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 > 5er hitch options RAM MegaCab w/6'4" bed - Solitude 310GK

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cummins2014

Utah

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Posted: 12/13/19 10:19am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Me Again wrote:

DesertDogs wrote:

End cap on the Solitude

Likely pin box that will be on the 2020

Does either the front cap or the pin box look likely to present a problem to either the rear window, or to the side rails of the truck in tight turns?


Couple things to remember:

One, the RAM short box is the shortest of the three.

Two, going forward is not a problem, as the truck will not turn tight enough for the trailer to contact the cab. It is backing up where the issue occurs. With a mega cab, the contact will be even farther away from the drivers seat and hard yet to monitor for contact issues.

In the fall of 2015 when we purchased our RAM, I knew I wanted the pucks and installed them myself, as the truck we purchased off the lot had everything else we wanted.

At the time there was not a slider, manual or auto that mounted via the pucks. There is now B&W Slider So I choose the Demco picture frame and the B&W manual slider. Because of the position of the B&W latch handle and the front bed box I had, I had to slide the hitch to uncouple. So I became SOP to slide the hitch back at check in and forward after straighten out of the street to exit a park or campground. So I never had an issue. With an auto slider I would have had a problem releasing the trailer as the handle would not clear the front box.

I used a HF hoist to lift the hitch and picture frame in and out of the truck as a single unit. I ran without the trail gate as I had a V-Box behind the hitch. I modified the front box twice. This box had been in my 1993 and 2001.5 RAMs. The first mod was step in the rear low side to clear the Demco picture frame and when we bought the Big Horn, I had to shorted the box from to back to clear the bigger pin box.

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When I went to the picture frame ,and used my existing 18K Reese slider I had the same set up you went too. My concern was when I slid back the slider the pin box would make contact with the tailgate. It cleared okay, and I believe my Reese slides back 10".

His only concern really has to be the configuration of the pin box, where it sits in relationship to his fifth wheel, some stick out further then others. It seemed the older fifth wheels the pin boxes were tucked in closer , not extended out like they are now. Here again I think the combination of the pin boxes sticking a bit further out ,and the rounder corners on the front caps are for the popular short bed trucks .

I too went with that HF hoist, works well, and I still use it with my Reese slider. But its still pretty nice to be able to just pull 4 pins, and lift that Andersen rail mount hitch off the frame adapter, or if at home lift both connected together out with the hoist.

When I bought the Reese frame adapter it was the only one available. Pullrite and Demco were later. I like the Demco for the fact it has four shorter locking handles . The Reese are longer, and pin together . I could not unhook the adapter ,and lift the slider hitch ,and adapter out at the same time connected together like you show in your pictures . The locking handles hit the hitch going one way ,or the side of the bed going the other. Hitch had to come out first ,then the adapter, kind of a hassle. I solved that, I cut down the handles so they would clear the hitch. Drilled new pin holes, and pinned them separately so I could lift hitch ,and adapter out at the same time . My point is that if the OP does go with an adapter the Reese is as good as the other two, but does have the longer handles. Knowing what I know now I would still go the Reese ,its the cheapest of the three, and by no means inferior, and those handles are easily changed.

cummins2014

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Posted: 12/13/19 10:35am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If I was buying that fifth wheel the OP is thinking about, I would negotiate getting the MorRyde pin box. Then go with the rail mount Andersen ,and frame adapter. He would be set.

I realize that there is concern with any configuration hitting the cab, but I can insure the OP with what I have , and the SAME truck, if he goes that Andersen with the adapter ,and that fifth has what I think it has ,he will have no issues. Yes you have to pay attention, and not go unconscious .

He could also go with the 2300 Superglide Auto slider ,and the adapter kit that fits directly to the puck system on his Ram truck. Nice setup. I am not a fan of auto sliders for a few reasons ,but many like them . Or a manual slider similar to Me Again.

cummins2014

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Posted: 12/13/19 11:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Durb wrote:

Don't pay extra for the RotoFlex pin box because you will have to lock out its function when using with an Andersen hitch. If you want the chucking control of that pin box, you will have to use it with a conventional hitch.

In my post regarding the broken rear window, the man's trailer was similar to yours in that the front cap tapered forward. His situation involved a tight backing scenario combined with a driveway. When the truck tires hit the driveway dip, the trailer leaned forward, busted the window, and dented the cab near the roof. Not a typical scenario, but many of us have backed tight on uneven terrain. I did witness the bites his pin box took out of the inside of his tailgate. His truck was a beautiful high end model (Platinum if I recall). He was not happy at all.

So, with the adapter in one position, his pin box was impacting his truck. Switch the adapter and out goes the window.



