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 > problem with electric water heater-Fixed but new problem

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mobeewan

Hampton, Va

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Posted: 02/17/20 06:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fj12ryder wrote:

mobeewan wrote:

bob213 wrote:

Element is easy to replace just make sure you buy the wrench to take it off.($5 or$6).

Watch this:
element


The video was good at showing the basics, but he didn't use any Teflon tape when installing the new element or reinstalling the anode plug. Nor did he clean the tank threads to remove the remnants of Teflon tape.

After he reconnected the leads for the heating element he should have refilled the water heater and turned on the element to test it and make sure it was going to heat and the element threads were not going to leak.

You never know for sure if the element threads or the anode plug threads are going to leak until the tank and the water are heated up. He put the cover back on the element access so he would never know it was leaking unless he found the floor was getting wet under the water heater.

After the element is successfully tested and there is no leakage then he should have continued to reinstall the element cover and the gas burner tube.

I'll give the video a B minus.
Thread sealant isn't necessary on the threads for the heating element, since they don't do any sealing. The rubber gasket is what seals the heating element, the threads are regular SAE, not NPT.

A little sealant on the anode rod can't hurt though.


I did not realize that there was an o-ring seal on the heating element. However, it still needs to be hot water pressure checked for leakage before the cover is put back on and everything else is reconnected.

fj12ryder

Platte City, MO

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Posted: 02/17/20 08:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Absolutely. Checking for leaks is always a good idea before buttoning everything back up.


Howard and Peggy

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rbp111

Citrus Heights, CA

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Posted: 02/18/20 07:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bob, yes I pressed the reset button. Many times. I did a check of everything probably six times. It failed me in just 5 years.
I still am confused if the problem is the heating element or the thermostat.
I still have the appointment. If I don't figure it out, than I will take it in.

fj12ryder

Platte City, MO

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Posted: 02/18/20 10:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, the easiest and cheapest option is to change the heating element and see if that fixes the issue. You're looking at about $12 for that. Or you could check the resistance of the heating element, and see how that compares to a normal element. I've read that it should be around 16 ohms.

I don't know how much the thermostat is, but if the element is good, that would indicate it is the thermostat.

bob213

Fresno, CA

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Posted: 02/18/20 10:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rbp111 wrote:

Bob, yes I pressed the reset button. Many times. I did a check of everything probably six times. It failed me in just 5 years.
I still am confused if the problem is the heating element or the thermostat.
I still have the appointment. If I don't figure it out, than I will take it in.


Both are quick fixes. The t-stat is simple and quick. I would try to avoid a trip to the dealer as they could tie you up for a month.

#232306 is for electric side
t-stat

My t-stat looked good(had not burned thru) but I replaced it anyway. That fixed my problem.


You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality – Ayn Rand


rbp111

Citrus Heights, CA

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Posted: 02/18/20 02:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I presume that the element is part # 520900.

fj12ryder

Platte City, MO

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Posted: 02/18/20 03:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd just make a trip to Lowe's or Home Depot or any hardware store for the heating element. Cheaper, just as good, and quicker to get. I believe the rating is 1500 watts. Very common at the hardware store, and usually less than $10.

bob213

Fresno, CA

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Posted: 02/18/20 09:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

520789 is still available but has been replaced by 520900. OEM is 1440 watts but as fj12ryder suggested the 1500w. will work fine. Our True Value Hardware actually sells the Camco version.

mr. ed

Tucson AZ

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Posted: 02/21/20 10:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BB_TX wrote:

Heating elements are normally either good or they are bad. Can’t think of a way one could partially fail. They are basically a specialized resistor.

If you don’t have a valve problem allowing mixing of hot and cold, then I would question the thermostat/hi temp cutout.


I agree. If the water does get warm, the element is not at fault. It is either good or completely burnt out, which would result in zero warming. I've dealt with cartridge heaters in my business and occasionally one would develop a short between the heater element and the case, but that would typically trip a circuit breaker, depending on how good the grounding was to the case of the heater.


Mr. Ed (fulltiming since 1987)
Life is fragile. Handle with prayer.

2007 Hitchhiker II LS Model 29.5 LKTG (sold)
2007 Dodge Ram 3500/6.7 CTD/QC/4X4/SB/SRW/6-speed man/Big Horn edition (sold)


fj12ryder

Platte City, MO

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Posted: 02/21/20 12:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mr. ed wrote:

BB_TX wrote:

Heating elements are normally either good or they are bad. Can’t think of a way one could partially fail. They are basically a specialized resistor.

If you don’t have a valve problem allowing mixing of hot and cold, then I would question the thermostat/hi temp cutout.


I agree. If the water does get warm, the element is not at fault. It is either good or completely burnt out, which would result in zero warming. I've dealt with cartridge heaters in my business and occasionally one would develop a short between the heater element and the case, but that would typically trip a circuit breaker, depending on how good the grounding was to the case of the heater.
Unfortunately you're wrong with that demonstrative statement. As I mentioned before I have had one fail, but not completely. The problem was solved with the replacement of the element. Unless you've dealt exclusively with hundreds of cases, your experience may be incomplete.

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