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 > Cost to install apparatus for Flat-towing

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down home

south

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Posted: 04/17/20 03:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There are mny choices available to us. We had to go the route we took because I'm 100% DAV and time and age adds to the disability.
I wwould have to do research but if I could have done it my seelf, I'm sure I could have saved half, and more, perhaps.l
We chose Roadmasterwhich cost more, as at thetiem it was only avaiable through Dealers and fair traded, because Blue ox base plates, mounts to the towed had a reputation of coming apart, and the Roadmaster air brake.
Wee would have changed the airbrake to an Air Raid possibly but out towed gave out and the Dealer got a new base eplate etc and used our old brake system for a total cost of about 800.00 change over, this time,I am thinking at the moment.
A Jeep or F150 etc can or could have the towing hardware purchased and installed for just a few dollars. The new construction of crush zones etc by NHTSA I don't know. Wiring doesn't cost mcuh but correct installaation does at probably 100.00 to 125.00 an hour. An hour anyway to do it right.Air brake and under hood reservoir, and the in car brake ram and mount was not cheap.
If you get the opportnitty to decide to where to mount the 4 pin or 6 pin, corrd to your vehiclee and an air brake hose get it up high as itis now takes me a long time and struggle to hook them up, just to plug them in with a ruputred disc toward my left side.

Bill.Satellite

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Posted: 04/17/20 06:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dodge guy wrote:

Ludicrous? its the same scenario! If I worried that much about everything I wouldn't leave the house!

Maybe you should not!


What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

Bill.Satellite

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Posted: 04/17/20 07:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To explain my thinking, which I should not have to do, I bought a used tow bar many years ago. While driving down the road I noticed a strange wobble in the rear view camera. It wasn't bad and it didn't effect the drive or the ride. We arrived at an RV rally and took this name brand tow bar to the manufacturer to check it out. One side of the tow bar had completely failed and the only choice was replacement. I agreed and went with another brand as I did not like the design of this manufacturer. Oh yea, New! Never used again. I became a big Blue Ox fan once I dumped the other. [emoticon]

Executive

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Posted: 04/18/20 01:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DallasSteve wrote:

Executive wrote:

Are you buying everything new? I bought a used ReadyBrute that looked brand new for $250. Had Night Shift Auto go through it at a rally and they said it'd hardly been used. Bought the baseplate directly from BlueOx for a little over $300. Wiring harness was around $200. So for less than $1k I'm ready to roll. I've been using it for 11 years now and it's still working well. So, I'm into it for less than $100/yr.....Dennis

You don't mention a brake system. Did you do anything for that? What was the cost on that? I suppose you can say your $1K makes it towable, but for me I would need a braking system.


Check the NightShiftAuto website and read about the ReadyBrute. It incorporates the braking system INTO the tow bar itself via surge braking. Nothing extra to buy, nothing extra to fiddle with. That said, I've also incorporated the ReadyStop into my system. This device ensures the brakes on the toad will automatically deploy if it's separated from the coach. No runaway vehicle.....Dennis

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Solo

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Posted: 04/18/20 04:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Michael:

You have received information on several different types of set-ups and costs already so now your task is to do more research on the specific types you are interested in. Perhaps you have already did your due diligence but, here''s my 2 cents if you have not. I would suggest you direct your search to the type of coach you have-gas vs diesel and the type of toad. The reason I suggest to limit your search to specific vehicles is that some systems are easier to install than others depending upon what you have (does your toad need a transmission lube pump, anything additional to make it 4 down towable, etc.) and the type of Class A rig you are pulling it with makes a difference too. All systems have owners who have had great performance or equally unfortunate issues. Find your comfort level with the choice you make and then inspect your set-up frequently while towing-nothing is fool-proof.

One addition that most systems make optional is a coach indicator that notifies you when the toad brakes are being applied. This in my opinion is a MUST and will help to eliminate many of the problems you hear about when using any of the brake/tow bar systems. There's a difference in those indicator systems too so, pay attention to how they operate and again, make your choice on what will work best for your situation.


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obiwancanoli

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Posted: 04/18/20 08:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you all so much for your input! It seems clear that I can do this effectively at a lower cost than CW quoted... so, I know what to do, just not sure how...

I have a friend who's installed these, so I need only to gather the necessary parts. Ford says my Edge is flat-towable, so, I can do the research and look for parts on Craig's List and elsewhere...

Of course, I'll need a baseplate for my car, the towing mechanism for the RV, and a wiring harness to connect the two... I like the idea of the ReadyBrute, but what else do I need to complete the task?
I suppose what I need is a list, and will review the posts to see if I can compile one myself...

By the way, the MH is a Newmar Ventana LE DP (2017), the toad is a 2017 Ford Edge 3.5L, FWD

* This post was edited 04/18/20 09:05am by obiwancanoli *

Alan_Hepburn

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Posted: 04/18/20 03:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

obiwancanoli wrote:


Of course, I'll need a baseplate for my car, the towing mechanism for the RV, and a wiring harness to connect the two... I like the idea of the ReadyBrute, but what else do I need to complete the task?
I suppose what I need is a list, and will review the posts to see if I can compile one myself...


Here's my shopping list when we bought our Wrangler a few months ago - got everything from rvupgrades.com:

Ready Brute RB-9050 Elite Tow Bar With Blueox Clevis $1,150.00
Readybrake RS-5000 Readystop Towed Vehicle Break Away $97.99
Hopkins 56200 Wrangler 2007-2017 Towed Vehicle Wiring Kit $52.95
Blue Ox Base Plate BX1126 Jeep Wrangler 2007 - 2018 $414.52


Subtotal: $1,715.46
Tax: $0.00
Shipping Cost: $0.00
Grand Total: $1,715.46


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jarata1

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Posted: 04/18/20 06:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You also need the in car break about 1500

way2roll

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Posted: 04/19/20 06:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jarata1 wrote:

You also need the in car break about 1500


Not with the ready brute elite. It's built in.


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crawford

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Posted: 04/21/20 06:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bill.Satellite wrote:

While I mean no disrespect to anyone who has previously posted, I am not buying any used equipment from anyone for any reason to tow a car. What if it goes bad and the car gets loose and kills someone? Yep, saved $1000 but I am now broke due to all the lawsuits. At least if everything is new and installed by professionals I have some legal cushion to fall back on. I will also sleep really, really well every night knowing that what is installed on my coach is the best quality and done the way the company specs require.

I just want to throw this out I been using my system 15 year never a problem If I sold it at 8 years what would be the problem? Just saying buy a name brand and you do know you also have safety chains to car and a braking system if it ever came loose. You base plate your would be really lucky if you found a used one so most likely a new one. Mine after bolted it was also welded on. So buying use doesn't mean not safe and I am just explaining it to you not trying to be mean.


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