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salem

Central Valley, Ca

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Posted: 01/09/20 11:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have an Atwood 6 ga. water heater. It uses a plastic plug as opposed to the Suburban heaters that use an anode rod. Talking among campers this morning one guy said he uses an anode rod in his Atwood tank, "Just to be safe." I'm certainly no expert, but I've never read on these forums that this is a good idea. Do any of you do this?

SoundGuy

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Posted: 01/09/20 12:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

salem wrote:

Talking among campers this morning one guy said he uses an anode rod in his Atwood tank, "Just to be safe."


Waste of time and $$. An Atwood water heater tank is aluminum and acts as it's own anode. Atwood doesn't recommend the use of an anode rod so why would you? [emoticon]


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BFL13

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Posted: 01/09/20 12:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No. Lots on that here:

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30019014.cfm


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salem

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Posted: 01/09/20 12:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That what I was thinking, Sound Guy, thanks. So, what are the Suburbans made of. Metal?

MFL

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Posted: 01/09/20 12:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Suburban...steel tank, uses steel plug/anode. You don't want to put a steel plug anode in an aluminum tank, reason why Atwood uses a plastic plug.

Jerry

* This post was edited 01/10/20 06:06am by MFL *





salem

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Posted: 01/09/20 12:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13: Good reading, thanks.

Old-Biscuit

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Posted: 01/09/20 12:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tell your firend he is NOT being safe using an anode rod in his Atwood Aluminum Tank----which consists of a 15% thickness of type 7072 aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the rolling process.
THe ZINC Cladding provides the needed protection


Just because a product is SOLD via Aftermarket does NOT mean it is worthwhile, an improvement or necessary.

Atwood does NOT even have OEM ande rods..........that tells you NO!


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Lwiddis

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Posted: 01/09/20 01:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

And the plastic plug works fine. I carry an extra so I'll never lose the original. It is small and light unlike the extra kitchen sink.


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cavie

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Posted: 01/09/20 03:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The plug is not plastic. It is nylon. Why do people constantly try to reinvent the wheel?


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wa8yxm

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Posted: 01/09/20 04:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

salem wrote:

I have an Atwood 6 ga. water heater. It uses a plastic plug as opposed to the Suburban heaters that use an anode rod. Talking among campers this morning one guy said he uses an anode rod in his Atwood tank, "Just to be safe." I'm certainly no expert, but I've never read on these forums that this is a good idea. Do any of you do this?


Not sure if this is high school chemistry or physics but it is HS science so we should all know it,, no need for a college degree (but I got one of those too)

Every element and every metal and alloy has a "Valiance" number.. Now It has been a long time since I took the class so I'd need to research it a bit to be detailed enough but I recall what they mean

Different metals react differently.. The metal used by Suburban in their tanks is fairly reactive with most water so they use a SACRIFICIAL anode to protect it .. The metal used by Atwood is far less reactive. and thus the anode is not only not needed.... it voids the warranty.

NOTE brass will react with the metal of the Atwood tank so brass plugs ALSO void the warranty.. This is why they use Nylon.

Will a Sacrificial anode bother the Atwood.. not sure (do not think so) but it voids so don't do it.


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