After reading your post again, I don't believe thats TRUE as far as not using that Rotoflex with the Andersen, unless there is some reason the adapter cannot fit on the pin box. Looking at it ,I can't see where thats an issue. The Andersen is not a gooseneck hitch . If I remember there was the same said about the MorRyde. IMO you are confusing what they say, not to use with a gooseneck hitch. The Andersen is no more a gooseneck then my Reese hitch. Connecting the Andersen with a ball to the adapter changes nothing as far how the MorRyde functions, which is fore ,and aft movement . Is that not the same function of the Rotoflex, and if not, it still would not make any difference. I can see a problem with the gooseneck arm trying to flex back, and forth being extend down to the bed.

Unless I am missing something , that Andersen does not change anything other instead of sliding into a conventional hitch ,and connected ,its connected with a ball. As said its NOT a gooseneck, there is a lot of difference.

Durb

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Posted: 12/13/19 08:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cummins2014 wrote:




After reading your post again, I don't believe thats TRUE as far as not using that Rotoflex with the Andersen, unless there is some reason the adapter cannot fit on the pin box. Looking at it ,I can't see where thats an issue. The Andersen is not a gooseneck hitch . If I remember there was the same said about the MorRyde. IMO you are confusing what they say, not to use with a gooseneck hitch. The Andersen is no more a gooseneck then my Reese hitch. Connecting the Andersen with a ball to the adapter changes nothing as far how the MorRyde functions, which is fore ,and aft movement . Is that not the same function of the Rotoflex, and if not, it still would not make any difference. I can see a problem with the gooseneck arm trying to flex back, and forth being extend down to the bed.

Unless I am missing something , that Andersen does not change anything other instead of sliding into a conventional hitch ,and connected ,its connected with a ball. As said its NOT a gooseneck, there is a lot of difference.


Check the Andersen website. A lockout kit is required when using an AUH with a RotoFlex pin box. The part number for the kit is 3247.

Andersen's own videos show the hitch being used with a MorRyde pin box.

* This post was edited 12/14/19 09:15am by an administrator/moderator *

cummins2014

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Posted: 12/13/19 08:54pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Durb wrote:



Check the Andersen website. A lockout kit is required when using an AUH with a RotoFlex pin box. The part number for the kit is 3247.

Andersen's own videos show the hitch being used with a MorRyde pin box.


Thanks, I stand corrected. I apologize

* This post was edited 12/14/19 09:12am by an administrator/moderator *

Durb

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Posted: 12/13/19 09:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cummins2014 wrote:



Thanks, I stand corrected. I apologize


No apology needed. I think we are all trying to give the OP good information.

* This post was edited 12/14/19 09:13am by an administrator/moderator *

DesertDogs

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Posted: 12/14/19 01:46am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Man... it does get a bit complex, doesn't it.

I am going to have to re-read much of this a few times to get my head wrapped around the possibilities.

I most certainly appreciate everyone's efforts to help me figure this all out!


Considering Solitude 310GK 5th wheel

alboy

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Posted: 12/14/19 08:31am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 15 ram dually with the Asin ,air ride,Anderson hitch flipped back,4000 pin on a 2014 Savannah.We carry 2 bikes upright in the bed with no turning issues.Run the rear tires at 55 psi loaded,35 empty,very nice ride and handling.

PeddlePaddle

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Posted: 12/17/19 02:16pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 6’4” box Ram 3500 SRW and didn’t want the worry about taking out the truck back window or the nose of the 5th wheel so went with the Pullrite. It works very slick and you can jackknife easily to get into those tight spots BUT when hooking up or unhooking you pretty much need to be in a straight line (truck and trailer) - the Pullrite manual says you have an allowance of 10 degrees which isn’t very much. I have on 2 occasions been just outside these limits and got stuck. That is could not unhook nor rehook. It took a lot of maneuvering to get unhooked at which point the trailer dropped. It would have crunched the box but luckily the kingpin landed on the frame of the hitch. The landing gear were not fully extended but were down. You also need to know that with the Pullrite you will need a capture plate to make the hitch slide properly. This is only an issue if someone else is going to move your trailer( i.e. service) and they don’t have a sliding hitch. Having said that, itis easy to remove and install.

Cummins12V98

on the road

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Posted: 12/17/19 03:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"Pullrite. It works very slick and you can jackknife easily to get into those tight spots BUT when hooking up or unhooking you pretty much need to be in a straight line (truck and trailer) - the Pullrite manual says you have an allowance of 10 degrees which isn’t very much. I have on 2 occasions been just outside these limits and got stuck. That is could not unhook nor rehook. It took a lot of maneuvering to get unhooked at which point the trailer dropped. It would have crunched the box but luckily the kingpin landed on the frame of the hitch."

PullRite make quality products, BUT the straight on thingy is a NO BUENO to me!!!

"IF" I had a SB I would be running the B&W manual hitch.


2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

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