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 > Towing a 2640lb 16ft TT with a Ford Ranger 4.0L?

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rbpru

North Central Indiana

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Posted: 01/09/20 08:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is all in the math. The max cargo of your truck. The load you have with family, gear and TT tongue weight.

Numbers do not care about people's opinions.


Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.


2012Coleman

Florida

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Posted: 01/09/20 01:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My last TV was a 2003 Tundra Access cab. It had the small v8 - 4.3 or 4.6 - don't recall. I towed my previous Coleman TT which was north of 5K without a lot of trouble. It would be a good option for you if you can find one. I put it up for sale and was inundated with buyers. Very dependable, gas mileage while not towing was not bad. High mileage maintenance included having the timing chain changed.


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fintip

asheville

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Posted: 01/29/20 09:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just realized that there were 4 pages of responses, I'd only seen the first page before! Still new here.

Some good advice peppered in there. Was worth the read, thanks all.

I did more research, and just ended up posting a new thread (with more pictures as well).

The advice about making sure to consider mpg against maintenance costs is good advice, and why I've ended up leaning towards an f150 as my main option.

dodge guy

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Posted: 01/29/20 10:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I towed a 25ft Award TT with a 95 Explorer 4dr with the 4.0 (pushrod Motor) and 3.73 gears. It did fine in the Midwest. Never took it too any mountainous areas, but I would imagine it would’ve been slow. The trailer loaded for a trip was 5k lbs!

The Award is very aerodynamic so it towed easy. The trailer the OP has is a brick and would really make any older V-6 work.


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fintip

asheville

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Posted: 01/30/20 01:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It's not aerodynamic, but it is light. I plan to drive it slow to maximize mpg, I don't need to race anywhere.

I've wondered what I could do to improve aerodynamics on the trailer. Seems like just bolting a metal cone to the front of it would make a big difference. Do people do anything like that?

dodge guy

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Posted: 01/30/20 05:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a wing on my Excursion that helped push he air up and over the trailer. I gained .5mpg by using it. I went from 7 to 7.5 just using th wing with no other changes. With a pickup truck you would have to have a cap on the bed so the wing can be mounted as close as possible to the trailer. Other wise just on the roof of the cab is to dpfar away. I found my wing on CL and paid $75 for it. It paid for itself on our first long trip. It was also adjustable which helps for directing air.

Boomerweps

Hills of PA

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Posted: 01/31/20 09:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm surprised no one is selling the bulbous fiberglass noses they put on semi trailers. I've seen some on smaller cargo trailers but never investigated them. If my TT was a near true flat front, I'd search for one of those.


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BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Posted: 01/31/20 09:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fintip,
If you are going to travel or tow that RV any distance, you can forget about gas mileage. RV's and gas mileage are mutually exclusive! [emoticon] . The weight of the trailer does not matter much once it gets rolling so the design of the trailer determines how much wind resistance is present. Most RV's are about the same. It really doesn't matter too much what the shape of the front is, the gas milage will be about the same.

There has been some research that determines that the rear of the trailer is where most of the drag comes from and therefore the decreased gas mileage. There have been numerous postings on these forum regarding air wings, air tabs, rear wings, etc. but none to my knowledge has produced really noticeable, gas saving results. The best way to increase fuel mileage is to slow down. I never towed faster than 65 mph except for the occasional pass.

What is seems to come down to is that if you want to play, you got to pay! [emoticon] Although that is somewhat of a joke, it really is true. When I towed with a gas engined truck, I used to average around 10mpg which is about the norm. Some get better some get less but most average around 8-10 mpg with a gas vehicle. When I started towing the same trailer with a diesel my average went up to around 12 mpg and sometimes 14 mpg, but the price of fuel was normally considerably higher than the gas price so my cost per mile was about the same

If I were you, I would use the trailer and enjoy it but not worry about what kind of mileage you are going to get - you are towing a big box around. Just enjoy the lifestyle and have fun! [emoticon]
Barney

* This post was edited 01/31/20 12:39pm by BarneyS *


2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD


colliehauler

Mc Pherson KS USA

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Posted: 01/31/20 09:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A small Airstream, Scamp, Castia or small fiberglass trailer will be more aerodynamic with rounded front and rear roof.

ajriding

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Posted: 01/31/20 10:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you are living in it then I suggest a crew cab, not a king cab, you will be glad for the extra storage room.
Have you looked at the Nissan Frontier? Similar truck, more reliable. MPG will be bad when towing, 10-12mpg I bet.
What is your budget?
Consider a full size truck like F150 with a 3.7 motor, 2011 or newer if budget allows. More power, more torque and mpg will not suffer as much as with the little truck with old technology engine.
That F150 will get 23mpg hwy, and towing it will do better than the mid-sized trucks.
If you are mostly towing then the bigger truck will give you better mpg as the motor will work less, even if you have to look at older trucks in v8 configuration that are not great mpg, but when towing things look a lot different for mpg numbers.
Research this on the truck forums for more info rather than a trailer forum.
If you drive a lot then a diesel might, might be worth it. mpg will stay high, but fuel cost are also high and oil changes cost more since you use gallons not quarts. Unless you find a small diesel like in a Sprinter (which Im sure is out of the budget), those will not be locomotives like the 3/4 ton truck diesels.

For aerodynamics, bolt that cone to the rear, this is where the drag is, as stated, not the front. All the old 1950's trailers were aero and sloped/shaped at the rear, not the front. A slanted front does nothing.
On one of mine I mounted the solar panel to hang off the rear to mimmic the big rig trailers with their wing things over-hang cavity shape. This helped the air flow a little smoother. The big rigs would not bother if it did not work. You can bolt on something that will look trashy, but solar panels will not look like a garage-fix home-engineer hack. Solar panels have a purpose and where you attach them is OK, IMO.

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