Tongue Jack Needed

[kearlms]

So I messed upy shoulder last year and now am in need of installing an electric tongue Jack on the TT. I have been reading and researching, but would like some ideas on what you have and what is good out there.

[ktmrfs]

If your trailer has lots of tongue weight >1000 lbs or so look for a ball screw jack. Lighter weight acme thread is ok.

I have ball screw jacks on both my trailers. One is a older barker 2500? ball screw, my outback with 1500lbs on the tongue has a barker 3500 ball screw. Initially had a Atwood acme thread. It worked, but strained and made lots of noise.

[BarneyS]

kearlms wrote:
Snip...

So my question is do all the aforementioned jacks have crank back up?

Yes

[kearlms]

Sorry it's been so long sense I got back here. First shoulder surgery and then opening a new store through all the chaos.

So my question is do all the aforementioned jacks have crank back up?

[Ron3rd]

kearlms wrote:
So how is this one? Atwood

I've got the older version of that one and it's been fine for about 6 years. Zero problems. Can't comment on the new ones though.

[kearlms]

So how is this one? Atwood

[GrandpaKip]

Huntindog wrote:

GrandpaKip wrote:
I have not manually cranked mine, but I did find out how to do it. There is a plug on top of the motor with a 9/16 nut under the plug. At least, I think that’s the size as it’s been over 4 years. Anyhow, the top of the jack is about even with the propane tank cover, so I don’t think it will be a problem.
If this one goes kaput, I’ll just have to research and decide.
Also, like you,I have no quarrel with Lippert. Skyline seems to have ordered better frames as mine is not welded, but is an 8” one piece I-beam.

My Lippert frame is a real I beam as well. A 10" I beam 1/4" thick with 2-3/4" flanges.

Sabre spent some money on that frame.

We definitely need a like button.

[Huntindog]

GrandpaKip wrote:
I have not manually cranked mine, but I did find out how to do it. There is a plug on top of the motor with a 9/16 nut under the plug. At least, I think that’s the size as it’s been over 4 years. Anyhow, the top of the jack is about even with the propane tank cover, so I don’t think it will be a problem.
If this one goes kaput, I’ll just have to research and decide.
Also, like you,I have no quarrel with Lippert. Skyline seems to have ordered better frames as mine is not welded, but is an 8” one piece I-beam.

My Lippert frame is a real I beam as well. A 10" I beam 1/4" thick with 2-3/4" flanges.

Sabre spent some money on that frame.

[Ron3rd]

Lynnmor wrote:

Huntindog wrote:
From what I read here, and my experience, you will have the Atwood forever. Noise is the only complaint. There are many issues with the side motor mounted Jacks, and some cause them to fail. The Atwood is a top motor jack, and is the only one like it on the market.

Atwood has been bought by Lippert, another good one bites the dust.

Lippert's a huge company. Everything they make/sell/distribute TODAY is junk?

From what I've read on this forum they got the bad reputation from some bad/defective/dangerous trailer frames around 10 or 15 years ago.

Like I said in my prior post, my tongue jack is an Atwood. It came with the trailer. It works. Atwood could be a terrible company for all I know. Maybe they're owned by Lippert now?

Lippert owns a lot of companies.

[gmckenzie]

krobbe wrote:
I bought a Husky Brute 4500 many years ago. I would buy it again only this time with a remote to drop it on the ball without getting out of the tow vehicle. It raises my 1200lbs of tongue weight plus the rear of my Burb quickly and easily. Link

My next one will have a remote. Between that and the backup camera, it should make hook up alone a breeze.

[GrandpaKip]

I have not manually cranked mine, but I did find out how to do it. There is a plug on top of the motor with a 9/16 nut under the plug. At least, I think that’s the size as it’s been over 4 years. Anyhow, the top of the jack is about even with the propane tank cover, so I don’t think it will be a problem.
If this one goes kaput, I’ll just have to research and decide.
Also, like you,I have no quarrel with Lippert. Skyline seems to have ordered better frames as mine is not welded, but is an 8” one piece I-beam.

[Huntindog]

GrandpaKip wrote:
Back to jacks. The Ultra-Fab that came on ours was fine until I bought a new truck. The tailgate would not go all the way down, so I rotated it. Problem solved. The light on this unit was useless as it was mounted on the side and really didn’t illuminate very well, anyway. Now, it’s on the front, but still doesn’t have any real usefulness. If I have to hitch/unhitch in the dark, I wear a headlight.
Also, the manual crank is on the top of the motor, so rotating it didn’t affect that function.
I also always have a cover over the head. It didn’t occur to me about accidentally turning the light on. I think I’m just going to remove the bulb and be done with it. Thanks, HDog, for mentioning that.

I owned a Ultrafab once for about 20 minutes.
It was on my new TT when I picked it up back in 2009. I traveled from Phoenix AZ to Sylvania Ohio to buy it. Upon arriving, the dealer informed me that the light swith on the Ultrafab was broken. A new switch was ordered, but would not arrive in time, as we had to head home the next day. I agreed that they could mail it to me, and I would install it. Upon hitching up, the UF locked up in the extended position on the way down. The dealer got a floor jack and removed the UF. I then told them that I had lost faith in that brand of jack, and wanted an Atwood like I had on my previous TT, and I woud gladly pay whatever the difference was. They agreed. It was 65.00. The jack was not in stock, so they would ship it to me. They installed a manual jack to get me home. 3 days later I arrive home. The Atwood arrived about 6 hours later.

Does the manual crank on yours hit the propane tanks?( how the jack is rotated makes no difference, it is the swing of the crank that is the problem) It did on mine when it failed. That is how I found out about the propane tank interference, and why they used a floor jack. The manual crank was going to take a really long time.

[GrandpaKip]

Back to jacks. The Ultra-Fab that came on ours was fine until I bought a new truck. The tailgate would not go all the way down, so I rotated it. Problem solved. The light on this unit was useless as it was mounted on the side and really didn’t illuminate very well, anyway. Now, it’s on the front, but still doesn’t have any real usefulness. If I have to hitch/unhitch in the dark, I wear a headlight.
Also, the manual crank is on the top of the motor, so rotating it didn’t affect that function.
I also always have a cover over the head. It didn’t occur to me about accidentally turning the light on. I think I’m just going to remove the bulb and be done with it. Thanks, HDog, for mentioning that.

[Huntindog]

colliehauler wrote:
The best frames I've personally seen was under New Horizon and the defunct Excel RV'S. Nuwa's with young's welding were top notch as well but defunct as well.

I agree about new Horizons frames.
Also DRV is good

But those units cost 150-250K.

Which validates my point. Cost is the factor that drives RV manufacturers to specify marginal frames.

It is not a Lippert issue, as my TT is proof that they can build a stout frame.....If the manufacturer is willing to pay for it.

Unfortunantly, many are not, as most consumers do not give the frames any thought at all when shopping.
And since Lippert supplies most of the industry, they are blamed a lot.

In reality, the consumers should look in the mirror. They are the ones with the money, and so long as they do not demand better frames, and are willing to pay the increased cost.... They will get what they pay for.

[colliehauler]

The best frames I've personally seen was under New Horizon and the defunct Excel RV'S. Nuwa's with young's welding were top notch as well but defunct as well.