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Yellowstone - west or northwest enterance?

dryfly
Explorer
Explorer
I will be traveling west on I90 and looking for the least difficult route to enter the park. Would like to avoid steep grades.

Two choices: Hwy 89 to Gardiner would be the closest for me. Second would be to come down Hwy 191 and come through the west entrance. I will be staying in Madison CG.

Suggestions appreciated.
14 REPLIES 14

paulj
Explorer II
Explorer II
On Google Maps, terrain mode, I see that Livingston is about 4500 ft. Gardner 5400, Mammoth Hot Springs 6400 (and climbing). The road south climbs to 7400 and stays around that. Madison CG is 7000.

West Yellowstone 6800. 191 starts around 4800, and climbs to a high point of 7200 (a broad pass). Bozeman Pass between Livingston and Bozeman is about 5800.

US287 is an alternative route from I90 to W Yellowstone. It runs in a broader valley than 191. Major stretches of 191 run along a mountain river, so are curvier.

Crowe
Explorer
Explorer
I'm sure there are those that seek steep grades just for the fun of it, however, I'm not one of them. As per my OP I'm just looking for a choice between the two entrances I mentioned.

My truck, pulling my fifth wheel, generates a lot of heat in the transmission on extended uphill grades. Also, I do not have an exhaust break so coming down a steep grade can be a challenge.


That info should help others guide you. As I mentioned, I've gone in both ways (in a car) but I've never been driving so I haven't paid much attention. If I was the driver I'd be looking for the flattest route as well. I don't do well with heights and if I get the sudden sensation of height I have a tendency to pass out. Not good when you are behind the wheel! In any event no matter what route you take enjoy the park.

I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be

Douglas Adams

[purple]RV-less for now but our spirits are still on the open road. [/purple]

richardcoxid
Explorer
Explorer
From Livingston, MT to Gardner o’all is a slight down grade. Then a slight up grade from Gardner to Mammoth with about a mile long steep grade just before Mammoth, it is only 3-4 miles total. Then from Mammoth there a a steep grade prolly about 2-3 miles long up to the top. From there to Norris to Madison a piece of cake!

X2 on you entering from West Yellowstone, MT.

Remember out West if it doesn’t have a runway truck ramp it isn’ a grade! (LOL)
2017 GMC Denali 3500 4x4 Duramax
2019 Outdoor RV (ORV) Timber Ridge 24RKS

richardcoxid
Explorer
Explorer
From Livingston, MT to Gardner o’all is a slight down grade. Then a slight up grade from Gardner to Mammoth with about a mile long steep grade just before Mammoth, it is only 3-4 miles total. Then from Mammoth there a a steep grade prolly about 2-3 miles long up to the top. From there to Norris to Madison a piece of cake!

X2 on you entering from West Yellowstone, MT.

Remember out West if it doesn’t have a runway truck ramp it isn’ a grade! (LOL)
2017 GMC Denali 3500 4x4 Duramax
2019 Outdoor RV (ORV) Timber Ridge 24RKS

dryfly
Explorer
Explorer
Crowe wrote:
Would like to avoid steep grades.

Any particular reason why? That might help get some more relevant answers.

I’d enter, or leave, the park from a direction you haven’t taken previously. I don’t seek the easy way but rather the interesting way.

That would be us, too, unless there's a concrete reason why you can't. I've entered twice from the west and once from the east. It's a different experience each way and each time.



I'm sure there are those that seek steep grades just for the fun of it, however, I'm not one of them. As per my OP I'm just looking for a choice between the two entrances I mentioned.

My truck, pulling my fifth wheel, generates a lot of heat in the transmission on extended uphill grades. Also, I do not have an exhaust break so coming down a steep grade can be a challenge.

I've never been to Yellowstone before so any entrance will be a nice experience, but I prefer to take as gentle approach as possible.

My hope was that Hwy 89 through Gardiner would work as that would be closer in distance for me. Without knowing the road it's a difficult decision. Based on the above responses it looks like Hwy 191, although be a little longer distance may be my best route. Thanks for the input.

richardcoxid
Explorer
Explorer
Some helpful information about YSNP (some general items apply to GTNP also)

YNP is BIG!, about 45 miles E/W and about 65 miles N/S (2.2 mil. Acres total). The “figure 8 grand loop” road inside the park is about 140 miles around. The lower loop is 96 miles and the upper loop is 70 miles around and yes, it is bigger than the states of Rhode Island and Delaware combined.

