Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Leaking Bathroom Sink
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Lwiddis

Near Annett’s Mono Village, Bridgeport, CA

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Posted: 12/18/19 01:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A scented candle, Gary? lol


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watts solar-parallel & MPPT, Trojan T-125s. TALL pole for flags. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, USF&WS, state & county camps. Bicyclist! 14 year Army vet - 11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560)


proaspen

Southern Pines, NC

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Posted: 12/19/19 02:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks to all for the responses. I have some silicone tub/tile caulk and will use that one. LOL on the candle comment! Thanks again! Great forum for advice. Have a Merry Christmas (or Happy Holidays, you choose) and a safe New Years. Off to Key West (flying) on Monday! Back on 3 Jan. Staying with son and family stationed (USAF) there for the next couple of years.

mobeewan

Hampton, Va

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Posted: 12/19/19 03:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

proaspen wrote:

Own a 2006 Fleetwood Bounder 35E Class A MH. Rear bathroom sink was not draining well. I took it completely apart and cleaned out the gunk in the drain tube and P-trap. I'm a little familiar with home sink repairs, so knew I would need plumber's putty. However, the "putty" that was there was very, very sticky. I had to use a solvent to get everything cleaned up. This had me worried. I pressed on with "regular" plumber's putty. After a few weeks of having a dry paper towel under the P-trap, I thought I was golden. Then a leak started. it is coming from where the drain and the sink connect. Took it apart and it looks like the plumber's putty was, I wouldn't say dissolving, but something like it. I cleaned everything up and prepared to redo the plumbers putty. Read the container. Says not to use on plastic components! Use Oatey Sillicone Sealant instead. Having an issue finding the recommended putty locally. Everything I'm working on is plastic!! Maybe that's why the previous stuff was very sticky. I don't know what that material is. Need your help identifying. Gonna use the normal stuff just so I can get the sink operational. Will have to redo once I get the "correct" stuff.


They probably used grey butyl tape. It is stickier than the putty tape which is more like clay. It appears to be what they used in my trailer bathroom.

They used it on the tub flange and in between the plastic sink and countertop. It works, it's water resistant and it's what they have on hand when they're building trailers. I used it when I took the tub drain out and resealed it. I also used it when I put a new Moen faucet in the bathroom. The tub drain was crooked because they did a bad job installing the drain piping under the tub. They used a long sweep tee with an inch stub of pipe connecting to the P-trap instead of a short sweep tee and correct length piece of pipe. The plumbing was actually pushing on the tub drain causing it to buckle the fiberglass tub floor around the drain. It hasn't leaked for several years. I check it from time to time and also have a piece of paper towel sitting under it.

Almot

out there

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Posted: 12/20/19 10:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Need to have a close look at mine, but I "think" there is no putty of any kind used on the P-trap and btw the P-trap and drain pipe that goes to gray tank. Only gaskets and permanently glued joints.
There is some goo btw the sink and the counter, and it looks like a silicone caulk from big box store. Probably several varieties would work as there is no permanent water pressure around the sink edge unless you are at the bottom of the sea [emoticon].

proaspen

Southern Pines, NC

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Posted: 12/21/19 11:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Almot: thanks for the response. Copy nothing on P-trap. The "goop" is only on the sink drain where it connects to the sink. Going to use either a silicone based caulk, or butyl rubber tape.

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