.


and EVERY hole that's ever been put in it....lol. If you do proper maint, it isn't a problem, if you don't they will ALL leak and rot.


Having owned both stick and fiberglass I can attest to the high quality of a fiberglass shell. No leaks!
Wood: leaks. Maintenance will prevent a lot of leaks on a stick camper, but some you will find after it leaks. Fiberglass just will not leak, and if it does the fiberglass and foam are waterproof and the foam fills in all the voids so there is nowhere for water to go anyway other than the floor or back outside. To the floor and you know pretty quick you have a leak, no rotten wood years later to testify to a leak like a stick camper.

Side note: don't put any more holes than necessary. The factory who built my fiberglass camper used a screw for every screw hole on the roof vent. There must be 32 screw holes so they used 32 screws. Only 6 or 8 were necessary. The Lap sealant will do wonders to aid the screws and hold it in place. Lap sealant alone will hold it but the screws make the frame lay flat to the roof.
When I changed vents I filled in many holes and used just a few screws 2nd time around.

jimh425

Western MT

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Posted: 01/16/20 08:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ajriding wrote:

Fiberglass just will not leak, and if it does the fiberglass and foam are waterproof and the foam fills in all the voids so there is nowhere for water to go anyway other than the floor or back outside.


Of course, this is not true. It’s easy to find examples of significant damage in fiberglass shell campers as well. You just have to do a search.

Besides, many “stick” campers includiing my Host has aluminum studs with walls filled with foam. Yes, they have their own set of problems. It’s a double slide with tremendous amount of room compared to a “fiberglas” shell TC.

Bottom line is nobody has built a perfect TC. There’s always going to be a tradeoff. Pick the tradeoffs you want to make, but all TC designs can leak. Maintenance is important for all types because they all have holes cut in the front/sides/back/top.


'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 Dbl Slide, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Air Bags, Hankook DH-01 225/19.5 Fs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.


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