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 > Converting Dual Generator to Run off RV Quick Disconnects

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MikaMaKinly

Alberta

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Posted: 05/24/20 08:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I will be attempting over the next week with my new Firman WH02942 to run it off of my travel trailers quick disconnects.

I will post pics whether it succeeds or fails. I can't see it not working. 

I will be removing the actual regulator from the big blue "regulator" piece but I have to use it as it had an electrical lead that attaches to the generator and works like a throttle body from my understanding. From there I'll get a 10' hose on it and a quick connect to go to the rvs low pressure quick disconnects.

I don't think pressure will be an issue. But ya never know. On Propane my max is 2900W 2600W continous which should require a maximum of approximately 60 000BTUs out of the available roughly 200 000. Should be gtg. Furnace and AC don't run together usually.

What I won't do is run my 50 000btu fire pit at the same time as the generator off of the disconnects. I do believe the gen pulling max load with the furnace fridge and hw tank might be too much. I will test by turning on one more at a time until either it fails or everything miraculously works together. My plan is to switch to the onboard 1.8gal of gasoline while using my firepit if I need both simultaneously. Beauty of dual fuel machine.

Will post an update when complete.

Thermoguy

Graham, WA

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Posted: 05/26/20 01:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That seems like a good idea. I could run it off my BBQ connection which is just on the other side of the trailer from my power inlet. The only issue is that I personally like to move the generator as far away from the trailer as possible out in the woods. A 10' hose doesn't seem like far enough away. Looking forward to some pictures.

beemerphile1

Ohio

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Posted: 05/26/20 08:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What pressure does the generator use? If higher than 11" it won't work.


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RickLight

Washington

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Posted: 05/26/20 09:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A casual question to my propane service guy garnered a derisive answer.

I don't know much about it, but these generators have an extra stage that apparently lowers the pressure well below 11".

Anybody know more??


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MikaMaKinly

Alberta

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Posted: 05/27/20 11:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Very happy to report it works perfectly! 

I've turned on the furnace HW tank and stove while running the generator under heavy load (microwave) and it is PURRRFECT!

Just remove your first stage regulator from your propane Generators regulator, get a line on it with a quick connect and you're all set! 

For everyone asking how much pressure the gen needs I have no clue, I'm a simple F-18 technician with a passion for camping..

I'll get a video uploaded to youtube and share the link soon as I can't upload it to the forum. 

You tube Link:

https://youtu.be/o6K-mcbLndc

Much better link:

https://youtu.be/TKGZE8xPqDw

Happy Camping Yall!

Mika

* This post was last edited 05/28/20 10:06am by MikaMaKinly *   View edit history

MikaMaKinly

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Posted: 05/28/20 10:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

YouTube Link

mobeewan

Hampton, Va

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Posted: 05/28/20 11:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just to keep in mind. Different colored acme nuts that screw onto a propane cylinder have different BTU ratings.

Black typically found on BBQ grills allows for propane flow to support 70000 BTU.

Green typically used on trailer pigtails allows for propane flow to support 200,000 BTU. As long as your total BTU requirement for the generator, furnace, stove, water heater, fire pit and fridge are less than 200,000, you should be good to go. Otherwise, you might need to step up to a red acme nut and you might need a different regulator.

Red typically allows for propane flow to support 400,000 BTU. The only time I've ever seen the red ones in use was on a Papa John's trailer that had six 40 lb propane cylinders mounted on the tongue. All six were connected in pairs flowing through 3 regulators to supply propane for the pizza ovens inside.

* This post was edited 05/28/20 11:18pm by mobeewan *

Dusty R

Charlotte Michigan 48813

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Posted: 05/29/20 07:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use quick connects on air hoses from my air compressor and it is not uncommon for them to leak a little.
Therefore I've often wondered if L.P. quick connects ever leak ?

MikaMaKinly

Alberta

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Posted: 05/29/20 08:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Theres always the possibility of a leak with any connection. Use proper tape and check each connection you make with a proper leak detector fluid. I can guarantee every connection I have is solid as can be and zero leak from the disconnect. I wouldn't accept any loss of fuel.

NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 05/29/20 09:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good job Mike.

Jut as an FYI, the blue “regulator” device is not really to regulate the LP pressure. That is being handled by the regulator at your LP cylinders. It should be adjusted to maintain about 11” of water column pressure, and I try to adjust it while it’s regulating one of its larger loads.

There are two safety items that every Propane or natural gas powered engine needs. One is a positive fuel cut or shutoff solenoid that is held open electrically. If power to the solenoid fails, it closes. It appears the blue device at the end of the LP hose functions as the fuel cut solenoid. It also appears to have a diaphragm as part of it, which is probably to sense the LP pressure coming from the cylinder. I suspect it needs to sense a minimum amount of pressure on both the tank side and the generator side (In other words, no leaks) before it allows the solenoid to remain open.

The second item is a device that only allows the fuel to flow into the intake manifold while it’s running. That device is usually referred to as a “zero governor” or a “demand regulator”. It’s strictly an on/off device that only opens when certain preconditions exist. In the case of your generator, the controller must sense that the engine crankshaft is rotating.

On many LP powered generators, sensing that the engine is running is purely mechanical, by means of a demand regulator that can sense vacuum in the engine intake manifold. Yours appears to be controlling the demand regulator electrically. The schematic for your generator shows a second fuel solenoid under the main covers close to the engine, and I suspect that functions as the demand regulator, that only opens when crankshaft rotation is sensed.

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* This post was edited 05/29/20 10:21am by NRALIFR *


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