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Cleaning NL (fiberglass) shell

bkenobi
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 2007 NL that currently lives outside uncovered. I'm hoping to get that resolved this year, but in the mean time I'm curious about proper cleaning others have performed. I wash it less than it should be really, but need some guidance on lichen and streaks. The sides get sprayed when they start looking green but I dont get up top often.

I have a soft brush on a pole and a microfiber covered sponge thingy. I usually use auto soap with "wax" in it and go to it. In areas that are bad, I have stiffer brushes and used dawn this time. Cleaned the sides ok, but the top is fighting back a bit. And what do you recommend for streaks (water drain path down from battery door for example)?

Camper place recommended 303 Aerospace Cleaner but reviews suggest that it leaves silicon. If I was properly wont silicon be a problem?
24 REPLIES 24

Kayteg1
Explorer
Explorer
I've been using Formula 303 since the time when they had single formula for everything. All my fiberglass RV got treatments, when my boat was sprayed whole from bimini top to trailer tires.
Also good water repellent on windshields.
Main advantage
"spray on, wipe off NO CLEANING NECESSARY" and it is actually pretty good cleaner. Not for mildew though.
This product will wear when driving in the rain, but Walmart had good deal on 1 gallon bottles ordered on the net.
With few minutes for application, why not?

Tizi
Explorer
Explorer
I use Awesome from the dollar store diluted to 50% to clean top to bottom the fiberglass surfaces. Then once dry, I use a cleaner wax with a buffing machine to remove oxidation. Then I use a lighter wax by hand. I typically use Meguiar's RV waxes.
2008 Dodge Ram 2500 QC 4x4 - HEMI
2007 Northern Lite 10.2 RR
Tizi's Transformer by Whazoo

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
Some of the kitchen scouring pads are quite abrasive. I used pads that were plastic and sold as non scratch, soft scrub. Bar Keepers Friend and Bon Ami are very mild abrasive cleaners. They can also be used. Never use Comet or any of the coarse abrasive cleaners or any of the aggressive cleaning pads.

You may not need to use any of these products and if necessary a gentle scrubbing should be sufficient. I used a soft plastic kitchen sponge and BKF because I had some oxidation on a 10 year old camper. The light scrubbing also helped to remove layers of wax. Before deciding to use ZEP I had spent a full day waxing with Mequire's Marine Wax. I had rubbed on 2 coats and the finish still looked nasty, mottled and uneven.

I have been told and believe that in order to achieve a long lasting ZEP finish it is necessary to remove oxidation, dirt and old wax. Anyway with thorough surface prep, my ZEP finish has lasted without any cracking or peeling and no yellowing that I can detect.

Using a scouring pad and BKF sounds like a lot of work. It was actually quick and easy and way less work than wiping the haze with a typical carnuba wax application. The little work needed is all in the prep. Wiping on the ZEP finish could not be easier. You just want to use a small rag dampened in ZEP and wipe on several thin coats. Just be sure to avoid any runs and dripping.

bkenobi
Explorer
Explorer
Was confused why one said no brillo and another said kitchen scouring pad. I've always called the green scrubbing pads on the back of a scotch bright a brillo pad. I just searched and found that brillo are steel wool with soap embedded in them. So now I know why such a strong reaction to what I thought was a no brainers. LOL

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have not had any need to repair roof caulking for several years. Since I have an aluminum roof, I have not used ZEP on the roof. If you have caulk covered with a ZEP finish, I would use a little ammonia or wax stripper, then clean with mineral spirits.

bkenobi
Explorer
Explorer
What about reapplying new caulk? Seems like every time I turn around I find a split/cracked seam.

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
Siletzspey wrote:
gbopp wrote:
This is the Process For Applying Zep.


Looking at some boat forums, it looks like Zep is highly regarded (!), but some users are saying at best it lasts 1-2 years more than wax, and then you're in for a bigger job to strip the old and apply the new. Frosting and peeling were two issues raised.

Still, I'm curious what others have experienced on campers. Re-waxing the sides is easy enough, but I'd love a longer lived roof coating.

--SiletzSpey


I am on my 5th year with ZEP. No peeling, no yellowing, no signs of any deterioration. If I had to start over, I would strip the old finish with a couple washes with dilute ammonia. I would probably use a kitchen scrub pad to make sure all the old finish was removed. Then I would just reapply by wiping on coats with a rag dampened with ZEP. I expect to have to do that one of these days...maybe a few more years from now.

ZEP should work just fine for a fiberglass roof. It will even stick on top of caulk after the caulk has thoroughly dried.

Siletzspey
Explorer
Explorer
gbopp wrote:
This is the Process For Applying Zep.


Looking at some boat forums, it looks like Zep is highly regarded (!), but some users are saying at best it lasts 1-2 years more than wax, and then you're in for a bigger job to strip the old and apply the new. Frosting and peeling were two issues raised.

Still, I'm curious what others have experienced on campers. Re-waxing the sides is easy enough, but I'd love a longer lived roof coating.

--SiletzSpey

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
As stiff brush may leave "slight" scratches (hard to see on white), but not likely.
I wouldn't worry about any plastic type brush like a scrub brush, but the best bet is just test an inconspicuous area with whatever device or solution you're using if you have any doubt.

Gel coat is tough stuff.

Also an orange based cleaner/degreaser may work well and simple green sounds like something good to try.

If it's just crusted on organics, time for the cleaner to penetrate/soak in and soften will help too.

A great, but somewhat expensive, spray and wash away cleaner is cycle wash, for dirt bikes. That stuff is pretty awesome. It penetrates baked on dirt/scum and is also a mild de-greaser.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

bkenobi
Explorer
Explorer
So what is tough enough to clean but not damage gel coat?I've been using a semi stiff brush (similar to finger nail cleaner) and a soft brush on a pole for the most part.

bigfootgrey
Explorer
Explorer
Yeah Stay away from the Brillo pads! The gel coat will love you for it! If you have any stubborn stains, try the cleaner wax and some elbow grease.
2011 Ford F-350 PSD SC DRW
2008 Bigfoot 25C-10.4E
Firestone airbags - torklift stable-loads,fastguns,Talons Rancho rs 9000XL’s.

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
I wouldn’t use brillo pads or anything that abrasive.

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member

bkenobi
Explorer
Explorer
I forgot I had simple green already. Sounds like it's worth a try. Are brillo pads too aggressive?

bigfootgrey
Explorer
Explorer


Wash with simple green then apply a quality marine wax like 3-M cleaner wax. Lots of work but lasts
2011 Ford F-350 PSD SC DRW
2008 Bigfoot 25C-10.4E
Firestone airbags - torklift stable-loads,fastguns,Talons Rancho rs 9000XL’s.