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 > 2002 Lance 811 Rebuild - Update 08.03.2020-FILON TODAY!

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BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 05/10/20 07:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK making some progress, got the skin off the street side front exposing the rot. The construction on these is great, the aluminum roof is wrapped over the wall, so leaks are not possible from the top. Unfortunately not such from the windows...This is street side bedroom window

[image]

So the ticket in getting the siding off is an air chisel. This little baby set me back $20 and is awesome. I was using the Sonicrafter osciallting saw with a scxraper blade, then a wood blade, but the adhesive is VERY sticky and just gummed it up. This chisel is the bomb!

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I took a hand grinder to the stock chisel blad and made it like a wood chisel...it goes right thru the adhesive! Just have to be careful not to gouge the framing. I need a wider chisel head:

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Wind was really blowing here this weekend, will post more pics as I get further along this week.

I should probably post some pics of my "ghetto garage"...My garage has an 8' door and 9' ceiling but still too short for the camper. So I moved it to the parking area I had made for the TT so it would off the lawn. I needed a way to tarp it so I could still work on it, so came up with this clothesline design using the HF 9 mil silver tarp. It's been taking a beating the last few days in steady 20 mph winds with 40 mph gusts, but still mostly intact.

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* This post was last edited 07/20/20 12:40pm by BurbMan *   View edit history


2015 Ram 3500 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab Long Box, Cummins diesel

Under renovations:
2002 Lance 811 Slide-In Camper
Follow the Renovation here!

SOLD: 2001 K2500 Suburban LT 8.1L/4.10
2008 Terry 34' TT many mods, Hensley Hitch


AnEv942

CA

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Posted: 05/11/20 09:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cool. progress

* This post was last edited 05/11/20 05:24pm by AnEv942 *   View edit history


01 Ford F250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
Our camper projects page


BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 05/11/20 11:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sorry about that, I fixed the links

Kayteg1

California > Nevada

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Posted: 05/11/20 11:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good find on using the air chisel.
Few years ago, on Ford Truck I had to remove radiator fan, who had big thread on the shaft. All holdings to keep the shaft from turning failed as it had higher torque than it suppose. Belt kept slipping, while w pump pulley had no good point to grab. Spend like 3 hr on tires, till I decided to go on the net for advice.
Found the Ford Guy on youtube using air chisel to loose big nut.
Had tool already and 15 seconds later the fan was off.





mountainkowboy

Socal > NE Oregon

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Posted: 05/22/20 06:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ours took 6 months to do, or redo....lol

[image]


Chuck & Ruth with 4-legged Molly
1990 F350 S/C Lariat Dually (Red)
1990 S&S 11SC Cabover
2011 Ford Ranger
1987 HD FLHTP


BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 06/01/20 12:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

**UPDATE JUNE 01, 2020**

The weather here has not been the greatest, not so much the rain but the wind has made it hard to work under that tarp.

Nonetheless, we have reached the tipping point, where disassembly stops and re-assembly begins!

I got the whole street side off of the camper. Hatches back-to-front are sewer hose storage, outside shower, battery, shore cord and HW heater. Good news, the roof was tight as a drum. Not sure what was leaking but the whole bottom corner is gone.

[image]

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In this pic, the molded wet bath is on the top, the gray tank is below it and the black tank is toward the right (rear of the camper). Hard to see in the pic but there is a heat duct that dumps hot air in there right by the trap.

As you can see from the Ace Hardware coupling, there was a problem here once before. My guess is that the coupling is leaking.

[image]

I got the front off so I can address both front corners where the jacks attach. Don't mind the fridge cover, that's there as a squirrel deterrent...

[image]

You can see in this pic that the 1x3 that run along the bottom the cabover is bowed, so I plan on jacking it up to straighten it out and then replacing that piece. Nearer in the pic you can a 1x6 sized flakeboard piece that was glued heavily to the interior and exterior panels, and a leaky kitchen window did that in. That piece used to extend all the way doen to the horizontal cabover edge and from the looks of it was the base support for that angle piece to keep the cabover from sagging.

[image]

So far it looks like the cabover floor is dry and the front fiberglas nose is OK, so the damage is limited to the sides.

I was able to get the battery in and confirm that everything works, now I need to pull that weight out and square up the side. I also ordered solar and want to run those wires down the wall before I button it up. Once all the carpentry is done it'll be time to road trip the new truck to Elkhart for a roll of Filon.

* This post was last edited 07/15/20 10:58am by BurbMan *   View edit history

BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 06/07/20 11:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

**UPDATE JUNE 07, 2020**

I thought I was ready to start rebuilding, but then I considered that it didn't make sense to do only one side of the cabover...The side panels being glued to the frame create most of the structural integrity, so I thought it made more sense to work front to back instead of side to side.

I also wanted to brace the cabover. It was clear from the street side damage that the cabover is drooping, so I didn't want to pull off the other side panel without supporting the structure. This allowed me to jack it back into place and square/level; it with the main body.

[image]

Just like the street side, the curb side cabover window was leaking. The roof was dry.

[image]

You can see here that the 1x3 that runs the length of the edge is missing about 2', it literally crumbled like a cookie when I pulled the skin off. All this for the sake of $0.50 worth of caulk....
[image]

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The damage goes across, you can see again the 5-1/2" wide piece of flakeboard that is a major structural piece is gone:

[image]

I was hoping to leave the underside of the cabover alone, but as you can see the water went in about 18", I never would have dried that out.
[image]

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What's interesting is that everything up top is dry as a bone...but the bottom 1x3 was so wet it was literally dripping water. My theory is that when the wood below got saturated, it started to migrate to the rear. These windows must have been leaking for years.

[image]

So work continues....stay tuned!

* This post was edited 07/15/20 11:03am by BurbMan *

joerg68

St. Ingbert, Germany

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Posted: 06/08/20 12:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This looks like a lot of work. It can be done, and I have seen a few campers like this come back to life. It will look a lot worse before it starts to look better. Hang in there!


2014 Ford F350 XLT 6.2 SCLB + 2017 Northstar Arrow


mountainkowboy

Socal > NE Oregon

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Posted: 06/10/20 12:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yup, it took us 6 months to fix the S&S. That was 12 years ago, I will (de-skin) it one more time and fix/redo/upgrade it one more time.

mellow

Salisbury, MD

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Posted: 06/10/20 02:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't overlook replacing some of the filon with diamond plate to get some extra life out of it

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2002 F-350 7.3 Lariat 4x4 DRW ZF6
2008 Lance 1191 - 220w of solar - Bring on the sun!

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