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 > Rebuild ideas and thoughts

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RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Posted: 06/03/20 06:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When Chevy add TBI around 1990 they actually decreased performance and increased exhaust manifold cracking problems. In an effort to meet EPA requirements, chevy backed off (forum won't let me say reta
rded) the timing and the fuel was still burning as it passed the exhaust valve. If you had a tuned ear, you could actually hear the engine struggling with the late timing.
If you want a nice running 454, go the 96 or later port injected engine and electronic transmission. 290 HP hot rod.

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theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 06/03/20 07:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you are doing a major engine overhaul, get a roller camshaft. It will save some fuel.

cappi1976

Texas

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Posted: 06/03/20 10:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So to answer some of the questions first ??
- More details on the Motorhome, it is roughly about a 40-foot class A. Has/Had a 1990 7.4L, Carb, and TH400 (need to verify this one though)
- The TBI I thought about it, but then I thought that for the price and workability as far as keeping it somewhat ease to work on, I am going to be sticking with the carburetor. I want to try and keep as much computer stuff out of the engine, powertrain system.
- Spray foam is my ideal on the way I am thinking about going, I also plan on doing a very thin layer before the spray foam just for the airtight water proofing idea. I don’t mind the cold or heat too much, it’s the drafts that get me. As far as the electrical I will probably be leaving it on the outside in a bulkhead type system. I don’t want to rip into the walls if I have to go chasing electrical shorts or running something new.
- This is a project that I do plan on taking out as soon as I get the power train system redone. I will post pictures of the reasons why I had to pull the engine at a certain point. But I am a mechanic by trade and usually people tell me that what I am thinking isn’t going to work, only makes me put it into play just to see if they are right. Usually I can figure something out.
- The house side I am pushing as a second priority, I am doing the engine work myself as this will save lots of money. I like to touch everything and try and give it a once over, sometimes can mean trouble but often I just want to make sure it is up to my standard. The house side I am fairly confident in that rebuild part as I got some people that owe me favors and usually, I can find items for really cheap or free.
- The weight side is a worried factor as I have thoughts of adding a pusher axle but then again, I would have to find this on a really good deal.
- I know I will not recover what I put into this, I enjoy doing projects like this, regardless if I had a new one compared to this one, I am not too confident with the quality of mass production. If I could find just a chassis, I would like to do one of them. I want to do the rebuild to my customization in trying to make this last forever. Hell, if all else fails I’ll just rip the home part off and turn it into a really big pickup truck. ??
- Punishment…lol…just like putting a cherry picker on loose gravel and dirt. NOTE: have rubber wheel replacement and maybe motorized boom. That became interesting, but it got done. I enjoy the blood sweat and tears. My timeline is roughly 6-8 months, with 2 months for powertrain system. I’m retired military and do have access to junkyard for military vehicle and parts.
- Camshaft I am going to upgrade this. The exhaust manifold is going to be gone and done, along with those stupid air pipes. But I do need to look into what bolt to use for the manifold.
So today I finally ripped the engine out, was a big project, probably broke some stuff but it came through the front, sort of easily. Just the conditions I was working in wasn’t really idea for the situation. I will be posting pics of the engine and reasons why I had to go this way first. The transmission will be next on my to do list, I will probably just replace seals and gaskets on that part as it isn’t a hard project to take out. One of the things that is boggling me is that I don’t remember removing the trans mount or any bolts, it looks like it is there but when I pulled the engine the transmission was not attached to anything. I will be looking into this later.

theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 06/04/20 07:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cappi1976 wrote:


- Spray foam is my ideal on the way I am thinking about going, I also plan on doing a very thin layer before the spray foam just for the airtight water proofing idea.

Closed cell spray foam IS a good water/moisture barrier if properly applied.

