Hi, I am having 19 yold Lance truck camper and when I could not sell it for reasonable price (50% of NADA) I decided to use good interior for new conversion and dispose faded body.
Pictures will be coming as I already have rear dinette and shower stall installed, but would love to hear opinions about few technical dilemmas.
So I don't want propane on board, meaning all appliances will run on electricity. With bus version I have 250 amp alternator and dual AC, so I don't anticipate any power issues while on the road, when on hot days I can run the engine for some time, I have following dilemmas:
1- did anybody tried to keep refrigerator running overnight on 2 battery power?
2-how long 150W electric element takes to heat water in standard w/h? I've been using electricity for water heating in my previous RVs, but having campground hookup, I never actually timed it.
3-I plan to use camper transfer switch where inverter would be default and once I plug shore power, the relay will switch
4- no toilet on the conversion, so I am putting porta-potty inside the shower. So far a try shows that I need to lose some weight to make it working. How guys having porta-potty in van manage its use while having other people?
5-with gray water tank only I don't want to make 3" water dump. What are the smaller options?
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Pictures will be coming as I already have rear dinette and shower stall installed, but would love to hear opinions about few technical dilemmas.
So I don't want propane on board, meaning all appliances will run on electricity. With bus version I have 250 amp alternator and dual AC, so I don't anticipate any power issues while on the road, when on hot days I can run the engine for some time, I have following dilemmas:
1- did anybody tried to keep refrigerator running overnight on 2 battery power?
2-how long 150W electric element takes to heat water in standard w/h? I've been using electricity for water heating in my previous RVs, but having campground hookup, I never actually timed it.
3-I plan to use camper transfer switch where inverter would be default and once I plug shore power, the relay will switch
4- no toilet on the conversion, so I am putting porta-potty inside the shower. So far a try shows that I need to lose some weight to make it working. How guys having porta-potty in van manage its use while having other people?
5-with gray water tank only I don't want to make 3" water dump. What are the smaller options?
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.
pasusan wrote:
And - look at that nice, big refrigerator!
YEAH !!! we like to pamper ourselves to good food and that thing makes ice even with 110F outside.
So "Margarita here I come"
Did you try right click and "open image in new tab"?
I hot linked the pictures from Sprinter forum and maybe they require membership.
Can do imgur hotlinking if that is not working.
I hot linked the pictures from Sprinter forum and maybe they require membership.
Can do imgur hotlinking if that is not working.
Kayteg1 wrote:Argh! Can't see your pictures...
Kitchenette.
Had lot of leftover doors from camper, what made nice cargo covers.
Bus had factory 12V outlets on rear pillars, where I rewired left one for house batteries. Now since engine was not started for long time, I run visible jump wire between the outlets, to use house converter to keep chassis battery at top charge.
zcookiemonstar wrote:
If you want to heat your water while driving you can also look into a heat exchanger using the engine to heat your water.
I was thinking about it, but tapping into engine heating system is not that easy, while bringing higher risk of something failing.
My plan is to use shore power to heat the water before morning departure and with extra insulation I put, WH should hold the temperature till the night.
So using alternator for water heating will be used on rare occasions only.
I was also thinking about getting Webasto coolant heater for the purpose, but that would bring high complication and high cost as well.
Keep it simple.
Kitchenette.
Had lot of leftover doors from camper, what made nice cargo covers.
Bus had factory 12V outlets on rear pillars, where I rewired left one for house batteries. Now since engine was not started for long time, I run visible jump wire between the outlets, to use house converter to keep chassis battery at top charge.
Had lot of leftover doors from camper, what made nice cargo covers.
Bus had factory 12V outlets on rear pillars, where I rewired left one for house batteries. Now since engine was not started for long time, I run visible jump wire between the outlets, to use house converter to keep chassis battery at top charge.
Thanks for the tips about induction cooker.
I had induction cooktop in my rental years ago and it did not work with tenants too well, so did hesitate, but now single burner is cheap enough, so I bought 1 on amazon.
I am a bit confused. Cooktop manual says I need steel pot, when aluminium pots have label on them that I could use them?
Will have to make some experiments, but now, I am getting exited when projects start showing what it is going to be.
I had induction cooktop in my rental years ago and it did not work with tenants too well, so did hesitate, but now single burner is cheap enough, so I bought 1 on amazon.
I am a bit confused. Cooktop manual says I need steel pot, when aluminium pots have label on them that I could use them?
Will have to make some experiments, but now, I am getting exited when projects start showing what it is going to be.
I have 1000W inverter generator as well. Even I have big Honda for years, when fellow forum member gave a tip about HD having them on sale for $150, I just could not refuse to buy it ;).
For years I have propane burner that screws on top of small cylinder.
Used it on the boat, but one time, while cooking on the beach my wife kicked the pot over.
So potatoes were extra crispy that day . Only lately I found I can buy enlarged shoe for the cylinders.
Even I have electric cooktop, I never used it in RV. I found out my favorite is toaster/oven, where I can bake kielbasa, zucchini, onions and tomatoes, while potatoes are easy to bake in microwave.
So I plan to carry those 2 units in this van, although they will have to go under the bed for travel.
I already build smaller cabinet on driver side, who will have to serve as wardrobe, leaving narrow side for shelving. Maybe small appliances will fit there for travel and countertop will be good place for using them.
For years I have propane burner that screws on top of small cylinder.
Used it on the boat, but one time, while cooking on the beach my wife kicked the pot over.
So potatoes were extra crispy that day . Only lately I found I can buy enlarged shoe for the cylinders.
Even I have electric cooktop, I never used it in RV. I found out my favorite is toaster/oven, where I can bake kielbasa, zucchini, onions and tomatoes, while potatoes are easy to bake in microwave.
So I plan to carry those 2 units in this van, although they will have to go under the bed for travel.
I already build smaller cabinet on driver side, who will have to serve as wardrobe, leaving narrow side for shelving. Maybe small appliances will fit there for travel and countertop will be good place for using them.
Click For Full-Size Image.So this is my set before doing electrical.
Another question. I want to put 6 belts in the dinette, who is going to be elevated.
Sprinter has 2 factory anchors I can use for belts with M12 (about 1/2") threaded holes on the side, what is good. Than the bus had wheelchair lift installed and the converter add 2 more anchors on the sides, but in 7/16" diameter. Than I have grab bars in the rear with M8 factory anchors.
When I don't intend to make the van having full rollover ratings, the 7/16" added anchors seem to be on weak size?
