Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Taaadaaa! Took the plunge. Airbags on the Class A
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Maintenance Issues & Tips

 > Taaadaaa! Took the plunge. Airbags on the Class A

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev
MrWizard

Traveling

Moderator

Joined: 06/27/2004

View Profile



Posted: 01/17/21 05:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you for the Tip
On my knees instead of squatting


Radiate The Happy
....

Connected using Verizon and AT&T
1997 F53 Bounder 36s


MrWizard

Traveling

Moderator

Joined: 06/27/2004

View Profile



Posted: 01/17/21 08:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]

[image]

No way to avoid the body flange, it covers the area where the airbag top bracket bolts to the chassis,
I'm not sure the body flange steel, is as mild as the chassis steel, I think it's harder steel,

Stim

NE Florida

Senior Member

Joined: 05/23/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/18/21 06:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have drilled a few hundred holes in semi frames mounting axles/equipment and I can't imagine using battery tools!
We used a 1/2" drill with a "D" handle AND put a chain around the frame through the "D" in a loupe. With chain tight you rotate the drill which forces the drill into the hole.
In your case you might try a rope around the frame and drill to get more force.
You also must use slow speed with lub.

jeromep

Eastern Washington State

Full Member

Joined: 08/27/2020

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 01/18/21 07:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Stim wrote:

I have drilled a few hundred holes in semi frames mounting axles/equipment and I can't imagine using battery tools!
We used a 1/2" drill with a "D" handle AND put a chain around the frame through the "D" in a loupe. With chain tight you rotate the drill which forces the drill into the hole.
In your case you might try a rope around the frame and drill to get more force.
You also must use slow speed with lub.


I've done a few holes in frames also. Had to get an electric 1/2" chuck drill with a side handle (not a "D" handle, but similar concept), plus the correct bits and lube. The electric drill with the right bits really makes all the difference. I don't think there are too many battery powered tools that will do what you are trying to do.

RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

Senior Member

Joined: 10/26/2002

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/25/21 01:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I drilled my frame with a Dewalt 1/2" Li battery drill motor & Harbor Freight Titanium(?) (at least they were yellow/gold in color) drill bits. Maybe, just maybe the difference is, I have a Black & Decker drill bit sharpener that does a really nice job of putting an edge on my bits. Turn the bit slow and push hard.
The picture of the partially drilled hole looks polished on the bottom, where as it should show cut lines from the drill bit. Looks like the bit dulled before finishing the hole.
Another option might be bringing in a on site welder. Just need a little shielding. Wife's cookie pans work well...GRIN

Richard

PS: MrWizzard, what part of the country are you located in? We're spending the winter in southern AZ. (Q) in the cold (45ยบ) & the rain.

* This post was edited 01/25/21 01:29pm by RLS7201 *


95 Bounder 32H F53
460/528 stroker
Web Master
MWPSchooners.com
First brake job
1941 Hudson


MrWizard

Traveling

Moderator

Joined: 06/27/2004

View Profile



Posted: 02/08/21 01:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Southern California, wish I was visiting in 'Q', I think 2016 was my last trip there
First air spring bag is installed
New cobalt steel drill bits, made the difference
Finishing the first hole was easy, lower hole on left side of bracket
Drilling 2nd hole, wasn't too bad, thru the frame , no flange, fender washers to make a gap filling spacer,no body flange ( yes I worked counter clockwise from the first hole position )
Number 3 ,forward facing upper hole above number 2, for right side of upper bracket, thru body flange then frame, same as hole #1, that was a lot more work, than drilling just thru the frame , but the cobalt drills did the job, ##4 same thing,
Final bolt down and running the airline was easy
Hopefully
Doing drivers side today/Sunday,
Tried last weekend, could not get wheel lug nuts loosened
Bought an electric impact wrench, weighs 12.5# ,has 450 ft pounds of torque, with good luck I might not break an arm today, this side will require more prep work, there are.. brake lines and fuels along inside of frame member, don't want to damage those items

MrWizard

Traveling

Moderator

Joined: 06/27/2004

View Profile



Posted: 02/09/21 11:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Still have not completed the 2nd install, the drivers side
But I did test the new electric 1/2" drive impact wrench, one by one, I loosened and tighten all 10 lug nuts on the driver side duals,
Other things have intervened and prevented me from have the time to complete the job

MrWizard

Traveling

Moderator

Joined: 06/27/2004

View Profile



Posted: 02/12/21 03:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lower back pain, pain in my right hand, and other chores, have halted all exterior RV work
Hopefully to be completed soon

MrWizard

Traveling

Moderator

Joined: 06/27/2004

View Profile



Posted: 02/15/21 03:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]

[image]

Air lift, air spring, bag #2, drivers side installed completed,
This side was more complicated, outside of frame where the bag mounts, 3 electrical harness runs, a 2 wire power run for the external fuel pump installed last year,
Inside of the frame brake lines and fuel lines
Positioning and drilling were critical, one hole clipped the edge of the shock absorber mounting bracket, which faces forward from the axle on the drivers side, was not a factor on the curbside installation.
I have 70# air pressure in each bag, but plan on adjusting each bag up or down in the next few days after a little bit of test driving, I know the curbside is the heavy side and will need more air than the drivers side, I run fully loaded most of the time, so once I get it set, I won't need to be changing the air set points, just check and maintain them, fleet wood designed this thing as rear end heavy, curbside heavy

* This post was last edited 02/15/21 10:37am by MrWizard *   View edit history

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Maintenance Issues & Tips

 > Taaadaaa! Took the plunge. Airbags on the Class A
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.