Whatever time that you think you will need to see YNP you better double it, or to say it another way is that you will see one half as much as you planned on in the allotted time. The Bison think that they own the road (they do!) and will slow down the traffic to walking speed or stop all traffic for 1/4 mile or more blocking both directions of travel, the thermal attractions also tie up traffic and with a 5 month long summer tourist season that coincides with a 5 month long road construction season and a 45 MPH radar controlled speed limit it will take about a full day to see each loop and then you will only see the main attractions. In addition to the occasional construction delays they will also sometimes close whole sections of road (for uninterrupted night construction) between 10 PM and 8 AM in the morning, if you are running late and get caught at night in the wrong area it CAN be a LONG way around to your CG! (The entrance stations will have current construction information or go on line to check it out)

Then there is the elevation- YNP ranges from a low at Mammoth- 6239 ft to 7784 ft at Fishing Bridge or higher if you go hiking and there are passes on the grand loop road that are close to 8000 ft or so! Drink plenty of liquids and pace yourself when walking.

I recommend that you get up EARLY, leave the CG and be back by 4 or 6 PM have dinner and be sitting in your recliner drinking a cool one when your neighbor drags himself back to the CG at 8-10 PM. Remember that from mid May to mid July in YNP the sun doesn't set until about 9:00- 9:15 PM then there is a long and bright twilight.

Cell Phone Service- Only at the major visitor centers, otherwise non-existent!

Clothing- Especially in the early or late season it is not unusual to have a 30 or even the occasional 40 degree temperature change throughout the day. Dress with easily shed layers of clothing. Also dress in bright easily seen clothing. I am sure that we all have been to a sporting event, parade or Disney World etc. and we blink our eyes and our partner/child has disappeared. My DIL was born and raised in HI, you guessed it, every Xmas, b-day or Father's Day I receive a Hawaiian shirt. One of them is shiny black with 4-5 inch dia. bright flowers. Not many of them in Wyoming and in YSNP, that is what I wear. If your partner has on a Violet blouse and a Orange scarf with a Pink hat I guarantee that she will be the only one within the boundaries of either NP. It can save you a few anxious moments.

Water- Now I will have to contradict myself, at the altitude of YNP yes, drink lots of water! HOWEVER, be aware that the flush toilet restrooms are in the major tourist areas- Mammoth, Canyon, Fishing Bridge, Lake Hotel, Bridge Bay, Grant Village, Old Faithful, Madison Junction etc. The geyser basins and other thermal attractions areas only have pit toilets. I have seen the pit toilet line at the lower Geyser Basin (2 R/Rs) 25 or more feet long (bless the tour buses) So be smart about drinking your water and use the major tourist area R/Rs before leaving the area! I.e. “Never pass up a flush toilet!”

Sun- At YSNP altitude the Sun is intense (uv) have and apply sunscreen, wear that old floppy wide brim sun hat, wear Sunglasses!

If your luck is like mine Old Faithful will have just erupted when you get there and you will have up to a hour and 10 to 15 minutes wait for the next one. Tour the O/F Geyser basin while waiting. O/F INN is a must see, reportedly the largest LOG building in the U.S. (Meals in the O/F Inn dinning room are “A OK” also.

We have lived about 110 miles from West Yellowstone, MT since 1964, go to YSNP 3-4 times a summer (normally before Memorial Day and after Labor Day) and haven't seen it all yet! So don’t be discouraged that you didn’t have the time to see all of it. Just plan on coming back another time!

I honestly don’t mean to scare or discourage you but to give you a heads up as to what to expect! After all there was 4.1 million visitors in 2015! As far as I know we didn’t lose one of them. Except those who by their own stupidity step off the board walks into BOILING HOT water and ignoring the warnings about the WILD ANIMALS! That is called purifying the gene pool!

Now, for the early spring/late fall visitors, YSNP is closed to ALL wheeled traffic from mid November to mid March (Snow Machines, Snow Coach’s, Snowshoes, X-country Skiing etc only as of mid Dec to mid March) the first road to be plowed open in mid April is from West Y’stone, MT to Old Faithful. The last roads to be plowed is Norris to Canyon to Fishing Bridge, West Thumb south to GTNP. Other tourist venues are open AS the shelves are stocked, beds are made, winter debris cleaned up etc. All tourist venues are open by Memorial Day weekend the official opening.

