Would I ever be happy towing with a half ton truck

[Gald65]

Back story-impulsively purchased a 2006 keystone 26tbl. Loaded weight about 7700 lbs. At that time towing with a 08 Sierra cc. Obviously not enough truck. Purchased a 11 Sierra Denali cc with the 6.2. It definitely does much better. It has plenty of motor but the handling leaves a little bit to be desired.
The question- eventually I plan on upgrading my trailer to something that has a loaded weight of around 8500 lbs. I know that I won’t be happy with the Denali. Is anyone out there towing that type of weight with one of the newer F150’s with the 13000lb configuration? Are you happy with the handling? Should I stop being a tight a$$ and get a 3/4 ton truck?
TIA

[Grit_dog]

ppine wrote:
Would like to hunt deer with a .22?

I've shot a couple with a .22, but apples to oranges here.
Just because you believe anything that doesn't have 8 lugs and a diesel is a car, doesn't mean 1/2 tons aren't good for towing.

[ppine]

There is no doubt that 1/2 ton trucks continue to get stronger and more capable. You can use one to tow 8,000 pounds or more, but why would you ?

They do not cost much less than a full sized truck. They have less room. I like a one ton with an 8 foot bed. Many half tons have a 5 1/2 foot bed, not even long enough to sleep in.

[Grit_dog]

poppa wrote:

Groover wrote:
The problem with the question is that trucks are evolving and every category is getting more capable. My 2016 F150 tows better than my 1991 F250 or my 2003 E350. And the new F150s tow better than my 2016 model. Asking whether you could ever be happy with one depends a lot on the year model and how it is equipped.

why should the government protect you? are you?

?? Wut?

[poppa]

Groover wrote:
The problem with the question is that trucks are evolving and every category is getting more capable. My 2016 F150 tows better than my 1991 F250 or my 2003 E350. And the new F150s tow better than my 2016 model. Asking whether you could ever be happy with one depends a lot on the year model and how it is equipped.

why should the government protect you? are you?

[ppine]

Would like to hunt deer with a .22?

[Grit_dog]

troubledwaters wrote:
The trouble with that is, the more truck / cushion they have, the safer they feel, the faster they go down the road. A 3/4 ton diesel hauling a 8,000 lb RV at 80 mph in the hammer lane ain't any safer then the guy with the (properly equipped) F150 hauling the same RV at 65 mph in the right lane. I see it all the time.

This is a very true statement.
Knowing that most people, it seems, don't have an indepth working knowledge of vehicles or towing (at least the ones asking questions like "Will I ever be happy towing with a half ton?")
The sense of "security" of a bigger truck can be a good or a bad thing, depending on how brave the driver is.
But as you said, you can tow safely with either type of rig.
Bigger = better? Typically yes, but that should not be translated to Smaller = bad in all cases.

[Grit_dog]

hvac wrote:
I just watched a guy pull out of here with a massive 4 slide trailer. Longer than mine anyways. 1500 ram limited. I doubt he has 1100 lbs payload. Goodyear wrangler passenger tires. Its was way overloaded.

Some real steep hills here and around desert city, winds are calm though today.

I waved a good bye. Hope it goes ok for him. Something tells me it will be a challenging ride at some point.

Or he will bee just fine. Probably doesn't realize he's broken like 4 of the RVNET 10 Commandments!

[hvac]

I just watched a guy pull out of here with a massive 4 slide trailer. Longer than mine anyways. 1500 ram limited. I doubt he has 1100 lbs payload. Goodyear wrangler passenger tires. Its was way overloaded.

Some real steep hills here and around desert city, winds are calm though today.

I waved a good bye. Hope it goes ok for him. Something tells me it will be a challenging ride at some point.

[blt2ski]

hvac

you are correct, the rating is a durability rating. Hence, GCWR, the W should be warranty not weight rating!

For everyone's perusal the page to how the J2807 tow ratings are done, what is the minimum to meet the spec. For full size trucks, it is 80 sq ft of frontal area. The spec does not give a reduction is lbs or equal, for those toting the larger 5w's that are in the 100-120 sq ft relm. Nor is there a reduction for when you have wider tires, traction vs hwy ribs, taller tires etc than tested.
I can rattle off a number of past ratings that were reduced due to stock taller tires, mid 90s Ford did have a poster out for reductions over 80 and 100 sq ft. over 100 was a reduction in half of the max rating at the time. 10K down to 5K lbs. Over 120 sq ft was not recommended towing by your F series truck.
GM 454SS, max tow 6000 lbs, despite the 4.10 gears, 4l80E trans, it was a sport truck, rwd, short WB box truck!
My wifes model 2001 MB ML320, ALL of these were rated to 5000 lbs max tow rating in owners manual. With a caveat, if you want BEST performance, do not buy the 200/200 hp torque 320 like we have, get the 400/400+ turbo M55 V8! ALL will safely pull a 5000 lbs trailer, assuming setup correctly! That is the best tow rating I have seen frankly!
No reduction if you want to go up a steeper grade than speced. NO REDUCTIONS for a lot of things that might include how you tow! or what you tow.
As Ive said many times. I do not tow just an RV trailer. equipment trailers, single axel box trailers. Granted ALL ball or pintle hitched, some of you also add in a gooseneck or 5w style, along with ball mount trailers. SO yes, the ratings are a basic hopefully everyone will be ok, warranty is not over exposed to the manufacture etc.

