Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Dometic RM2652 5A fuse keeps blowing
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 > Dometic RM2652 5A fuse keeps blowing

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itsjustjer

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 06/10/20 04:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have an older RM2652 (product number: 921 14 40-02 if that helps). It will run on gas just fine, but when I try to run it on AC the 5A fuse that leads to the AC heating element will blow. I’m trying to determine if I need to replace the circuit board or the heating element. Or possibly something else? If the parts weren’t so costly I’d just shotgun it and replace both components, but I need to be deliberate about what I replace with this. Thanks in advance for any help!

BFL13

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Posted: 06/10/20 04:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Unplug the 120v input cord from the circuit board and check that cord. It may be shorted somewhere. Check where the green wire from it is screwed to the chassis by the plug to the board.

Un-do the 120v element from the board and check that. You can run the element directly using a made-up adapter by-passing the board to see if it heats up ok. All the board does is provide a thermostat to control the heat element to be on and off.


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itsjustjer

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 06/10/20 04:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just to update: I checked the heating element and it’s 37.4 ohms. The spec in the manual says 44. Am I likely too far out of spec?

stickdog

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Posted: 06/10/20 05:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

itsjustjer wrote:

Just to update: I checked the heating element and it’s 37.4 ohms. The spec in the manual says 44. Am I likely too far out of spec?


I would say so.


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Posted: 06/10/20 05:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If unplugging the heating element stops the short...no?

Then unplug the refrigerator then unplug the harness to the heating element

Old-Biscuit

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Posted: 06/10/20 06:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

5A Fuse is for the 120VAC circuit on the circcuit bard and for the heater eleent

Unplyg the element leads ....replace the 5A fuse and turn fridge on
Fuse Blows.....circuit board
Fuse doesn't blow........element (plug the leads back onto circuit board and see if the fuse blows)


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enblethen

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Posted: 06/10/20 07:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did you use an Ohm meter to check element to ground?
Relay on circuit board could be problem. You could pull circuit board. If relay is the issue there will be burnt area on back of board.
Resistance is not that far off. That much variation could be in different meters.
If you change out circuit board, I recommend a Dinosaur Electronics version.
Problem is between the 120 volt fuse and the element not in cord.


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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 06/10/20 07:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

Did you use an Ohm meter to check element to ground?
Relay on circuit board could be problem. You could pull circuit board. If relay is the issue there will be burnt area on back of board.
Resistance is not that far off. That much variation could be in different meters.
If you change out circuit board, I recommend a Dinosaur Electronics version.
Problem is between the 120 volt fuse and the element not in cord.



Is that because if it were the cord it would pop the breaker for the receptacle the fridge is plugged into?

enblethen

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Posted: 06/10/20 07:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes, if it was in cord or input area of circuit board before the fuse, it would trip the breaker.
Yes, to BFL13, also

* This post was edited 06/10/20 09:08pm by enblethen *

itsjustjer

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 06/10/20 08:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I unplugged the heating element and turned the fridge back on. The fuse did not blow and the volt meter showed 123v going to the fuse and the connection point for the heating element. That would mean the heating element is the problem, right?

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