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 > Need help replacing charging circuit solenoid.

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MrWizard

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Posted: 01/17/20 08:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Blf
Where is the charge solenoid
You don't need long jumper cables
You just need to jump the heavy terminals together on the solenoid
To connect the two systems

I have done it numerous times on other RVs
For people that didn't know


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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/17/20 09:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MrWizard wrote:

Blf
Where is the charge solenoid
You don't need long jumper cables
You just need to jump the heavy terminals together on the solenoid
To connect the two systems

I have done it numerous times on other RVs
For people that didn't know


You are right. I'll see if that works. It is a long run of #10 from the solenoid/starter to the house though. Solenoid is up front with the engine battery.


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maillemaker

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Posted: 01/18/20 08:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

How much time between starting the rig and the voltage going up?
It could be the chassis battery had to come up a little before circuit board allowed relay to energize.
Try to locate the battery control circuit board and post number.
You may be OK!


I replaced the alternator, and then started the engine. Volts showed about 11.6V as I recall on my cigarette-lighter voltmeter.

I got out of the cab, whacked the solenoid, and came back, and it was showing 14V.


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maillemaker

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Posted: 01/18/20 08:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

So with no house charging from alternator, the engine battery showed low voltage as though no alternator, but new alternator same thing. You might have had a big house draw that should have been taken by the house batts that was taken by the engine batt, lowering the voltage.


It's possible, but the only things running in the back should have been the refrigerator, water pump in standby, TV in standby, and the Propane/CO detector.

And I'm not even sure I had the batteries ganged at that point anyway.

Steve

MrWizard

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Posted: 01/18/20 08:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

MrWizard wrote:

Blf
Where is the charge solenoid
You don't need long jumper cables
You just need to jump the heavy terminals together on the solenoid
To connect the two systems

I have done it numerous times on other RVs
For people that didn't know


You are right. I'll see if that works. It is a long run of #10 from the solenoid/starter to the house though. Solenoid is up front with the engine battery.


With #10 wire i would connect the terminals and wait a few minutes before hitting the start switch
Let it transfer a few amps forward to the weak chassis battery and mitigate the surge and the voltage drop from the house battery

BFL13

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Posted: 01/18/20 10:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

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* This post was edited 01/20/20 03:01pm by BFL13 *

BFL13

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Posted: 01/20/20 03:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mystery remains why the voltage fell off while driving and it wasn't the alternator. Whacking the charging solenoid seemed to make the voltage jump back to 14v, and all was good for the six hour drive home. But whacking that should not have made any difference.

More like you drove through a big puddle and the belt was slipping? Then it dried for the rest of the trip after you stopped?

What is the situation now? If not driven since, you could do some tests of the engine charging system.
a. disconnect the house side wire from the solenoid so there can be no confusion
b. start and run the engine.
c. observe voltage at the battery too, not just at the dash in case they are different (dropping at the dash but ok at the battery eg)

Is there something between the alternator output and the engine battery in the charging circuit that could have been going wrong but the alternator was ok?
Did whacking the solenoid fix that by vibration never mind what it did in the solenoid?

After whacking the solenoid, you now maybe got house voltage to the dash, but the engine batt still low. (they should have been ganged with voltage somewhere between the two voltages) Did it stay at 14 all the way as though house batts being charged at 14? Solar?
Or was that 14 from alternator ok to both sides?

If all seems well reconnect the house side of the solenoid but disconnect the little ignition wire so the solenoid is open (as it might have been in pre-whack stage for some mystery reason). Does engine voltage fall off like it did? If so, does reconnecting the ignition wire close the solenoid (without having to whack it) and does that make the voltage come back up? All to see if what happened before is repeatable.

enblethen

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Posted: 01/20/20 03:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am saying whacking the relay (solenoid) made the connections inside work.
It maybe wise to replace it! I don't like to throw parts at a problem, but in this case it could be worth it.


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BFL13

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Posted: 01/20/20 03:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the solenoid is stuck open but with voltage on the "ignition wire" (what is it called on this solenoid?) would that cause the dash mounted voltmeter to show a falling voltage? Does resistance build up somehow?

enblethen

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Posted: 01/20/20 04:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No, the coil will draw very low amperage, maybe 1 amp.

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