Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: 2002 Lance 811 Rebuild - Update 09.30.2020- PROJECT COMPLETE
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 > 2002 Lance 811 Rebuild - Update 09.30.2020- PROJECT COMPLETE

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BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 07/28/20 11:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

**UPDATE 07/28/2020**

Man, it's been HOT here! Got a bunch more done since the last update though, I keep picturing myself on the beach with my new rig!

I finished the framing on the cub side of the cab over, sweetie put in the insulation and it's ready for sheathing.

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Now to turn my attention to the back under the slide out...the whole thing was rotten to where it wasn't worth it to even try to save it with Rot Doctor, easier to just pull it out and replace it.

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Also had a leak in the back, I suspect from the tail light. It was easier to get to this from the inside rather than pull the fiberglass off the back:

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That plastic thing is the fishing rod storage that you access from a small hatch on the back wall. Had to get that out to get under the rest of the damaged sheathing and delaminated fiberglas

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This is the propane compartment:

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The factory put in a piece of angle steel that runs under the slideout opening and that also serves to anchor the two tie down points on that side:

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Framing back in the propane compartment

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Back wall repaired

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Finishing up on framing and insulation:

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I finally figured how all the parts and pieces of the propane compartment fit together. All this stuff was in a box when I got the camper.

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The previous owner cut a big section out of the plastic vapor liner to try and get at the rot where the RF jack was. I welded it back together so it's airtight and reinstalled

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What's interesting is that the liner itself forms the radius for the access door, there are no plastic corner radius guides like they had for the windows. What this means is that the propane liner has to go in before the sheathing goes on so it can serve as the guide for the router. This also means the liner won't come out after the sheathing is on, so triple check everything you need to do in there...

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I also used 1" roofing nails to secure the liner since my staples weren't heavy enough to secure the polyethylene plastic well enough.

Now the sheathing is completely done on the curb side:

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Also took a slight diversion and finished up new faucet and backsplash in the kitchen area.

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I installed a tee on the cold water line and used a refrigerator-type inline water filter. There's no room to mount a regular cartridge style filter, it's tight quarters under the sink.

Next up is the underside of the cabover, then we are ready for fiberglass!

* This post was edited 07/28/20 11:45am by BurbMan *


2015 Ram 3500 SRW 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab Long Box, Cummins diesel
2002 Lance 811 Slide-In Camper
SOLD: 2008 Terry 34' TT
SOLD: 2001 K2500LT 8.1L Suburban

Lance 811 Renovation Story!
Project Complete!
Maiden Voyage!


Kayteg1

California > Nevada

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Posted: 07/28/20 11:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I see you butt-joined the wide vertical piece about 1/2 the way.
This is crucial piece that will keep your cab-over from sagging, so that fix might bite you at the end.
I would replace it with solid 1-piece good quality lumber.
My Lance 1162 had steel in that place





BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 07/28/20 12:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did, and I did the same thing on the other side. My thinking is that as you apply vertical load at the front of the cabover, that wide piece is going to be in compression, not tension, as is that diagonal piece that comes into the base of the wide piece.

The top of the wide piece that was not rotted is very solid and glued tight. As long as it has a solidly glued piece to push against it should be OK. Gluing the new piece to the inside paneling and then gluing the outside to the whole thing should give it the lateral stability is needs and used to have.

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This Lance also had a piece of aluminum flashing running between that large vertical piece and the sheathing. Was too soft and flimsy to be structural so I didn't replace it.

Kayteg1

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Posted: 07/28/20 12:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The wide piece working with cantilever action will have pulling and bending forces.

Bert the Welder

Van. Island

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Posted: 07/28/20 07:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kayteg1 wrote:

The wide piece working with cantilever action will have pulling and bending forces.


Given the hinge point is pretty much at the base of that wide board, I'd have to agree. When force applied, driving or moving around in the bunk, it's going to be mostly upwards, with a bit of crush on that left side. But mostly pivoting clockwise. There is some weight being held there, but I think most of it is hanging from the roof. Hopefully and likely I'd bet, the ply/glue/lumber/glue/ply will hold.