The problem with spray foam, is that it expands uncontrollably. Not enough in some areas and WAY TOO MUCH in most. This requires that you cut it back before installing the interior finish wall board.

cappi1976 wrote:


- The house side I am fairly confident in that rebuild part as I got some people that owe me favors and usually, I can find items for really cheap or free.

So questionable quality ??!!!!

cappi1976 wrote:


But I do need to look into what bolt to use for the manifold.

Inconel - This is a special grade of stainless steel designed specifically to withstand high temperatures and corrosion. Used in the jet engines and space craft industry and by some custom header manufacturers.

Open your wallet VERY WIDE !

* This post was edited 06/04/20 07:10am by theoldwizard1 *

cappi1976

Texas

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Posted: 06/04/20 10:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

@theoldwizard1 I still am in debates on which type of spray foam will be applied (open or closed) as this has both ups and downs. At the moment, just depending on which I can find a good deal. Appx (40x8x2)/wall so 640 board feet x 3 is roughly 1920 board feet, plus the back wall, just going to add it up to about 2500 ish which is equivalent to about $3k. So I would need to find a deal to make this one work.
Lol quality may be iffy but after I have seen some of the stuff that comes from the factory I know my quality and their quality are completely different. Instance taking out the engine and removing the front, I don't even know if there is a plan for all of them or they just go at it and support it with metal and self tap screws. I will make sure that it is secure and able to last years, but has to be lite enough to shed some pounds. But yeah quality is a priority, just depending on how much. It isn't like I am expecting it to survive if it rolled over or something like that, I am looking at (NOTE) school bus structures and maybe ripping the frame up on one of those [emoticon] I haven't really sean none of them just falling apart. But yes my friends will be able to give me hand in locating parts and helping me, then I will probably go back and double-check.
Funny that you mentioned the Inconel bolts and jet engines. I know someone on that side of the military too, maybe I get in contact with him and see what there may be scraps of. JET ENGINE TURBO, (Mach 1), [emoticon] Oh that would be funny, dangerous but funny.

So on the brighter side, it is very hot in TX. Got the upper part torn apart of the block and going to be finishing it up tomorrow, hopefully. Just going to get some loan a tools from the part store. After that will look into what I will need and want to start pricing that out.

Good New part two, I got a new set of airbags, Air Lift 88370, for the motorhome for $150.

It almost time for the Motorhome to come out of its shell while I get ready to remove the sides and roof, this part is going to be interesting. As of now, it is sitting under a great big 100-foot tarp that will be reused for a pool cover afterward maybe.

So here is a question that I haven't seen floating around here, has anyone yanked their windshield themselves, or is that a job for the pro. I did them before on semi's and broke a few because it didn't want to sit right, but of course, videos make it seem sooo easy. I would try and mod that but that is a job I may not want to take on. We will see as time goes on and I get to that point, I might get a hair up my butt and say screw it, smoke a couple of cigs and get that bad boy out.

But I'm going to be hopefully ordering my engine kit tomorrow/maybe finish get the trans down and checking the pan on that part. Also will be checking the torque convertor at the same time. But so far most have been on schedule, just try to get motivate to do most of it.

hoosiermark

Batesville ,Indiana

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Posted: 06/05/20 04:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like you want to tinker more then camp. If that is so, go for it. You will spend months doing everything and never really get to enjoy the RV but if you enjoy a project then it will be great. I have dealt with sports cars for decades. It took a long time for me to realize it was cheaper and a whole lot less time and work to buy one that was in great shape rather then a project. Rvs in good shape always need tinkering so you can get your handyman fix either way. Personally I would buy a nice one and if I needed, get a part time job that would pay for it. It will take a lot less hours to work for others and pay for it then it will for you to buy cheap and work on it and buy parts for it. But bottom line is do what makes you happy. Enjoy.

rgatijnet1

Florida

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Posted: 06/05/20 05:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What makes you think you need a full 3" of spray foam insulation just because the wall is that thick? Have you ever held a scalding hot cup of coffee in a styrofoam cup that is only 1/16" thick? The facts are that by using the closed cell spray foam 1" will probably take care of your insulation needs in any temperatures that you may encounter. Use more if you want to but it is a waste of money.

