Brake fluid flush

[classctioga73]

Anyone have any videos tutorials or websites that show how to do brake fluid flush on a 2000 Ford e- 450 super duty triton V 10 engine. Please help

[azdryheat]

There's too much riding on brakes. If you've never done it before have someone who has show you in person.

[Gjac]

The way I change my brake fluid on is to jack up the front end and just gravity bleed starting with the furthest brake from the MC which is the right rear ending at the left front. I suck the old fluid out of the MC first with a turkey baster first and fill with clean fluid, insert a clear plastic tube on the bleeder and let the old fluid drain into a glass jar when clean fluid comes out you close bleeder and go to the next one. Clean fluid must be added to the MC so no air gets in brake lines. I do this every 30k miles along with the transmission fluid change.

[travisc]

I use the motive product on my e450 and jeeps works perfect

[Grit_dog]

time2roll wrote:
Consider a motive products pressure bleeder.

Probably need the 2 or 3 tab ford adapter.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits

Get 2 or 3 quarts of Dot 4 and start with the longest run until it runs clear. I recommend Valvoline or Ford fluid.

^What he said.
I've never sprung for one of these, but I may. Makes brake bleeding or flushing almost enjoyable. Especially if you've done it the old fashioned way.

[Home_Skillet]

time2roll wrote:
Consider a motive products pressure bleeder.

Probably need the 2 or 3 tab ford adapter.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits

Get 2 or 3 quarts of Dot 4 and start with the longest run until it runs clear. I recommend Valvoline or Ford fluid.

Absolutely, 100% use this flusher.
I have one and did mine by myself.
The Ford fluid is the best, has a very high wet boiling point.

Also, would be a good time to replace the front rubber brake hoses. They tend to delaminate internally, causing the brake calipers to "stick".

[time2roll]

Consider a motive products pressure bleeder.

Probably need the 2 or 3 tab ford adapter.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits

Get 2 or 3 quarts of Dot 4 and start with the longest run until it runs clear. I recommend Valvoline or Ford fluid.

[theoldwizard1]

There are dozens of videos on bleeding brakes on YouTube.

The day before, spray all brake bleeders with your favorite penetrating fluid. Do this at least twice and again before you start.

Get a piece of vinyl hose that fits snugly on the bleeder screw. Find a small spring clamp to secure it. Get an empty 1/2 liter plastic bottle. Drill a hole in the cap that is a tight fit for the hose. Put an inch or two of brake fluid in the bottom and push the hose through the cap down into this fluid.

Make sure the bottle stays upright and the hose below the level of the fluid AT ALL TIMES. Some people wire the bottle to some part of the vehicle to make sure it stays upright.

Top off the fluid in the master cylinder with fresh DOT 3 fluid. Open the bleeder screw, no more than 1/2 turn. (If you break the bleeder screw, you will be calling a tow truck to haul you to somewhere that can replace a caliper. $$$$ !) Gravity will force the fluid from the master cylinder into your catch bottle. After 5 or 10 minutes, the level in the bottle will be up about 1 or 2 inches. Close the bleeder.

Refill master with fresh DOT 3 fluid and move on to the next bleeder. You might have to do all 4 bleeders twice to get clean fluid out of each bleeder.

[Lwiddis]

X2, Charlie.

[garyemunson]

Once I got one of these, I've never gone back. Fast and sure. The smaller bottle is a "hamster bottle" that sits upside down on the master cylinder to help keep it filled. As noted above you DO NOT want to run the master cylinder dry and get air in the anti-lock system. The bleeder hooks to your air hose and sucks the fluid out of the calipers. Much faster than any other way. The bleeder bottle is translucent so you can see when the fluid starts running clear. Those who regularly flush their brake system when recommended rarely ever have to replace calipers or master cylinder.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Pneumatic-Vacuum-Auto-Brake-Clutch-Bleeder-Bleeding-Fluid-Change-Tool-Kit/352275642062?epid=11014536723&hash=item520543b6ce:g:pYcAAOSwv7ldl-gj

[carringb]

Charlie D. wrote:
Make sure you NEVER let the master cylinder goes dry during bleeding.

^This.

Bleeding is just like doing a car. But if you get air in the ABS pump, it's VERY difficult to get out. So I recommend doing this one with a friend!

[Charlie_D_]

Make sure you NEVER let the master cylinder goes dry during bleeding.

[Grit_dog]

Flushing the brake fluid is just bleeding the brakes over and over again until you’ve pulled new fluid through.
Typical brake bleeding procedures apply.
Either pressure bleed or vacuum bleed. Not vehicle specific.

[fourthclassC]

Howdy, I don't have any tutorials but I can tell ya how I'm gonna do mine on my 2003 Winnie with rear disc brakes. Start by sucking all the fluid out of both sides of the master with a turkey baster or suitible tool or mitivac pump. Replace it with new fluid. with a helper, pump the brake pedal an hold it. Open the right rear caliper bleeder screw (put some pb blaster on all bleeders ahead of time) allow it to come out till it comes out clear. May take a couple times. No pumping while bleeder open. Move to left rear then right front then finally left front. Making sure the master cylinder dosen't run dry. Need to check after each caliper is completed.