"> 1998 GMC 2500, 10.5 Okanagan, My better/smarter half, George and Finnegan(APBT), all I need.


Bert the Welder

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Posted: 07/28/20 07:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That is some pile of work Burbman! Hat's off to ya. Those pocket screw seem a perfect match for this type work.

Mote

Hoosier State

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Posted: 07/29/20 06:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for keeping us updated on the progress. I love these rebuilds.
Not to much longer and you'll be able to start camping again.


2005 Dodge 3500
2001 Lance 1030
2006 Cougar 29RL


BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 08/03/20 08:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

UPDATE 08/03/2020
FILON TODAY!!!


Working through this heat and trying to get as much done in the evenings as I can. We finished up the framing and sheathing, so time to put the table saw away and sweep out the garage. I finally get to unwrap the 45' roll of Filon that's been sitting in the same spot since we brought it home in June.

I put some canvas drop cloths on the garage floor so the Filon wouldn't get scratched. It'll have plenty of time to get scratched by trees when we're camping, no need to accelerate that process...

It also looks like filon has a front and back. One side was bright white and the other was an off white. A little confusing at first but decided that the bright white side is the "good" side.

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I picked up these HF air shears to cut the sheet metal for the backsplash, but it turns out they work excellent on the filon too!

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I bought the filon from an RV supply place in Elkhart IN and they recommended this Bender's #618 contact cement because that's what the OEMs use. The instructions are VERY specific about the type of sprayer (only use a pressure pot), how it is applied, etc. The stuff is so flammable that they tell you to ground the can when you pour it....yikes!

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The adhesive sprays on red so you can see the coverage you're getting. Basically scuff up the back of the filon with 80-grit paper, spray the filon, spray the wood, wait about a minute and stick 'em together. The only challenge is that this stuff bonds on teh slightest contact...there is NO possibility to move or reposition the filon once it touches the camper.

Here I made a test coupon:

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So with 3 of us (thanks to DW and DD) were able to get the underside of the right wing and the right side done. Sorry no "in process" pics but it was all hands on deck. We flattened a large cardboard box and used that as an insulator between the filon and camper to prevent accidental contact. I started at the rear by the slide opening and as I moved forward with the J-roller, they would move the cardboard forward. Interesting stuff this #618, it's not tacky when you touch it, won't stick to your hands and won't stick to anything but itself.

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Next up is the lower front, bottom of the cabover and then the left side. The right wasn't bad because the factory had a seam at the edge of the slide opening, so the piece we were handling was only 10' long. On the left, the piece goes tip to tail, so will be about 16' and a LOT more challenging.

For now, hoping that my Ghetto Garage survives the 50 mph winds we are supposed to get from tropical storm Isaias!

Bedlam

PNW

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Posted: 08/03/20 09:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This process almost sounds like applying Formica tops using contact cement but more exacting. Thank you for documenting your work.


Chevy Sonic 1.8-Honda Passport C70B-Host Mammoth 11.5-Interstate Car Carrier 20-Joyner SandViper 250-Kawasaki Concours ZG1000-Paros 8' flatbed-Pelican Decker DLX 8.75-Ram 5500 HD-Tank Urban Touring 150SE-VW TransBuggy 1200


BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 08/03/20 09:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That's exactly what it's like, the big challenge is doing it vertically. If you could lay the camper on its side it would be easy. The secret is to over cut the filon and then trim. I aligned the top edge so it would run straight, then everything else gets trimmed. The window and cut outs started as a 1" hole in the middle of the opening. I drill those on the ground with a backer board. Once the filon is up, then I use the router with a flush trim bit to follow the outline of the opening. This is the same process that I used with the luan.

I rough cut the filon under the cabover about 1" long/wide, so the piece would be lighter and have room to trim. You would never get it to line up on multiple edges when installing.

The trimming doesn't have to exact since every corner gets a trim piece and I plan on wrapping the top seams in 4" Eternabond tape.

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