Marty

[hvac]

Maybe, the real tow rating is just a capability thing that's created by mfg for just durability but not for reality.

My point is this is an rv forum. My 8klb load is totally different than 8klb of rocks, or a mini cat loader on a flat bed. We tow a huge wind load, it is not a factor in current ratings. My coach is just under 34 ft long. Its a square box with a rounded off nose. Its comparing apples and oranges. Stiff cross winds are a factor for all of us. Now add in western region canyons, passes and its a different world.

Maybe a fudge factor of 30% or so should be deducted for rv applications. I know frontal is a factor, but why not side load as well? This is again why weight of the tv must be a contributing factor in stability and ease of towing.

[blt2ski]

Lantley wrote:

GDS-3950BH wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

A few local boat Ramps are that steep.

I gotta know where these are....

Maybe we can all get together and watch people back their TTs into the lake...
This sounds like fun... I will bring a 100 QT cooler of beer to share with my RV net friends.:B

This is a street where I grew up, it's a 28% grade. A 4WD truck can get hung up if you stop when its just wet if you have the wrong skins.

The big thing was, and probably still is, to run up it when it had about 6" of snow on it. You needed to have a manly set of em as the running start required was brutal when you hit the bottom of the slope. I made it once with an International Scout. I made it halfway once in a 68 Bronco, the sideways slide back down was interesting.

Are you suggesting trucks should be rated based on this criteria?

YES!!!!!

If not, you think you can go anywhere, you can't, blow up trannies every 30k as I have with one truck. You may find roads this steep for shirt trecks anywhere! Be it a forest service road, local city road, construction site. If one is buying a truck, not all of us use it for OTR work.
Look at how MDT/HDT trucks are speced. Local delivery, min pulling grade is 25%,ma x us over 100% 45 degrees depending on what it is. Can hold 58min on level, to excellent is 55 on a 3%freewsy grade.
OTR freeway speeds are upped to 60, gradability is lowered to 15 minimum. Excellent 28%,
How do you use your truck and where? I'm personally more local driving, with excursions on freeway. So yes, being able to pull this grade in RWD with a RWD or a 4x in RWD is very important to me! A big motor is not as needed, as lower gears in rear pumpkin, and LOW gears in trans are important. Then make it with a DOD or OD so one can go 60+ when and if needed.
Hopefully my thumb typing has words correct, blinken auto correct on phone is reasonably correct in what and why I like to spec my trucks as I do.
Msrty

[Lantley]

ronharmless wrote:
So in reading all this, this is the conclusion I arrived at. The more money you throw at it, the better it'll tow. So the real question is, how much skin you willing to put in the "game"? Answer that first and the RV Nettters here can fix you up.
Seems you can go anywhere from a 1/2 ton to a class 8, how much money you willing to put in.

That's the misconception. It's not about money.
The price difference between a heavily equipped 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton isn't that much.
You can essentially get both for the same cost.
The question is more about priorities.
Do you want a truck that will always provide a stable towing platform in all conditions or do you want a softer ride, daily driver that will fit in the garage?
As this is a towing forum, I'm trying to optimize my towing experience, by having a stout truck that can deliver a relaxing tow experience in all conditions

[hvac]

Another huge factor is where you tow. I found the ED overall was much more comfortable east of the Rockies. It still was a bit stressful in severe cross winds but the long grades, severe winds and consistent mountainous or high altitude will test the abilities of a TV. I also think weight of the TV is a huge factor in stability when confronting these conditions. Our CTD is almost 8klb. Stiffer suspension and that weight just commands greater control.

[troubledwaters]

The trouble with that is, the more truck / cushion they have, the safer they feel, the faster they go down the road. A 3/4 ton diesel hauling a 8,000 lb RV at 80 mph in the hammer lane ain't any safer then the guy with the (properly equipped) F150 hauling the same RV at 65 mph in the right lane. I see it all the time.