Surge protector either a Progessive Industries HW-50C (Hardwired) or the Southwire (Formerly TRC) equivlent WITH remote readout (both cases)
ON the PI set the "Power on delay" to LONG.
As others have said a good 50-30 Dogbone (Some call it 30-50 but I go with RV to Power outlet) I like the Camco Power pull type personally but that's because they are easier to unplug more than any advantage.. Also either a 50-15 or a 30-15 for battery maintenance at home.
What can you run on on 15/20, 30, 50
You have big ticket items they include
Air conditioner
Microwave
(Please do not use space heaters less you add HD wiring and outlets (12 ga aND 15/20 amp outlets with wire bent around a well tightened screw)
Washer/Dryer if you have one
Electric cooking appliances and coffee pots
Water heater
And if the batteries are low.. THE CONVERTER (Mine can suck a full 10-11 amps)
Small ticket items
The converter if batteries are full
TV, Radio. Computers. Fans (Plug in kind)
FRide at 350-400 is a "medium"
20 amp ONE big ticket if batteries are full (15 amp you might not be able to Air Condition)
30 amp ONE A/C and one other big ticket or two big ticket Hint follows
50 amp.. ALL YOU CAN EAT.
On 30 you may want to run an Absorption cooling unit on Gas (I do not)
Also I swapped my water heater element .. The OEM was 1500 watt at 120 volt (ABOUT 12.5 Amp) the new one is 1500 watt at 240 volt.. Since it is just a big resistor that makes it about 375 watts or 3.125 amps at 120 volt. A "Medium" like the fridge.
NOTE>. I had the tank out for other reasons when I did the swap (Swapped in a new tank at the same time)
The result is fewer breaker trips on 30 amp sites.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times