Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Black Tank Valve Replacement
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Bill/Diana

Southeastern Pennsylvania

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Posted: 05/29/20 02:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It seems every 2 years I need to replace the valve on the black tank because it become very difficult to pull. What am I doing wrong that causes this to happen?


Bill & Diana

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2oldman

New Mexico

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Posted: 05/29/20 02:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm not sure, so I direct you to a few youtube posts.

MDKMDK

Canada

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Posted: 05/29/20 02:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Try reducing fibre in diet, and increase Omega 3 fish/krill oil.


Mike.
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ernie1

Sacramento,California,USA

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Posted: 05/29/20 03:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a similar problem repeatedly until I found out that as I would change the seals or sometimes the entire valves, I would lube the seals and surfaces with vaseline or plumbers grease. This was recommended by the manufacturers and people on various sites. This was the problem: petroleum products will degrade rubber type products making them soft and spongy. In my case, the seals were swelling and would cause it to drag as the valves were being used. Now I only use silicone products like plumbers grease that is SILICONE based and not petroleum based. Have not had trouble for years since.

LadyRVer

Florida

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Posted: 05/29/20 07:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I spray the rod on pull handle with silicone spray every couple of months. Makes a big difference.

MDKMDK

Canada

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Posted: 05/29/20 07:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

How do you store the RV? Valves open or closed? After I dump and rinse the tanks before storage for any length of time, I close the valves and add a liberal dose of RV antifreeze, in the gray and black tanks, so that the valves and seals will be lubricated while the RV is sitting. It's the propylene glycol in the A/F that keeps the seals lubed. I've used it for over a decade with no problems. Valves will stick with lack of use, but once you pull/dump them a couple of times, they usually free up.

Bill/Diana

Southeastern Pennsylvania

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Posted: 05/30/20 02:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks folks for you input, ideas and suggestions. I'll use a combination of all that you have said.

RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Posted: 05/30/20 06:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The seals in your waste tank valves are NOT RUBBER they are Buna-N. I install grease zerks on my valves years ago with NO SWELLING. I use the same grease that I lubricate my chassis with and the valves still work like new.

Richard


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MDKMDK

Canada

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Posted: 05/30/20 07:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Buna-N is another name for nitrile rubber.
https://www.applerubber.com/hot-topics-f........ion-of-a-nitrile-buna-n-rubber-compound/

Rvpapa

Alberta , Can.

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Posted: 05/30/20 08:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One way that works for us that I do about once every couple of months.
Dump tank; dump a five gallon bucket of water through toilet, close dump valve and pour in about a pint of cheap vegetable cooking oil (canola) and then wait a few minutes to let the oil float on the surface of the water that remains. Next go out and work the valve open and closed as rapidly as you can. Valve gate will pick up enough oil after five or six open and closes to make a surprising difference. Works for us for a good twenty years so far.
Art.

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