Note I have seen on this blog and others about folks “day tripping” from YSNP to GTNP, it is done all the time (myself included) however remember this is BIG country and with the speed limits, animals and thermal attractions you will be doing a LOT of slow driving. From Grant Village Visitor Center (extreme S/E corner of the lower loop road) to Jackson, WY is about 80 miles with Coulter Bay being about 1/2 way, then from Grant Village you have to add the distance to your CG it will be a Long days trip!

A point of Coulter Bay (GTNP) clarification- there are two (2) CG’s at Coulter Bay, One the “Coulter Bay RV Park” a full service “RV Park” with FHU’S that takes reservations. The other is the “Coulter Bay Campground “ (FS CG) has no hookups and doesn’t take reservations. Both have about 300 sites and are basically across the road from each other.

The Gros Ventre FS CG in GTNP (about 5 miles north of Jackson and about 4 miles n/e toward the town of Kelly, on the right side of the road) is about 300 sites (including about 30 sites that are electric only) has no hookups and doesn’t take reservations.

When in the Jackson area I highly recommend seeing the Bar J Chuckwagon dinner show! If you go, MAKE RESERVATIONS and BE THERE EARLY TO PICK UP YOUR MEAL TICKETS/ TABLE SEATING ASSIGNMENTS! They seat you by when you show up to get your tickets NOT by your reservation number. Tim, their fiddle player has won the "Idaho state old time fiddle contest 9 times and the US open fiddle championship twice". If you decide to go you will sit at picnic type of bench seats/table, they get pretty hard, I recommend that you take along a blanket/pads to sit on. We day trip it there 2-4 times every summer just to see them! Disclaimer- We have no financial or other interest in the Bar J only that it will be the best $$ value for your money on your trip! Check out their website.

http://www.barjchuckwagon.com

Also in Jackson check out the “COWBOY” bar, the bar stools are saddles and the # of Silver Dollars imbedded in the bar. The Wort Hotel Bar (just around the corner from the Cowboy Bar) also has Silver Dollars imbedded in the Bar.
2017 GMC Denali 3500 4x4 Duramax
2019 Outdoor RV (ORV) Timber Ridge 24RKS

TexasShadow
Explorer
Explorer
191 down to West Yellowstone then into the Park from there. About 14 miles to Madison Campground in the Park.
TexasShadow
Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE/ 3126B Cat
Sometimes BMW K75 on Rear Carrier
Jeep Grand Cherokee or 2016 Ford XLT 4x4 super cab with 8 ft bed
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Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.

Crowe
Explorer
Explorer
Would like to avoid steep grades.

Any particular reason why? That might help get some more relevant answers.

I’d enter, or leave, the park from a direction you haven’t taken previously. I don’t seek the easy way but rather the interesting way.

That would be us, too, unless there's a concrete reason why you can't. I've entered twice from the west and once from the east. It's a different experience each way and each time.

I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be

Douglas Adams

[purple]RV-less for now but our spirits are still on the open road. [/purple]

Elk_traveler
Explorer
Explorer
Hwy 191 into
west Yellowstone basically no real grades just a nice pleasant ride.
from west yellow to madison is also relatively short with no issues except an ocassional Bison maybe in the road. Very easy drive.

Yosemite_Sam1
Explorer
Explorer
Lwiddis wrote:
I’d enter, or leave, the park from a direction you haven’t taken previously. I don’t seek the easy way but rather the interesting way.


Ditto, sights are spectacular and you might as well take full advantage of both.

Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
I’d enter, or leave, the park from a direction you haven’t taken previously. I don’t seek the easy way but rather the interesting way.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

Islandman
Explorer
Explorer
As the above respondents have indicated, you're best going to the west entrance and will avoid the grade going south into the park from the Gardiner entrance. And as they indicated, the Madison CG is real close to the West Yellowstone entrance, so you'll be able to set up camp quickly after entering the park.

Ed_C
Explorer
Explorer
Going to Madison, I think the west entrance would be easier. The climb out of Mammoth is pretty steep, but not a real challenge.
Ed/Jeanie & Slade the GSD
2017 Entegra Aspire 42 RBQ/ Sierra Crew

paulj
Explorer II
Explorer II
I think the main grade of 89 occurs inside the park, past Mammoth Hot Springs.

Grades to West Yellowstone, and from there to Madison are gentle.