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Ventline Stove Hood Fan Blades

morley
Explorer
Explorer
I have a Ventline Model PH-21-24BC Stove hood in my fiver. The fan as most stove hood fans is very noisy and rattly although it still works well.
I saw somewhere in an older post that changing from a 3 blade fan to a fan with more blades runs much quieter although with less air movement.
Is there any truth to this? Any other thoughts about stopping or lessening the noise from the stove hood fan?
2008 Topaz F254SS 26 ft.
2009 Chevy Silverado, 2500HD, Duramax, Allison Tranny, 4x4, EC
250 watt solar panel system, BlueSky controller and remote
9 REPLIES 9

morley
Explorer
Explorer
I changed out my bathroom El Cheapo exhaust fan for a Hengs Vortex 2 fan. It was a very simple swap out and installation and so far works great.
Just for curiosity I tried the fan blade from the old El Cheapo bathroom fan on the stove hood exhaust fan and yes with the more blades the fan runs much quieter than ever before. When I get the PWM speed control installed it should be really good and run even quieter at a slower speed.
I also removed the very cheap rattly plastic damper at the same time it appeared to be doing absolutely nothing but making more noise. Will install screening over the vent if there is any indication of bugs getting in.
2008 Topaz F254SS 26 ft.
2009 Chevy Silverado, 2500HD, Duramax, Allison Tranny, 4x4, EC
250 watt solar panel system, BlueSky controller and remote

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
I have several of the Papst fans, and have great respect for their design and manufacture.

While sold as new, they are obviously pulled from some sort of equipment as there is dust inside once one removes the E clip on the hub and has a look inside, also some scratches on the fan body from whomever removed them from whatever they were in. They have huge dual NMB sealed ball bearings, similar to the size on skateboards/roller skates. Their accumulated hours upto that point are unknown, but likely a tiny fraction of how much longer the fan will run.


They draw about 0.56 amps at 12.8v and move a respectable amount of air at that voltage.

They are rated upto 30V.

Above 28v the amp draw starts rising exponentially and it does not get all that much faster. The 283 cfm rating is likely at 24v but I've seen it speed at 242cfm @ 24v too. There is a pretty big speed difference between 24 and 28 volts. Not really sure which spec to believe, but it does move a lot of air, especially for the current consumed and noise made.

CFM ratings are a bit misleading, as they measure the velocity of the air and multiply it times the diameter of the fan. where they measure that velocity can have huge differences in final number, and CFM readings are taken in a no restriction environment. When restricted, a high cfm fan might have aerodynamically stalled fan blades, making noise and little air flow.

I've not seen any static pressure rating of this fan.

Minimum possible rotational speed is ~7.33v, +/- 0.1v but it needs closer to 8v in order to start spinning on its own, this latter number depends on temperature. At minimum speed the fan is super quiet, more of a slight clicking, and one can follow an individual fan blade as it rotates with their eyes. Amp draw through a buck boost converter is right around the 0.1 amp range @7.33v. The 3 Papst fans I have, the minimum rotational speed varied slightly as did the noise made at minimum speed.

I now power mine from a 10 amp buck boost converter which has a current control potentiometer, and limit current to 2.42 amps which limits voltage to ~29v

The fan blades are well balanced with little improvement possible. The air output is fairly column like, not spreading far and wide like some computer fans with 4 hotspots of flow between the hub supports.

Resistance behind the fan blades does not greatly reduce flow and greatly increase noise, like it does with many fans.

Getting some sort of finger protection in front of or behind impeller can be an is$ue depending on application. They sell grilles for its unique hole spacing.

I had one failure of a Papst, but I was trying a new 5 amp buck boost converter which fried, then when i bypassed it the Papst released some magic smoke. Avoid 5 amp buck/boost converters, in my experience, I only found one good one, but unintentionally smoked it.

There are 5 or 6 wires inside the jacket, red and black are obvious. One of the others could be for PWM speed control. IDK.

I've not had good luck sending a PWM signal on the 4th wire with PWM speed control on a 4 wire PWM fan. Lots of fan failures in short periods of time.

If one wants to feed a PWM speed control signal on red and black power feed wires, make sure the PWM motor speed controller you buy says 21kHZ or higher, or the fan will whine annoyingly at reduced speeds, to anyone without well aged ears.

If one wants to get the full speed from the 24v Papst fan they need to be able to feed it upto 30 volts. I've run mine, unintentionally to about 33v for over a half hour. That was before I had a buck boost converter with current limiting potentiometer. The hub was warm, not hot.

One can turn the voltage pot upto 28v on such a device and use the current limiting pot to control fan speed too, but I find this is less efficient and harder to dial in a low speed.

I have a friend who is using a 28v boost converter then plans on using a PWM speed controller on its output. if he cant figure out which wire, if any is the PWM wire for speed control. I do not like this approach, but at 28v his papst was using about 0.15 less amps than mine through a buck boost converter at 28v output. Could be measurement error too, as we are 2k miles apart.

Blacklane
Explorer
Explorer
RV Net Link

I posted this several years ago. It might give you some ideas.

morley
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everyone for your great ideas and coments.
2008 Topaz F254SS 26 ft.
2009 Chevy Silverado, 2500HD, Duramax, Allison Tranny, 4x4, EC
250 watt solar panel system, BlueSky controller and remote

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
Add a PWM and have complete control of fan speeds. They are available on Ebay for not much money.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Blowers-Fans/DC-Fans/283-CFM-12-28-Volt-DC-Papst-6224N17HT-...


At 12-volts, this runs at half speed which won't suck the spaghetti out of the pot.

It's also very quiet, bushless, with dual ball bearings. Made 100% in Germany.

Quicksilver's fans are Pabst. EZ removal to clean fan blades. Zero vibration

Original factory fans are landfill qualified before they leave the factory.

corvettekent
Explorer
Explorer
I replaced mine with a 6" computer fan, it is very quite.
2022 Silverado 3500 High Country CC/LB, SRW, L5P. B&W Companion Hitch with pucks. Hadley air horns.

2004 32' Carriage 5th wheel. 860 watts of solar MPPT, two SOK 206 ah LiFePO4 batteries. Samlex 2,000 watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Replace existing fan and motor with a computer case fan.

Choose one that has a low RPM rating and a decent CFM and noise rating.

Vent fans are not efficient power wise, make one heck of a racket and move very little air for the noise and current draw, in other words highly inefficient.

Computer case fans use a more efficient brushless design motor which uses less current and if you pick one with low enough speed and enougn blades will move a lot of air quietly.

You can find them in the 1200 RPM-3000 RPM range 50-100CFM at noise levels of 50 DB or less which is more air than the existing fan.. Try to avoid the 4K RPM and up, they get pretty noisy..

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
I do not know if that will help or not but you can put a very small resistance in line to lower the voltage to the motor a bit... however 0.1 Ohm Resistors may be a touch hard to find.

In days of old cars had a "Fan Speed Control" it was a porcelin frame with a coil of wire and a wiper on it attached to a knob.. This is what I'd suggest using.. Adjust for quieter operation but still moving air.

Something like this
Though I'm not sure you need that much resistance.
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