cappi1976

Texas

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Posted: 06/06/20 12:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

@hoosiermark, Yes more of a tinker toy, but do want to get it on the road after it is done. I am sure that when you built cars you realized at some points of the build on figuring out what the manufacture was thinking at the time they put it together. And there was certain times that probably you had caught something that really wasn't going to make it that much longer. Even with the newer Motorhomes, the quality of the build is good somewhat, but not perfect by a long shot. Yes, I am sure that it probably would be a lot less labor and not as fun to just go get a new one, (I know that if someone is getting rid of one) there is always the hidden truth, no history and end the long run might cost you just as much if not more to get it right. With this project yeah it going to take a while, but I will know this puppy inside and out, and the short cuts I take, well that would be on me if it breaks.
@rgatijnet1 - You make a very valid point on the spray foam, thank you. I understand that the reason that spray foam is the ideal is to make it airtight to keep all the drafts out while also providing that insulation barrier. I will probably go with that plan and look into the closed-cell. Lol, this is why I started this is to get ideas and brainstorm. Thanks.

So my engine teardown is complete. The good news is the block is so far so good as far as I can see. I do have the 4 bolt main, yay, that's a plus. Now for the bad, so while I was trying to get the crank to turn something was binding really bad, and did not want to force anything at this point. Long story short is the piston on #3 is collapsed enough to make the connecting rod float freely. Going to clean this up tomorrow to make sure that the connecting rod is ok. The camshaft is done, bearings all around will need to be replaced regardless, but was expecting to gouges and such in the walls, but looks good so far, going to bring my big light up there tomorrow then get it ready to bathe for further inspection. The valves, oh my, don't even know how or why the thing still ran for. Exhaust valves on Cyl 5 & 6 were burnt, all but two exhaust valves were stuck, stuck enough where my little 2 pounder didn't budge it, so the 3 lb worked after a few taps. I didn't want to do it this way but I have to check the valve seats and guides after the bath.
So here was where I was going with the what were they thinking part.
- Exhaust manifolds, not sure if many saw how much space the air tubes take up, but it is a lot. (going to load up pics)
- Timing, well it was time for the best to be changed, did you know that thing had a plastic rubber-type setup. (see pics, please don't mind my work shoes)
- So looking at the crank will be looking further after the bath, but regardless I have to check the block for scaring, there are so many burs on that thing, look like someone being lazy and didn't clean it up before install. The are a few nicks on the crank but hopefully, all will check good.
- This goes the same with the block, there is so much that needs to be cleaned up and smoothed out from the factory, seems like a disaster ready to happen. I'm not looking to make this into a race car, but do want or need it to have some power, and as far as reliability that is why I want to do it, I trust myself more than paying someone to do it.
- I am going to try and figure out how to upload pics, if anyone see's anything that may be suspect please let me know. And yes on assembly the shop will be a lot cleaner than it is.

cappi1976

Texas

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Posted: 06/06/20 01:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EVTpxzXkJkVP8Gzq5 I posted a link to all pics and included the ones that I want to point out.

[image]
Restriction

[image]
Yuck

[image]
After pulling valves [emoticon]

[image]
Need upgrade don't know why it is rubber but the chain was loose and needing replaced anyways.

[image]
This is the main reason I had to pull the engine had to go fishing for a bunch of stuff.

[image]
This thing made me bleed, so much slag from factory.

Please look at the album link and let me know, I will more than likely try and find new/used parts if possible. We will see. I will start to check the body of the motorhome next week, hopefully it won't be as bad/expensive...yeah right. But according to the guy I bought it from it ran very good last time he had it on the road.

2bzy2c

California

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Posted: 06/06/20 11:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you considered a short block? Might be a time and money saver.


My advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

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