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 > Rebuilding my eu2000i... (never did this before)

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groundhogy

PA

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Posted: 04/05/20 08:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My generator stopped working and I had it to three shops. One got it working and after ten hours, it died (he said he decarbonized). The second two guys couldn't get it running. So I thought it must be something deep inside wrong.

So I pulled the whole thing apart. Labeled things and put them in baggies. Took pics as I disassembled.

I am now examining the parts. I found an old GX-100 shop manual online. This has the specs on things like valves, piston wear dimensions, etc.

I have zero experience, but, having said that, it doesn't look to bad inside. Like I can still see the machining lines on the piston. You know where the cutter went over it?

The valves look somewhat suspect. I did wiggle the valves in the guides and the Intake is tight. The exhaust wiggles a bit more. There is some carbon around the edges of the valve seats. The valve doesn't look like a nice 45 degree flat either. It's kind of cupped where it touches the seat. But I have not cleaned the valves yet, so that might be an illusion with the crud.

I am trying to find this big defect that prevented the motor from running, but it is not sticking out at me.

Could the valve carbon have caused decompression?

I do remember at the end, when it did run, it had lost power.

Any comments or big belly laughs weclome. lol.

groundhogy

PA

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Posted: 04/05/20 08:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So, say if I order a new cylinder and two valves.

Will they mate perfectly out of the box?
Also, will the valve guides be already pressed into the new cylinder?

DFord

Near St Louis, MO

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Posted: 04/05/20 09:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Three things are important - compression, spark and fuel. Even if they don't arrive when they should, it should at least backfire if they're all present. You should have checked the compression before you took it apart. Did it have a good hot spark? Was the plug wet with gasoline?


Don Ford
2004 Safari Trek 31SBD (F53/V10 20,500GVW)
'09 HHR 2LT or '97 Aerostar MiniVan (Remco driveshaft disconnect) for Towed vehicles
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edbehnke

North America (from Michigan)

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Posted: 04/05/20 09:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

advice from an old guy....buy another generator.


eddie and sandie
3402 Montana 2013
Ford F350 2015

wra

Florida

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Posted: 04/05/20 09:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It could have been as simple as the carburetor fuel shut off being stuck or sluggish. I wish you would have asked before disassembling the thing.

valhalla360

No paticular place.

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Posted: 04/06/20 04:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

edbehnke wrote:

advice from an old guy....buy another generator.


Unless you just enjoy projects...this is my answer if the pros can't get it going.


Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2008 Copper Canyon 5er
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midnightsadie

ohio

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Posted: 04/06/20 05:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

your like me I hate things that don,t run. but your on the way now. I,d fight it to the end. your valves don,t sound good. daddy said it takes three things for a engine to run ...gas,,, spark,, compression. the rest is just making it happen at the right time.p.s the end is when you give up.

Lynnmor

Red Lion

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Posted: 04/06/20 06:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it just "died" then the ignition quit or the fuel stopped flowing.

Throwing parts at it is not the best approach. The valves may be OK, I can't see them from here, but they wouldn't have caused a sudden dying.

Put it back together and check for spark, use an old plug with the gap opened a bit more and watch for spark as you pull the rope. If you have spark and the thing doesn't fire, remove the spark plug and put a few drops of gas down the hole and quickly reinstall the plug and pull. If it fires briefly, then you have a carburetor or fuel pump issue, and that is where I would have started.





BobsYourUncle

Calgary Alberta Canada

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Posted: 04/06/20 07:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If your valves seating properly is an issue, or you think it's an issue, you could try "lapping" them.

In my younger years I would do my own valve jobs this way when I was too cheap, oops I mean broke to pay a shop to do it.

Lapping the valves is a process of freshening up the mating surfaces.

This is easily done in your own shop by removing the retainer and spring, then getting a small can of valve grinding compound, fine and course at opposite sides of the same can, and a nifty little tool that is a straight rod with a suction cup on each end.

Smear a little compound on the sealing surface of the valve, put it in the hole, then put the suction cup on the valve. Then, using 2 hands you put them against the suction cup rod and run your hands in opposite directions, rotating the valve back and forth quickly.

This process cleans up the mating surfaces quite nicely. Start with coarse, finish with fine.

And it gives a visual of the 2 surfaces so you can see the contact area. If a valve is deformed or a seat is kaput, you will see it.
The mating surfaces should be nice and even.

I have done this process on scores of engines prior to having the money to take the heads to a machine shop. It works on all engines, big and small.

Ah the memories of my youth!


2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ
Dmax/Allison

1997 Triple E Topaz 27' Bunkhouse TT

I do
Precision Guesswork
based on
Vague Assumptions
&
Unreliable Data of Dubious Accuracy
provided by persons of
Questionable Intellectual Capacity

Now, What would you like done?


Roger10378

Goodrich, MI.

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Posted: 04/06/20 07:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another problem with small engines is that the valve seats wear enough that the valves don't seat anymore. Did you check the gap before you disassembled? If not you need to reassemble enough to check. If there is not enough gap between the valve and lifter you will have to grind enough off the valve stem to get the right gap. I don't know the spec for your engine but it is usually in the .005-.010 inch area.


2005 Cardinal 30TS
2007 Chevy 2500HD D/A

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