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 > Can I put a sprocket made for a keyed shaft on a D bore?

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Naio

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Posted: 12/20/19 09:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Naio,

Great sleuthing on finding a "spare". I'd certain buy while you still can.


I did buy a spare when I bought that one, but somehow it didn't make it into the van. I think I'll buy a third one.

But the one I'm saying is virtually irreplaceable, that's a different story. Getting a 3D image of it sounds like a good idea. Of course taking it off would be a giant pain. It's held on by a whole lot of bolts.


3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.


wnjj

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Posted: 12/20/19 10:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Naio wrote:

STBRetired wrote:

Make sure you use a long enough set screw that you don't have to worry about ripping out the last thread on the sprocket. Also verify that the keyway in the sprocket has been drilled all the way through so that the set screw does not damage the keyway.



I'm sorry, I don't really understand what you're saying. Especially the second part.


I found my sprocket: This is the one I currently have on the keyed shaft, and that I want to try to put on the D shaped shaft. I see this place is still selling them, so I can get another one.

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1958


For the first part, I think he’s concerned that if you wind a set screw that normally stops against a key but now has to reach the flat of the D, it may be too short to engage enough threads in the sprocket.

For the second part, if the set screw is tapered at all, the outermost edges of the threads in the sprocket as they head into the center bore may not be completely clear of metal. So if you now thread a longer set screw completely through the sprocket into the D area it could flare the key surface a bit.

Naio

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Posted: 12/20/19 10:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ohhh.... yes, now that I have found the picture of my sprocket, I remember from installing it that those set screws were tiny little nubbins. I don't have access to a hardware store here, so I guess I will see if I have a screw in my collection that fits, that is longer.

As for the second part, after reading your translation about nine times I finally understood, I think :-). The concern is about the body of the sprocket, above the keyway, where it is tapped for the set screw: the sideways pressure on a longer screw going into the flat part of the D could damage that end of that tapped section.

Yes I think that is definitely something that could happen. Not sure what I could do about it, other than get a spare sprocket.

What am I going to do if I don't have a longer screw? I can put the motor shaft in a vise and try to make a couple of dimples for the screws on the curved part of the shaft. But I imagine the shaft is made out of some super hard metal, and it's not like I have a drill press.

Naio

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Posted: 12/20/19 10:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I guess I could put the set screw at the edge of the flat part, and then it wouldn't have to be longer

Dusty R

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Posted: 12/21/19 07:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On your wiring and fuses.
Be sure that the wire and fuses are sized to your machine.
On the sprocket.
Check out Browning's pulleys/sprockets. They have a system that use a shaft squeezing system, It's hard to explain. Do a quick search, not hard to find.

Dusty

Naio

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Posted: 12/21/19 10:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Update:

I waited all day by the mailbox for the FedEx truck, got my motor, put it on in the dark. Without a load it was fine, but as soon as I put a small load on it, it had weak power and smoke started coming out. Not a good motor I guess.

Putting the sprocket on the D shaped shaft worked out fine, though!

It looks like I'll be taking the good motor apart tomorrow, to see if I can mess with it myself and not have to send it off to the guy. I don't want to be without any motor.

For those who are worried about my cabling, my cables did overheat when the motor overheated, and I want to replace them. My friend here where I'm staying gave me some. They are unmarked, but fatter than my slightly toasted 6-gauge.

I'm going to figure out how to post a picture of the cut end, though, because it is a silvery color. I'm wondering if they might be that copper coated aluminum stuff.

Naio

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Posted: 12/22/19 04:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi folks, I'm back again and sure would appreciate a little more advice.

Do you think this is CCA cable? Would it be a bad idea to use it for my power cables to my motor?

Thank you so much, all of you[emoticon]



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time2roll

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Posted: 12/22/19 04:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think you want #2 or better so it should be 1/4" or more in diameter.

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DrewE

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Posted: 12/22/19 08:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It does look to me like CCA, though it's not the easiest to tell from a picture. It generally is possible to figure out by weight as well; aluminum is considerably less dense than copper.





Naio

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Posted: 12/23/19 10:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you very much, time2roll and DrewE.

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