Water heater question

[importman]

Hello again everyone, I have another question. My Montana has a Suburban water heater and I’m wanting to replace the anode rod with one that has a drain made on it. It’s cold here in the NC mountains so I have to winterize every time we come for a weekend and I’d like to speed up the process. My problem is that the rod that’s in it now is about 8 inches long and all I can find with a drain are about 4.5 inches long. Other than having to replace it more often is there any reason I couldn’t use one like that? They both have 3/4 pipe thread. Thanks in advance for your help.

[importman]

Thank you all for your advice. Not sure what I’m going to do yet but I appreciate your input.

[bucky]

My low point drain does the water heater also it you open the relief valve. Yours may as well.

[joelc]

Don't know they came with drains. But I would not go that way. Stay with the std. anode rod. 1. How could you inspect the rod if it is not removed. 2. To get complete water to drain the valve would have to be at the lowest point and residual would water would be in the tank. 3. You could not shine a light into the tank to inspect it and flush it out. 4. You would not get that famous shower you get when the rod is removed. 🙂

[Splashers3]

I flush my HW tank at the end of each season. This year, there was a high amount of calcium deposits in the tank bottom.....I spent a long time flushing a lot of it out. After seeing the previous poster's picture of the self draining anode, I can see it easily clogging - especially with all the particles I had this year. I'll pass.

[enblethen]

Here is one Anode with drain valve

[MFL]

Without seeing the short one with drain, I'd say if the drain hole is smaller, it will plug up, not drain well. Between outings, I often drain my Suburban WH just using the low point drain. It drains just as well as removing the plug, as I checked by removing plug afterward, and water was at bottom of plug hole, but none came out.

I would not use anything but the Suburban brand OEM plug, but that's just me.

Jerry

[Veebyes]

Never seen the short anode however a short one is better than none I guess. I give mine a good flushing once a year at the end of the season. Removing the anode to drain is faster & no big deal as long as you have the socket & short extension.

[All_I_could_aff]

But the valve will be likely good enough for a routine weekly drain, between uses, as long as it got the occasional full flush with the anode run out.

[bob213]

As the anode rod breaks down it drops a lot of particles in the bottom of your tank. I don't believe you will ever fully drain/flush your tank using the rod with the drain.

[wildtoad]

I think you’ll need a wrench that allows for the valve. I have looked at those anode rod/drain combos and have never found one for a Suburban. They have all said for Atwood. So be sure.

[Lwiddis]

I’ve found it takes forever to drain with those.

[All_I_could_aff]

I don’t think it will be any issue. I had never heard of that type of Anode rod, now I have to look it up

[enblethen]

I would stay with the standard anode. Buy the proper sized socket, extension and ratchet to make it very easy to remove and install.
The small drains can and will clogg up. You may think you drained the tank but guess what, you didn't!