Do I need sway bar or equalizer?

[GravelRider]

I'm new to this, and am in the process of buying a 22 ft travel trailer with a dry weight off roughly 3300 lbs. I'm towing it with an F150 with a 9000 lb towing capacity. The dealer is asking if I want a sway bar or an equalizer. If these are needed and make for a vastly better experience, I'll pony up. But I worry they're not needed with this size trailer. What do you guys say?

[TomG2]

There are three things to try when experiencing that wormy squirmy sensation of an overloaded tow vehicle. One can experiment with hitches, tires, and suspension upgrades. They can get a more capable tow vehicle. A lighter trailer will make a big difference. The first experiment may work, the second two will work. Been there many times over the last forty years.

[Huntindog]

99.9999% of the time, seat belts are NOT NEEDED either. But that 0.0001% of the time they are, can save your life. They are very easy to use, and because of this are required by law to be used just about everywhere.

[CFerguson]

nickthehunter wrote:
If it was me, I would get a weight distribution hitch and a friction sway bar. I've been towing trailers for about 30 years, and every trailer I tow over 2500 - 3000lbs would have one if at all possible.

You can check them out at etrailer.com

^^^Best Answer^^^

I tow a <5k TT with a Tundra rated just under 10k for trailering. I ALWAYS use an Equalizer setup.

[jerem0621]

If it were me I would get one the hitch and at least one sway bar. I have a Pro Series round bar Weight Distribution system with the 550lb round rated bars. When we purchased our new camper a few weeks ago I knew I needed 1,000 lb bars.

I was about to order the replacement bars off of E-Trailer about the time camping world called me to come pick up the trailer. I had to scramble a bit but found that Harbor Freight had an entire WD system with 1,000 lb bars. It looked very much like my ProSeries.

I got my 20% off coupon and headed to Harbor Freight. I think I paid $180ish OTD for my hitch.

I was right, the “Haul Master” hitch is the EXACT same hitch as a round bar ProSeries hitch. The shanks are the same, the bolts are the same. The only difference is the HaulMaster bolts didn’t have thread locking compound on them. Something easily fixed.

I mean Weld for Weld the same.

Oh Camping World even set it up for free for me (Which, of course, I had to reset when I got home)

HaulMaster for the Win. I even picked up their cheap sway bars...which are exactly the same as my Older Husky sway bars. LOL.

Here is a pic for comparison



Also, the bars are interchangeable. That will be super handy when I set up my ProSeries head for my future car hauler. 550 lb bars to get the car 1,000 lb bars on the way home.

I hope this helps some.

Thanks

Jeremiah

[GravelRider]

It's a 2018 with the 2.7 L engine and 3.73 axle with factory tow package, including factory electronic brake controller.

[TomG2]

If you "think" you need a WD hitch for your setup, get one. Ford and GM engineers feel otherwise but I don't think any of them are on this forum. 1958 Buicks needed one for that weight trailer. A late model F-150 does not.

















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[Boomerweps]

I only traveled 200 miles to get mine in Ohio. With my 3166# dryweight, I was going to drive it home and see how it towed before deciding on a WDH. The dealer really wanted me to use one, even though I was well within specs without. Finally he offered me a used WDH at a great price, taken in trade for a heavier one in somebody's TT upgrade, free install. I'm glad I did. My 2008 Explorer really sagged without it.
With my 2019 F-150, I really don't need the WDH, even towed the TT home once without it when I lost one of the spring bars from a stupid mistake. Didn't even realize I lost it, guess the remaining one acted like a sway control? Anyways, I didn't want the uneven tension on everything from one bar and didn't use it for the 65 miles home from Erie.
However, I know the real difference it made with the smaller tow vehicle. So for the truck to have that locked in towing feeling and built in sway control for a more comfortable tow, I'll still use it.
Based on what little info you've listed I expect you have the factory tow package with either the 3.5EB or 5.0 engine with 3.55 axle if you have a current generation F150. Did you get the factory trailer brake controller or did you add your own?

[GravelRider]

Thanks for all the replies everyone.

[GravelRider]

I bought it from the dealer. Might be more expensive, but I'm doing a 900 mile turn and burn to pick it up, so I'd rather have it on that drive back.

[profdant139]

Just to add to the chorus, I have a very small trailer (just over 2000 lb), and I have a sway bar even though I have been told it is not necessary. Better safe than sorry. And if I had anything bigger, I'd have a WD setup.

I also load up my tongue weight to the recommended level. I've never had a sway problem, and I never want to see one, either. Those youtube videos are pretty scary -- sway can get out of control real fast.

Safe travels, and keep asking questions!! We were all newbies, once upon a time.

[Terryallan]

naturist wrote:
Which dealer, trailer or truck?

Just guessing, it is the trailer dealer, and it's likely you might not need either, given the truck capacity and the size of the trailer.

One important detail to stay on top of, regardless of whether you go for those parts, is tire pressure. A Pickup truck, empty, is going to handle best with lower tire pressures, particularly in the rear, than will be needed when you load it up. Too much air in the rear tires when empty makes them ride hard and bouncy. Load the truck up, however, and too little air will make the truck directionally unstable. It'll be squirrely and you might really need the entire roadway.

With a 3300 lb dry trailer, you are probably looking at 5,000 lbs or so loaded to go camping. This is well within the 9,000 lbs capacity for the truck, and adding the 500-600 lbs tongue weight to the back should be fine. But you will know for sure the first time a semi passes you on the interstate. If you need a sway bar, it'll be because the semi blows you all over the road. If you need a WDH, it'll be because the rear of the truck sags when you hook up the trailer.

My guess is that you won't need either. But you are the one who has to make the call.

Adding 500, or 600lb tongue weight will put him OVER the weight Carrying capacity of the receiver, and will require a WDH to get back in spec.

[Jebby14]

very similiar setup to what i have (see sig) id go a basic reese setup (used) and a friction sway bar. likely be under 300 bucks and only takes a few hours to set up. MUCH better towing experience. Dont buy from the dealer unless you can convince him to include it. It will be cheaper EVERYWHERE else.

[GravelRider]

Thanks everyone. I decided to just go with them. It really wasn't all that expensive, and I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

[shum02]

nickthehunter wrote:
If it was me, I would get a weight distribution hitch and a friction sway bar. I've been towing trailers for about 30 years, and every trailer I tow over 2500 - 3000lbs would have one if at all possible.

You can check them out at etrailer.com

x2

They are not that expensive and will greatly enhance your towing experience regardless of the trucks towing capacity.

I don't "need" one either but in a good wind on the wrong day you will be very thankful for it.