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 > Atwood hot water heater -- Too darn hot

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wildtoad

Blythewood, SC

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Posted: 04/24/20 01:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The wh has a fixed t-stat set to 130 (never heard that 120 was a legal limit as I don’t think it is). If you have a shut off valve on the shower head that completely turns off the flow you may want to change it to one that still leaves a trickle flowing. I remember reading somewhere that the reasons for the 130 degrees had to do with killing bacteria and allowing the little six gallon water heaters to supply enough hw especially on cold nights.


Tom Wilds
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way2roll

Wilmington NC

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Posted: 04/24/20 01:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wildtoad wrote:

The wh has a fixed t-stat set to 130 (never heard that 120 was a legal limit as I don’t think it is). If you have a shut off valve on the shower head that completely turns off the flow you may want to change it to one that still leaves a trickle flowing. I remember reading somewhere that the reasons for the 130 degrees had to do with killing bacteria and allowing the little six gallon water heaters to supply enough hw especially on cold nights.


Anti scald hot water codes are 120 for residential. Been in place for decades.

International Plumbing Code 1993, Max 120°F.
Uniform Plumbing Code (IAPMO / ICBO) 1994, Max 120°F.
SBCCI or International Plumbing Code (1996), Max 120°F.

etc etc


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NRALIFR

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Posted: 04/24/20 01:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would not turn the temperature down on the water heater. That will reduce the amount of hot water you will get out of it because you won’t be mixing as much cold water with it to temper it.

I used to have the same problem in my truck camper, the shower water would be either all hot or all cold after turning it off at the shower head.

I fixed mine by replacing he shower mixing valve with one that is thermostaticly controlled.

The one I used is a much more compact version of this one. Mine works great and I’m glad I installed it, but I would only recommend using the smaller one if you have the space limitations I did. The smaller one is much more difficult to install.

Thermostatic Shower Valve

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mchero

Henniker, NH

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Posted: 04/24/20 01:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Over two pages of posts and NOBODY has a make/model of the hot water heater.
Some Atwood models heat the water to 180 degrees and use a mixing valve on the backside of the hot water heater. These mixing valves can get stuck and deliver scalding hot water.

What make/model of your hot water heater?
Turning off the shower head by turning off the valve at the shower head will never be at the same temp when you turn it back on. It takes a couple seconds to get back to adjusted temp. Ours will deliver a blast of cold water before returning to warm.


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wanderingaimlessly

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Posted: 04/24/20 01:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Due to the small size, RV tank type water heaters are usually set hotter than household units because at only six gallons (or even 10) you would likely run out of hot water before finishing a shower.
If the water is getting hotter than you want, as mentioned before , mix more cold or if possible turn off either the propane or electric side of the heater to slow the refill/warm rate.
Using it with only one heat source should help.

RJsfishin

Winston Or.

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Posted: 04/24/20 03:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

there is a 120 deg stat available for the attwood I changed it in every attwood I've had. My now suburban WH seems to be ok w/ std stat.


Rich

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midnightsadie

ohio

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Posted: 04/24/20 04:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tuff it out, learn where the best setting is and take your shower. p.s I agree way to hot. a better mixing system would be nice.

wa8yxm

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Posted: 04/24/20 04:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Atwood makes several different T-Stats from 120 to 180 if I'm not mistaken
NOW if it gets too hot (Like 190) it fauits (Not sure of the eco but it is either 180 or 190 or 200 if I'm not mistaken, and I well may be)

The T-stat (And the ECo for that matter) need to make good contact with the tank. if the tank is not touching the T-Stat. it gets over-hot.

This can happen if the tank has been replaced.


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happy2rv

Huntsville, AL, USA

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Posted: 04/24/20 04:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Scalding is certainly a valid concern. That's why I recommended a mixing valve with an anti-scalding feature. I don't think relying on using the faucets for the primary mixing and anti-scalding purpose is the right answer. Too many factors can affect the mixing at an individual faucet. As others have already mentioned, opening another faucet or otherwise changing the balance of pressure in the lines will change the mixture one way or the other. Not to mention that children or guests might not be aware of the potential scalding danger.

Unfortunately I don't have personal experience with how well the purpose built water heater mixing valves work or how effective their anti-scald features are.


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Previous RVs and TOADS
2004 Fleetwood Bounder 32W on WH W20
2000 Four Winds 5000 21RB
1986 27' Allegro
TOADS
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2004 Suzuki Aerio
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Traver8

West TX

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Posted: 04/24/20 05:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One other possibility that I don't think I have seen mentioned is the possibility that the normal Tatar has failed and only the Eco stat is controlling the temp. This would be hotter than "normal" and easily resolved. Just another thought. Ensuring God clean contact with the tank wall is another excellent thing to check.

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